BMW I3S. Fully charged range?

[Lowbourne1]

Hi, I charge my car fully and it should do 190 miles but this morning it was fully charged and the range was 131 miles. Can I explain this because I’ve never seen 190 miles on the dash?

 

[mojo]

That's pretty much normal for a 2022 car in current UK winter conditions. Most of the UK had overnight temperatures that were close to zero or subzero last night, and that alone will affect range. Range displayed is also affected by the conditions in which you have recently been driving.

 

[Lowbourne1]

That's pretty much normal for a 2022 car in current UK winter conditions. Most of the UK had overnight temperatures that were close to zero or subzero last night, and that alone will affect range. Range displayed is also affected by the conditions in which you have recently been driving.

Ah ok, thanks for this info

 

[alohart]

Hi, I charge my car fully and it should do 190 miles but this morning it was fully charged and the range was 131 miles. Can I explain this because I’ve never seen 190 miles on the dash?

The attached photo is after fully charging our 2021 i3 BEV (not a slightly less efficient i3S). I don't routinely charge to 100% but when I do, the range estimate is always >200 miles (the attached photo shows the highest estimated range I have seen in our i3). I have averaged 5.5 mi/kWh over 11 years of i3 ownership.

• I always drive in Eco Pro mode with Eco Pro climate control turned off (the range estimate would probably be higher with it on). If I drove in Comfort mode, the range estimate would be considerably lower. I know that many i3 drivers enjoy instant acceleration but not the resulting short rear tire lifetime.

• I live in the tropics where climate control isn't needed much of the time and the battery pack temperature is always in its ideal temperature range. If our i3 experienced cold weather, its estimated range would be considerably lower.

• I typically drive ~25% at 55 mph, ~50% at 45 mph, and the remainder at slower urban stop and go speeds (speed kills … but also range). If I commuted at high highway speeds, the estimated range would be considerably lower.

• I maintain tire inflation pressures 7 psi above the recommended pressures which increases range and ride roughness, reduces the tires' rolling resistance and traction, reduces the probability of wheel damage when driving over a deep pothole, and hasn't caused uneven tire wear. If I maintained the recommended inflation pressure or didn't pay close attention to the pressure, the estimated range would be slightly lower. The average decrease in inflation pressure in our i3 over 3 months is ~5 psi. Many tires of all vehicles are underinflated due to inattention by their owners.

• I almost always allow adaptive cruise control to control acceleration (boring) while manually starting deceleration by coasting usually followed by regenerative braking and, only when necessary, friction braking. Coasting is the most efficient way to decelerate.

 

[UpNorth]

The attached photo is after fully charging our 2021 i3 BEV (not a slightly less efficient i3S). I don't routinely charge to 100% but when I do, the range estimate is always >200 miles (the attached photo shows the highest estimated range I have seen in our i3). I have averaged 5.5 mi/kWh over 11 years of i3 ownership.

• I always drive in Eco Pro mode with Eco Pro climate control turned off (the range estimate would probably be higher with it on). If I drove in Comfort mode, the range estimate would be considerably lower. I know that many i3 drivers enjoy instant acceleration but not the resulting short rear tire lifetime.

• I live in the tropics where climate control isn't needed much of the time and the battery pack temperature is always in its ideal temperature range. If our i3 experienced cold weather, its estimated range would be considerably lower.

• I typically drive ~25% at 55 mph, ~50% at 45 mph, and the remainder at slower urban stop and go speeds (speed kills … but also range). If I commuted at high highway speeds, the estimated range would be considerably lower.

• I maintain tire inflation pressures 7 psi above the recommended pressures which increases range and ride roughness, reduces the tires' rolling resistance and traction, reduces the probability of wheel damage when driving over a deep pothole, and hasn't caused uneven tire wear. If I maintained the recommended inflation pressure or didn't pay close attention to the pressure, the estimated range would be slightly lower. The average decrease in inflation pressure in our i3 over 3 months is ~5 psi. Many tires of all vehicles are underinflated due to inattention by their owners.

• I almost always allow adaptive cruise control to control acceleration (boring) while manually starting deceleration by coasting usually followed by regenerative braking and, only when necessary, friction braking. Coasting is the most efficient way to decelerate.

View attachment 2104

233 miles of predicted range?! That’s crazy!

 

[alohart]

233 miles of predicted range?! That’s crazy!

It's also an outlier. 200-210 miles is typical which is still pretty crazy for an EV with a 153 mile E.P.A. combined range estimate. The i3 can be very efficient under our ideal EV driving conditions that most people can't experience.

 

[Lowbourne1]

The attached photo is after fully charging our 2021 i3 BEV (not a slightly less efficient i3S). I don't routinely charge to 100% but when I do, the range estimate is always >200 miles (the attached photo shows the highest estimated range I have seen in our i3). I have averaged 5.5 mi/kWh over 11 years of i3 ownership.

• I always drive in Eco Pro mode with Eco Pro climate control turned off (the range estimate would probably be higher with it on). If I drove in Comfort mode, the range estimate would be considerably lower. I know that many i3 drivers enjoy instant acceleration but not the resulting short rear tire lifetime.

• I live in the tropics where climate control isn't needed much of the time and the battery pack temperature is always in its ideal temperature range. If our i3 experienced cold weather, its estimated range would be considerably lower.

• I typically drive ~25% at 55 mph, ~50% at 45 mph, and the remainder at slower urban stop and go speeds (speed kills … but also range). If I commuted at high highway speeds, the estimated range would be considerably lower.

• I maintain tire inflation pressures 7 psi above the recommended pressures which increases range and ride roughness, reduces the tires' rolling resistance and traction, reduces the probability of wheel damage when driving over a deep pothole, and hasn't caused uneven tire wear. If I maintained the recommended inflation pressure or didn't pay close attention to the pressure, the estimated range would be slightly lower. The average decrease in inflation pressure in our i3 over 3 months is ~5 psi. Many tires of all vehicles are underinflated due to inattention by their owners.

• I almost always allow adaptive cruise control to control acceleration (boring) while manually starting deceleration by coasting usually followed by regenerative braking and, only when necessary, friction braking. Coasting is the most efficient way to decelerate.

View attachment 2104

Wow, that’s an awesome range, thanks for the info, appreciated!

 

[Whereitis]

This is why I'd only buy a Rex. Yes I only get 60 e-miles in summer and 40 e-miles in winter, but then I go another 80 on gas, and can top off with 2 gallons whenever I need to. No chance of being stranded with a dead HV battery ever! I don't think the charging infrastructure for pure e-cars will be ready for prime time for another 10 years (at least in the USA). FYI I only run in Comfort mode.

 

[RicardoF1RST]

The attached photo is after fully charging our 2021 i3 BEV (not a slightly less efficient i3S). I don't routinely charge to 100% but when I do, the range estimate is always >200 miles (the attached photo shows the highest estimated range I have seen in our i3). I have averaged 5.5 mi/kWh over 11 years of i3 ownership.

• I always drive in Eco Pro mode with Eco Pro climate control turned off (the range estimate would probably be higher with it on). If I drove in Comfort mode, the range estimate would be considerably lower. I know that many i3 drivers enjoy instant acceleration but not the resulting short rear tire lifetime.

• I live in the tropics where climate control isn't needed much of the time and the battery pack temperature is always in its ideal temperature range. If our i3 experienced cold weather, its estimated range would be considerably lower.

• I typically drive ~25% at 55 mph, ~50% at 45 mph, and the remainder at slower urban stop and go speeds (speed kills … but also range). If I commuted at high highway speeds, the estimated range would be considerably lower.

• I maintain tire inflation pressures 7 psi above the recommended pressures which increases range and ride roughness, reduces the tires' rolling resistance and traction, reduces the probability of wheel damage when driving over a deep pothole, and hasn't caused uneven tire wear. If I maintained the recommended inflation pressure or didn't pay close attention to the pressure, the estimated range would be slightly lower. The average decrease in inflation pressure in our i3 over 3 months is ~5 psi. Many tires of all vehicles are underinflated due to inattention by their owners.

• I almost always allow adaptive cruise control to control acceleration (boring) while manually starting deceleration by coasting usually followed by regenerative braking and, only when necessary, friction braking. Coasting is the most efficient way to decelerate.

View attachment 2104

How are you coasting, using neutral throttle application or by actually knocking into 'N'?

Plus, can you explain how coasting is more efficient than regeneration?

Just curious.

 

[RicardoF1RST]

This is why I'd only buy a Rex. Yes I only get 60 e-miles in summer and 40 e-miles in winter, but then I go another 80 on gas, and can top off with 2 gallons whenever I need to. No chance of being stranded with a dead HV battery ever! I don't think the charging infrastructure for pure e-cars will be ready for prime time for another 10 years (at least in the USA).

Whatever your vehicle, whatever your fuel, whatever the distance - running out of energy supply is simply a mistake, solved by a phone call or a walk to a working phone. Trick is not to make the mistake in the first place, and why I'd only buy a BEV. The best thing (for me) about EV's is never having to queue whilst watching the attendant make coffee - bliss.

 

[kd7iwp]

How are you coasting, using neutral throttle application or by actually knocking into 'N'?

Plus, can you explain how coasting is more efficient than regeneration?

Just curious.

You can put in N or just let off the throttle partially, same thing, as long as the energy meter in the instrument cluster is right in the middle.

Coasting is likely going to save you a negligible, unnoticeable amount of charge. Whenever you're charging/discharging your battery there is a little bit of energy lost through the electronics, right? The general idea is to start coasting from far enough back that you come to a stop without using brakes or regenerating. This way you didn't lose any energy due to transferring electrons to the battery and losing a few as heat. In reality this only works in two scenarios:
1. You know you absolutely need to come to a stop or slow to a minimum speed
2. There isn't anyone behind you (they probably won't like how long it takes you to slow down and will flash their lights)

Even in an ICE vehicle this applies because the only time they use no fuel is when you let completely off the throttle and the momentum of the vehicle is raising the engine speed above idle. As long as momentum keeps the engine spinning it doesn't use fuel. Though with ICE if you put in neutral you are now using fuel to keep the engine idling.

 

[alohart]

How are you coasting, using neutral throttle application or by actually knocking into 'N'?

Neutral power pedal position: no regen or propulsive power, just coasting. That's probably equivalent to shifting to 'N'. I was sort of surprised that when in 'N', pressing the brake pedal initiates regenerative braking. However, this makes sense as well.

Plus, can you explain how coasting is more efficient than regeneration?

@kd7iwp explained.

No energy conversion is 100% efficient with some of the energy being converted to waste heat. The 3-phase AC output of the propulsion motor in alternator mode (regen) must be converted to DC power to charge the battery pack. I don't know how efficient that conversion is, so I don't know whether this would be noticeable in terms of driving efficiency. Charging an i3 battery pack with single-phase AC power is 92% efficient at best (30 A @ 240 V) and 84% efficient at worst (6 A @ 120 V) according to measurements made by the Idaho National Laboratory (U.S.). Propulsion motor output is 3-phase, not single phase, and its voltage is higher, so it isn't exactly the same situation, but I doubt that its efficiency is much different.

I might have never coasted all the way to a stop for reasons that @kd7iwp explained. An i3 on low rolling resistance tires can coast for a long distance even on a level road, but much of that distance would be at speeds less than the speed limit which wouldn't thrill following drivers. However, I frequently coast down declines rather than using regen to control my speed if doing so is safe and not likely to result in a speeding ticket.

 

[ksnax]

If I recall correctly, regen in the i3 is about 87% efficient - which is fairly typical for EVs. Obviously, coasting to a stop is 13% more efficient than that - which doesn't seem like very low hanging fruit for a lower range pack in practice without pissing a lot of people off. The non-LRR tires on my car shift that the other direction.