Coding the i3

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i3ATL - Good call! I just went down to the garage and tried it, taking care to make sure my foot was off the brake.

With my foot off the brake, CLICK-CLICK shuts down both the car and the media system immediately.

Thanks for the tip. I'll be using it every day from now on...or at least until I can find the coding register for that shutdown delay. :roll:
 
i3atl said:
WoodlandHills said:
I find that I have to have my seat belt unbuckled to get the car to shut off with the two presses.

No, the seat belt is irrelevant with regard to this. Just be sure your foot is off the brake.
I have also found the two presses to be unreliable. I believe there needs to be a pause of half second or so before the second press, and the second press must be held in for nearly half a second. Ditto about not having the foot on the break during the second press, but the brake makes no difference on the first press. That is, a quick tap/tap on the button usually does not work for me, even with strong, full-in taps, but a deliberate press/off/press/off does.
 
i3Alan said:
i3atl said:
WoodlandHills said:
I find that I have to have my seat belt unbuckled to get the car to shut off with the two presses.

No, the seat belt is irrelevant with regard to this. Just be sure your foot is off the brake.
I have also found the two presses to be unreliable. I believe there needs to be a pause of half second or so before the second press, and the second press must be held in for nearly half a second. Ditto about not having the foot on the break during the second press, but the brake makes no difference on the first press. That is, a quick tap/tap on the button usually does not work for me, even with strong, full-in taps, but a deliberate press/off/press/off does.

That doesn't make it unreliable, just means there's a certain way you have to do it. It always works for me, but I doubt I've ever tried a rapid "double-click".
 
I double-tap my other BMW, and it's worked fine for nearly 4-years...guess I was just used to the sequence timing...it always has worked for me.

But, if you lock the vehicle, that shuts things down, too. It's only when you exit and leave it unlocked where things like the radio stay on for a delay (around 10-minutes or so). You can turn the radio back on if you press just the radio on/off/volume switch, too, if you weren't aware of it...the car doesn't have to be turned on first. Again, it only stays on for a period, but that can be handy.
 
A few days ago I coded the "Enable Hold State-Of-Charge" setting. Not only does it work like a champ, but the screen this unlocks on the iDrive displays the SOC in a digital format (xxx.x %). This solves another one of my pet peeves, the 4-Idiot-Blocks default display of SOC remaining. Using the 4 Idiot Blocks, it's difficult to determine the difference between, say 14% and 18%.

Once the SOC screen is stored to a number key on the media system, a key-press will turn the ReX on or off without hunting through the menus.

As I live in a mountainous area, this alone has dramatically increased the usefulness of the car and has significantly reduced my range anxiety. I discovered through testing that my i3 can only achieve a top speed of 9 mph up an 18% grade (28 mph on a 4% grade) when running on ReX alone / SOC at 0%, so I never want the SOC to get below about 20%.
 
Hi!

Due to this thread I have bought the interface cable and also got some DVDs with program files.
Should I now use the DVDs or should I use the software from the link in the tutorial?

I have no DVD drive on my notebook so I would copy the software on a USB stick. Is that possible? I think I wouldn't need all the date on the DVDs, do I? I guess I'd only need the main software and anything else for the i3. Right or not?

Is it also true that I have to pay some money to use it? I read something about a security token...

I'm from Austria and so I do not understand everything in the tutorial, that's the reason for my questions. Hope you can help me a bit!

@TMSsilent: Do you have a photo of your new display?
 
I just tried to unzip the files from the DVDs and have a problem with one file which is damaged. Could anyone upload the file 50.3_PSdZData_Full.part24 for me?

Thanks!
 
I'm confused by the security token as well. I've seen it said that it was needed but when I read the BMW Coding - Beginners Guide.PDF, it never mentions using it. Is it still needed?
 
Ruffles - yes, you need a token. You can poke around a bit in the settings without a token if you're just curious, but you can't save your changes without it.
 
I coded the parameter that sets the point when the REX comes on to 12% (BKOMBI -> 3000 Anzeige_Konfiguration, 4E -> SOC_HOLD_POSITION
Werte=18). The indicator on the GOM shows what looks like 12%, but when actually driving the car the REX doesn't start up until 6%. Has anyone else tested this setting?

--Steve
 
It looks like the link to the PSdZData 53.5 is no longer working. I've got my cable and everything else and would really love to enable the controllable Rex this weekend. Could anyone point me to a working link for the PSdZData?

Thanks!
 
Question here. I wanted to turn on the hold mode but when I went to proper menu there was no activ option as doc file suggests. There were 3 options:
niht_activ
phev
rex

I've changed it to rex, the menu appeared, so I think it's all good but I thought that the doc file should be updated (where to report that?) if the software changed.
 
Will coding my car allow me to enable the self-steering in the active cruise control? I have Park Assist so I know it can steer itself under certain conditions. This would be a useful feature in rush hour traffic and one I incorrectly thought was available in NA.
 
WoodlandHills said:
Will coding my car allow me to enable the self-steering in the active cruise control? I have Park Assist so I know it can steer itself under certain conditions. This would be a useful feature in rush hour traffic and one I incorrectly thought was available in NA.

Not at this point. It looks like there may be additional hardware required for that to work.
 
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