Can you recommend a new/recertified compressor? Self-install?

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BigKetchup

Active member
Joined
May 8, 2020
Messages
25
So my compressor died and now the dealership wants $4k to reinstall a new one. I'd rather get a recertified compressor instead and install it myself if possible. Has anyone had experience doing this?

I drive a 2018 i3 BEV.
 
Currently I'm facing a problem with the A/C of my 2018 i3 94 Ah (with heat pump), too. It does not cool. Because I'm using the A/C "once a year", a valve might be stuck. Now I've bought a OBDII BT device and the Bimmerlink App, once it is delivered I try to find out which component is faulty. However, in your case, what makes you confident that the compressor is faulty?
 
The AC system on the i3 I beleive works every day all year around, it's part of the cooling/heating system for the battery pack
 
The AC system on the i3 I beleive works every day all year around, it's part of the cooling/heating system for the battery pack
I dont't think so, the AC cools only when cooling is needed and you will notice. Batterypacks don't heat up that easily in normal conditions. The pack also does not get heated (not by the AC), only when preconditioning in winter.
 
The AC system on the i3 I beleive works every day all year around, it's part of the cooling/heating system for the battery pack
I have started using the MI3 app with a bluetooth dongle to take a look at my battery cell temperatures this summer when temps hit 100 deg F. I wish I could place an amp meter around the compressor supply wire to measure amperage to see when it engages automatically vs engaged by me.

But Dutch i3 is right it only turns on when needed. Maybe you meant to say it's available to cool all year round, when needed.
 
I pe-emptively swapped out the AC compressor on my 2014 BEV last year, I found an independent BMW guy to do the install for me.

I watched the process, it didn't seem very complicated, but the coolant in the system has special needs! There is an oil that needs to be added and a knowledgable mechanic with the right gear and supplies might be the best way to do it.

I have done my share of complicated stuff on old cars in the past, but the more I read about the various things to take into account on this car, I decided to let an experienced hand take care of it.

I found the part at getBMWparts for about $1500 USD and the mechanic charged me $360 for the work (3 hrs @ $120.hr). less than $2000 USD all in.
 
Currently I'm facing a problem with the A/C of my 2018 i3 94 Ah (with heat pump), too. It does not cool. Because I'm using the A/C "once a year", a valve might be stuck. Now I've bought a OBDII BT device and the Bimmerlink App, once it is delivered I try to find out which component is faulty. However, in your case, what makes you confident that the compressor is faulty?
could you provide update of the case please ?
My I3 is not heating or producing cold, error in shutoff valve 4 for the heat pump apprear periodically, but the system procedure for it says - if you hear the sound of the valve, then it is working :( The mechanic that look at the car is experianced with BMW I3, but not with the heatpump system itself.
I'm waiting next week this valve to be replaced and to see will this solve the issue.
 
It was possible to remove all errors from the malfunction storage except one: AC underfilling. I checked the system pressure which should be 89 psi @ 80 F with R1234yF when AC is OFF, but was only 62 psi. So the underfilling is confirmed.
 
It was possible to remove all errors from the malfunction storage except one: AC underfilling. I checked the system pressure which should be 89 psi @ 80 F with R1234yF when AC is OFF, but was only 62 psi. So the underfilling is confirmed
It was possible to remove all errors from the malfunction storage except one: AC underfilling. I checked the system pressure which should be 89 psi @ 80 F with R1234yF when AC is OFF, but was only 62 psi. So the underfilling is confirmed.
Cooling back to normal?
 
Found a shop where they offered me to remove the remaining R1234yF and Sanden SP-A2 compressor oil, then vacuum the circuit and refill again. But in the quotation they offered PAG-46 as compressor oil. Which is much cheaper as the SP-A2, but it's forbidden to use it in the i3. So I have to go back to them and negotiate the price respectively if they would accept the SP-A2 as BFE. So the AC is this inop
 
I dont't think so, the AC cools only when cooling is needed and you will notice. Batterypacks don't heat up that easily in normal conditions. The pack also does not get heated (not by the AC), only when preconditioning in winter.
The battery pack warms up easily to 25c and then to max 40c if a high load. The AC refrigerant circuit only cools that is true - but the heating is caused by withdrawing charge - the heater wires do work up to 10c for preconditioning. The main problem is keeping the cells cool during use and charging. I.e. in the 25c range instead of 40c.

It’s a shared circuit.
 

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could you provide update of the case please ?
My I3 is not heating or producing cold, error in shutoff valve 4 for the heat pump apprear periodically, but the system procedure for it says - if you hear the sound of the valve, then it is working :( The mechanic that look at the car is experianced with BMW I3, but not with the heatpump system itself.
I'm waiting next week this valve to be replaced and to see will this solve the issue.
update to the issue of my car I3 BEV 2019 : After replacing Refrigerant Shut-Off Valve 4 (part number 64119292573) the air conditioner works normally.
It was added 50 ml freon type 1234YF, I own the car for 2 years and this is the first maintanance of the air cond.



 
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