Charging 80 or 100%

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I've never understood the "board" part. I assume that the original German is bordcomputer. Maybe there's a better translation of "bord". Might it be "onboard computer"?
Onboard Computer would be a better translation. In german, computer is "Rechner". I guess the name of the button got lost in translation. I understand the phrase "board computer" does not exist in the english language or is it grammarwise incorrect?
 
The Vgate iCar 2 WiFi adapter is a simple WiFi base station in that one's smartphone could connect to it so that the mi3 (iOS) or electrified (Android) app could display the current charge level. I doubt that it has sufficient power to be able to connect to it from within one's home, but I've never tested its range.

I don't know how the WiFi base station that provides WiFi access in your driveway would be able to connect to a Vgate iCar 2 WiFi adapter.

U.S. i3's sound the burglar alarm when an OBD adapter remains plugged in for some period of time (not sure how long) after an i3 is shut down. This can be turned off via coding, but it would make an i3 slightly less secure if someone could plug in an OBD adapter without the driver knowing.
My (US) i3 (2017) always has the adapter plugged in and I didn’t recode anything for it. No alarm has ever sounded.
 
Onboard Computer would be a better translation. In german, computer is "Rechner". I guess the name of the button got lost in translation. I understand the phrase "board computer" does not exist in the english language or is it grammarwise incorrect?
If I ever heard someone using the phrase "board computer" in English -- which I haven't -- but if I did, I'd guess maybe it was one of those little rotating paper disc calculator thingies, in this case made specifically for carpentry . . . or maybe a device to calculate the cost of a meal plan, e.g. at a school dormitory cafeteria.

Grammatically it's fine, but just not a phrase I associated with anything.
 
My (US) i3 (2017) always has the adapter plugged in and I didn’t recode anything for it. No alarm has ever sounded.
Interesting!

I participated in a state pilot project to assess the possibility of replacing the state gasoline tax with a charge based on distance driven and maybe a vehicles weight. The technology used an OBD dongle to transmit the distance driven via a cellular radio in the dongle. The burglar alarm on our 2014 U.S. i3 was triggered during the evening of the first day during which it had been plugged in.

I found a setting in BimmerCode that would disable the triggering of the burglar alarm when an OBD dongle was left plugged in when an i3 had been parked for more than a couple of hours:

FZD (Roof Function Center)
3002->OBD-Alarm: set to inactive

Changing this setting prevented the alarm from being triggered, but the company providing the technology correctly decided that their solution needed to be plug-and-play with no requirement for i3 owners to code their i3's. Also, disabling this alarm could make an i3 less secure should some bad guy plug in an OBD dongle that would report information about an i3.

Maybe someone has coded your i3 to disable this alarm.
 
Interesting!

I participated in a state pilot project to assess the possibility of replacing the state gasoline tax with a charge based on distance driven and maybe a vehicles weight. The technology used an OBD dongle to transmit the distance driven via a cellular radio in the dongle.
Brrrr..... no offence but.... Big Brother tech :unsure:
 
Brrrr..... no offence but.... Big Brother tech :unsure:
I'd rather pay a road tax based on the distance I drove in a lightweight i3 than paying $50 per year as I currently do regardless of the distance I drive and the weight of of my vehicle. Fuel taxes aren't covering road repair costs and will continue decreasing as more EV's, PHEV's, and HEV's are sold, so a fair change is needed. Charging EV owners a flat charge isn't fair.

An OBD dongle could be designed to report only the distance driven once per day with no location or other information transmitted. Alternatively, submitting a photo of the odometer monthly could work although odometers can be hacked to display less distance than actually driven.
 
I have a 2017 I3 94ah in Australia. We have recently lost remote visibility of the car's state if charge due to 3G cellular network shutdown.

Would the Vgate Icar2 wifi adaptor above allow me to connect to our home wifi in the driveway and provide remote charge state visibility... At least while chatting at home? Are there other options?
I have a 2017 in Australia too and bought it just after BMW shut down 3G access prematurely (Telstra 3G is still running).

I found I couldn't even add my car to the BMW app as it tells me about the shut down but then says you will still be able to connect via bluetooth or USB so maybe check if bluetooth works while near the car and look into bluetooth range extenders?
 
I wasn't aware the BMW app could connect with Bluetooth. And I can't find any way to do so, even in the car with the car "on". Have you found any way to connect with Bluetooth?

I am also buying the "recommended" OBD2 device for the "Electrified" app...

And also looking into OVMS as an option.

All options have some pros and cons... Let me know if you have and experience to share...
 
No I haven't been able to connect with bluetooth, it said you can in the app but I figured it wasn't working because I couldn't add my vehicle to begin with.

I was hoping to be able to at least watch charge % since I can't set a limit but I might just look into getting a charger with a timer.
 
The app has our vehicle added from when everything worked properly. It knows our VIN etc, but still no way I can find to connect via Bluetooth. Like you, I would like to monitor SOC before and curing charging without sitting in the vehicle.

FYI, we have a Smart breaker on our charge circuit so we can set timers and monitor KwH added (via internet) with a standard charger. That works ok, but we would still like to monitor SOC.
 
Nice, didn't know about those but I'm hesitant to get any electrical work done as new regulations in the west require we downgrade our 80A main switch / circuit breaker to 32A for some reason.
 
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Interesting. I am in the west too. I've just had my main breaker upgraded from 32 to 63. I think the new regulation limits to 63 rather than 32... My main fuse is now 80 amis, but they now limit the breaker to 63.... As I understand it.... I think the change was from max 80 amp breaker to max 63 amp breaker.
 
Yeah 63 single phase, 32 3 phase.. I have 80A 3 phase but I don't want to risk dropping to 32 and being a limitation down the track, apparently the earlier version of these new regs were worse and people were compensated max $250 to switch it out again.
 
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Interesting. I am in the west too. I've just had my main breaker upgraded from 32 to 63. I think the new regulation limits to 63 rather than 32... My main fuse is now 80 amis, but they now limit the breaker to 63.... As I understand it.... I think the change was from max 80 amp breaker to max 63 amp breaker.
Richard; In the USA, it is a standard practice to only use 80% of total amps for each circuit. So a 20-amp circuit should have maximum usage of 16-amps; 30-amp circuit = 24-amps, 80-amp circuit = 64-amps.

Thanks,

John
 
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