Which Home Charging Station Do You use?

[TomMoloughney]

Hi All,

I know many here have asked about which home charging stations are the best. I've done some reviews on various EVSEs and posted them here in the past. I just did another of the JuiceBox Pro 40, so I wanted to put the link here for anyone interested.

Also, please comment on this thread which EVSE you use for your i3, and what you like and dislike about it. This will help newbies decide which one they should choose!

https://bmwi3.blogspot.com/2018/04/ev-charging-product-review-update.html

Thanks!

 

[jadnashuanh]

I have a Clipper Creek 30A unit (before they bumped it to 32A). It's been working fine. I liked the idea that it was designed and built in the USA. At the time, the JuiceBox stuff had not achieved UL approvals. I couldn't scrounge enough panel power to go to their 50 (40A) unit...it was a stretch for the 40 (32A).

 

[alohart]

We have a 2014 JuiceBox kit. It was rated at 60 A, but many familiar with its components felt that passing 60 A would be unsafe. Fortunately, our i3 is limited to ~30 A, so we aren't pushing its limits.

This kit offered options like a tiny LCD that displays important charging information, a wireless remote, and WiFi. I chose the LCD and wireless remote options but not the WiFi option because our apartment parking space is far out of range of our WiFi base station. I can use the wireless remote to change the maximum charging current in 1 A increments, to set weekday and weekend charge starting and ending times, and to set the current date and time.

However, the most important feature for me, a retired software engineer, is its open-source software written in the C language which I know and its programming cable that allows me to load new software versions that I have written. I have installed software that better reflects our use of our JuiceBox.

Unfortunately, these options are no longer available for EV owners who park outside of the range of their WiFi base stations, so I feel fortunate to have bought our JuiceBox when it was still available in kit form.

 

[tonorc]

I installed (hardwired) a Chargepoint 30 amp unit purchased from Amazon. It seems to be well made, and the Chargepoint app on my phone also works with the public Chargepoint chargers that I use. The home charger is connected through wifi, and can be scheduled. Each charging session including public charging with Chargepoint records kWh used and cost based on entered utility costs, which makes it easy to keep track of charging costs per month. It is attractive looking in my garage with cool lighting that changes depending on if it is charging or in standby mode.

 

[dmann]

We bought the Clipper Creek HCS-50 (40 amp) in January. It is the plug-in model which is handy if you move residences. It provides more current then the i3 will accept, but thought it would be good for the future. The unit is not fancy and doesn't have a lot of the options other EVSEs have, but the price was reasonable. It is on sale right now for $200 off. It has been working fine with no problems. Very simple to use.

 

[engineear]

Siemans. No issues. Has 2-8 hour start delay. Can set to lower power levels so not to "fast" charge too often, if you believe that can be a problem in the long term. Removable if I decide to relocate. Long cable easily reaches the I3 and 2017 Volt.

 

[Manualrain]

Siemens, although it delay a bit but it works perfectly

 

[jadnashuanh]

FWIW, even when wired in, most any EVSE could have a plug attached for a very small price should you change your mind down the road. But, IMHO, having an EVSE installed will probably add to the resale price of the home, especially in a few more years.

 

[Nyken]

I'm using a Juicebox Pro 40. I have a Nema 14-50 outlet installed in the garage, with the Juicebox Pro plugged into it.

I consider the Nema 14-50 outlet to be the 'standard' for EVSE equipment. You would need a good reason NOT to install a 14-50 outlet.

The Nema 14-50 and the wire from the electric panel in the basement it is sized for 50 amps. The i3 will consume 32 amps max while charging. And the Juicebox Pro is limited to 40 amps max.

With EVSE equipment, you need to size the circuit breaker in your electric panel to the car max charging rate of your car +25% (the +25% is needed to protect an electrical circuit which is on continuously, like a car charger or an electric heater). In the case of the i3, this is 32amps x 1.25 or 40 amps.

So in my case, even though I have 50amps max at the Nema 14-50 outlet, I have a 40amp circuit breaker protecting this equipment. In the future, if I get a car which could charge at 40amps, I'd simply swap out the 40 amp circuit breaker for a 50 amp breaker.

 

[jadnashuanh]

Since the CB is protecting the wiring, not the device, if the WIRING is sized for 50A, you could install a 50A breaker, but that would allow a maximum of a 40A EVSE to be placed on it.

When designed, a device does not generally rely on the CB at the panel for its protection...if there is some required internally, they'll install a fuse or other protection IN it...again, the CB at the panel is to prevent the wiring going TO the device is not overloaded and potentially overheat and burn in behind walls, etc. There may be exceptions where the installation instructions call for it to be a dedicated circuit for the device, though. When you put a plug on the wall, it's always best to ensure that the wiring can handle anything designed to plug into that receptacle. For whatever reason, though, the 'dryer plug' is on exception to the rule, but then, someone may buy a new one that needs more power and not know the wiring won't support it.

 

[TomMoloughney]

I'm using a Juicebox Pro 40. I have a Nema 14-50 outlet installed in the garage, with the Juicebox Pro plugged into it.

I consider the Nema 14-50 outlet to be the 'standard' for EVSE equipment. You would need a good reason NOT to install a 14-50 outlet.

The Nema 14-50 and the wire from the electric panel in the basement it is sized for 50 amps. The i3 will consume 32 amps max while charging. And the Juicebox Pro is limited to 40 amps max.

With EVSE equipment, you need to size the circuit breaker in your electric panel to the car max charging rate of your car +25% (the +25% is needed to protect an electrical circuit which is on continuously, like a car charger or an electric heater). In the case of the i3, this is 32amps x 1.25 or 40 amps.

So in my case, even though I have 50amps max at the Nema 14-50 outlet, I have a 40amp circuit breaker protecting this equipment. In the future, if I get a car which could charge at 40amps, I'd simply swap out the 40 amp circuit breaker for a 50 amp breaker.

It's not as simple as just upgrading the circuit breaker, and I assume you realize that. I just want to make sure other readers don't get the wrong idea. In addition to the new circuit breaker, the wiring has to be sized properly also. You'll need 8 gauge wiring for a continious 40 amp draw. A circuit that was wired for a 30 amp draw may have 10 gauge wiring, which is insufficient if you upgrade to a 40 amp EVSE.

 

[viking79]

I use a Clipper Creek HCS40 and a ChargePoint Home. Both are 32 amp (use 40 amp breakers with 8 gauge wiring). I generally charge the i3 with the Clipper Creek and the Clarity with the ChargePoint, just so I can track how much energy I am using for the Clarity. I have a basic power meter (hall effect sensor) hooked up for my HCS40 measuring power to that unit as well.

I love both chargers. The Clipper Creek for its simplicity and reliability and the ChargePoint for the wifi and logging. Both function excellently.

I prefer hardwired. Less prone to damage, less space. It is also easy to unhook and move just by shutting down breaker before disconnecting it.

 

[SSi3]

I have a FLO X5, which has been good, pricey but solid, outdoor-rated and wifi connected... happy with it!

 

[Nyken]

"It's not as simple as just upgrading the circuit breaker, and I assume you realize that. I just want to make sure other readers don't get the wrong idea. In addition to the new circuit breaker, the wiring has to be sized properly also. You'll need 8 gauge wiring for a continious 40 amp draw. A circuit that was wired for a 30 amp draw may have 10 gauge wiring, which is insufficient if you upgrade to a 40 amp EVSE."

I used 8g THHN wire for the 14-50 plug. It's good to 50amp, which when derated by 25%, means it will support a 40amp charger.

See this chart:
https://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts

I'm not an electrician, but I've always gone with the following order of presidence: equipment, plug, wire, breaker. First determine the equipment you want to power, then figure out which plug you'll need (there are a dozen different plugs available with different power/voltage ratings), then figure out the gauge of wire needed for the plug, and finally which circuit breaker you need to protect the wire. I started with the Juicebox 40 which needed 50amps.

 

[RonR]

I have a ChargePoint 30A (hardwired) EVSE. You can use the ChargePoint smartphone app to manage it. Well made, very happy with it.

Ron

 

[viking79]

"It's not as simple as just upgrading the circuit breaker, and I assume you realize that. I just want to make sure other readers don't get the wrong idea. In addition to the new circuit breaker, the wiring has to be sized properly also. You'll need 8 gauge wiring for a continious 40 amp draw. A circuit that was wired for a 30 amp draw may have 10 gauge wiring, which is insufficient if you upgrade to a 40 amp EVSE."

I used 8g THHN wire for the 14-50 plug. It's good to 50amp, which when derated by 25%, means it will support a 40amp charger.

See this chart:
https://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts

I'm not an electrician, but I've always gone with the following order of presidence: equipment, plug, wire, breaker. First determine the equipment you want to power, then figure out which plug you'll need (there are a dozen different plugs available with different power/voltage ratings), then figure out the gauge of wire needed for the plug, and finally which circuit breaker you need to protect the wire. I started with the Juicebox 40 which needed 50amps.

JuiceBox requires 6 AWG wire for 50 A, but maybe they allow smaller for THHN wire?

https://support.emotorwerks.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000294471-Wiring-Requirements-for-all-JuiceNet-EVSE-Installations?mobile_site=true

They word it weird, but NEC seems to show that 8 gauge THHN should be all right for that current.

Sorry, edited a couple times

 

[user 5025]

So I am considering the JuiceBox. Is there really any significant benefit to the Pro versus the Lite?

I have a 60 amp circuit and have wired up the NEMA 14-50 outlet... so now I just need to pick a charger. From what I read, they both have WiFi connectivity and the app can connect to them... the Pro stores data whereas the Lite doesn't? Doesn't seem like a huge difference to me.

 

[Nyken]

JuiceBox requires 6 AWG wire for 50 A, but maybe they allow smaller for THHN wire?

https://support.emotorwerks.com/hc/en-u ... _site=true

They word it weird, but NEC seems to show that 8 gauge THHN should be all right for that current.

NM-B wire has its amperage derated due to the extra heat generated by wires being bundled together. With THHN wire in a 1" conduit, they are spread apart more and are cooled by the air space between the wires.

I used 8# THHN wire, which are individual wires, running through 1" conduit. I could have used NM-B wire, which is a wire bundle, but I would have needed 6 gauge wire.

So, I guess JuiceBox suggests 6# wire assuming NM-B is used and the load (car charger) will be 40 amps continuous. If I didn't need conduit, I would have used NM wire which is easier to work with.

 

[Edszhi1]

You asked so I'll tell you. I bought a Schneider charging station EV230WS in December 2014 from Home Depot for $592. I have solar and I'm at "net zero" even with charging my first i3 (2014 REX) and replacement i3 (2020S). I just plug in the i3 and the Schneider charges the car. Life is good.

 

[cpallenjr]

I have a Grizzl-E Classic which is a basic charger without Wi-Fi or app. I set the current limit DIP switches for 32A to match the capacity of the i3. It’s plugged into a quality Hubbell NEMA 14-50 receptacle off of a sub panel on a 40A breaker. The sub panel was installed on a 50A breaker in my main panel with #6 wire. I also have a BMW branded Turbo Cord 220v-16A charger that came with my car and one of these days I’ll add a 20A circuit and the 6-20R receptacle for a backup. I’ve had the Grizzl-E for a year and it just works flawlessly. I don’t have and time of day pricing to deal with but if I did, the i3 can schedule and control that by itself. It has a long and stout cord and I can charge with the car in or out of the garage.