Clunking noise when going over bumps

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frictioncircle said:
If you do this motion slowly, can you feel a disturbance?

Placing hands at nine and three (or twelve and six when on a lift) and trying to shear the wheel back and forth is how to determine that the hub has a failed bearing.

Yes even when doing the motion slowly... Exactly the same as toalmar's videos on Vimeo above. Now the shock absorber has been changed again and the movement and noise have gone. Maybe the spare part originally changed was defective. Will keep this post updated.
 
Hello!

Noticed also the clunking noise in front at last, and bought already new shock absorber... while waiting it started to check the instructions..

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/i01-i3-hat/repair-manuals/31-front-axle-front-suspension/31-33-spring-with-mounting/1VnY1Z4NYI

:oops: I´m not sure I will even try to make the change even it is not hard to do (just changed both shock dust rubbers)

Any thoughs? Is it possible to make the preload tougher to prevent that annoying play ??
 
just bringing this up to the top. Dealing with similar noise. Just tried lubricating the sway bar at the bushing. Finger's crossed
I had this on my 14 Rex and it turned out to be a bad front left shock bushing. I noticed it within a week of buying the car so it was fixed under the 60 day warranty.
 
I had this on my 14 Rex and it turned out to be a bad front left shock bushing. I noticed it within a week of buying the car so it was fixed under the 60 day warranty.
Can you please elaborate on the issue with the bushing? Was it the rubber? My vehicle is a 2021. The strut caps are $130 OEM or $70 aftermarket. I don't mind changing them but don't want to waste money. I can do the work myself.
 
Can you please elaborate on the issue with the bushing? Was it the rubber? My vehicle is a 2021. The strut caps are $130 OEM or $70 aftermarket. I don't mind changing them but don't want to waste money. I can do the work myself.
I don't have details. I felt and heard the clunking, discussed it with the owner of the dealership, and his service department performed the repair and the clunk went away. It was around the top of the shock tower. It could have been the rubber, but it felt more like the mount itself. I wish I knew more, but I don't.
 
For other owners that experience a knocking/clunking sound, before going off and spending money at the dealer check this out that could potentially be a quick and easy fix.

This could be the hoses coming from the cooling systems in the frunk that run down and alongside the inside wheel well. They can knock against the wheel well protector causing a knocking sound when going over bumps and such. Video explaining this here.
 
For other owners that experience a knocking/clunking sound, before going off and spending money at the dealer check this out that could potentially be a quick and easy fix.

This could be the hoses coming from the cooling systems in the frunk that run down and alongside the inside wheel well. They can knock against the wheel well protector causing a knocking sound when going over bumps and such. Video explaining this here.
In 2021, BMW changed the hose alignment so they are no longer close to each other. Also, they modified the wheel liner with two indents for the hoses which used to rub. I placed a rubber buffer there and it still persists.
 
I don't know if this is the same issue as some of the links have expired, does anyone know what this noise is? It's a dull squeak on the left hand side, heard when driving over speed bumps. The wishbone arms have just been replaced (on both sides), but the sound returned within a couple of days.

 
that almost sounds like a shock absorber that is leaking or rubbing. Try pushing down on the right front of the car when everything is off and it's parked. If the noise occurs then it may be time for shock replacement.
 
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