Waking a car up after 2 years !

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Brettfcars

Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2024
Messages
7
Location
London
Hi all,
I am new to this forum and the i3.
I have inherited a 2015 i3 that has sat unused for 2 years.
It had an initial issue of the front radiator fan running all the time, and this was traced to a faulty water pump.
Pump was left off car, hoses plugged. HV Disconnect was pulled as was the small plug to the batteries and the HV battery connector. 12v battery was left to die.
I have replaced the pump and 12v battery, and currently awaiting the HV battery to fully charge.
Pump completed the 20min purge cycle ok requiring about 2 Litres of coolant. Front fan is now of when charging (13amp plug type BMW charger)
The car has drive train faults and lots of errors on BimmerLink that can’t be currently cleared.

Looking at advice given to others, waiting for the car to fully charge is the first option. And perhaps a further HV & 12v power cycle.
I am also awaiting ISTA to download to see what faults remain.

So a few questions.
Is there any other advice ?
Was car correctly stored ?
Should I be prepared for lots of issues from sitting without power ?
A/C pressure check is one item I am thinking of.

Also Is there a walk through on how to use ISTA on the i3 ?

Thanks all
 
I am also awaiting ISTA to download to see what faults remain.
Which ISTA version are you downloading?
Was car correctly stored ?
The 12V battery should have been disconnected. It would have still self-discharged significantly over 2 years, but the 12V system would not have experienced very low voltages that result in many spurious DTC's being stored which can be difficult to clear. I have stored our i3's 8 times for periods as long as 9 months. I have always disconnected the 12V battery and have never returned to an i3 with lots of spurious DTC's stored.
Should I be prepared for lots of issues from sitting without power ?
Clearing the stored DTC's is probably the main issue.
A/C pressure check is one item I am thinking of.
Wouldn't hurt but might not be necessary.
Also Is there a walk through on how to use ISTA on the i3 ?
Search the Internet for "ISTA User Guide". I found version 4.39 from October, 2022, which matches the ISTA version that I downloaded. Unfortunately, I don't know where I found it.

There are also some tutorials written by ISTA users. They seem to be for older ISTA versions, but these tutorials would likely still be valid, especially if they're for ISTA version 4.
 
Hi,
What would be the best ISTA to download for the i3, and what cable ?
The version I am downloading is, ISTA+ 4.39.20 (+SDP 4.42.40) and have purchased a ENET cable.
I believe different psdz or newer parts (packs of data ?) of ista can be downloaded and inserted in the file system to update ?
I am new to ista and the i3 so it’s a learning curve !
 
As a slight aside, to re-iterate what's been said in other threads here: If you don't know already, be aware that any version of ISTA that you can download from the Internet is going to be a "hacked" copy, and it can have any code added to it, for any reason that the person distributing it wants (and their interests probably don't align with yours). Do NOT rely on malware scanning, because it simply won't find any malicious code that may have been custom-built for it (malware scanners rely on the fact that most malware is built on common, shared code with a recognisable "signature").

The important thing about this is the rule that you should never install untrusted code like that on a computer that also contains any data that you care about - because you should assume that untrusted code can also see everything on that computer, and do what it wants with it. Probably the best approach is to get a cheap old laptop which you can use for that and nothing else. A better approach is to put it within a virtual machine on a cheap old laptop - though that can mean that it runs a bit slow!
 
Thanks mojo for a very good warning !
I will be using a dedicated machine now I have it downloaded.

What version of ista is the one others use on the i3 and what are capabilities of the software?

What is possible with different versions?

Thanks
 
What version of ista is the one others use on the i3 and what are capabilities of the software?

What is possible with different versions?
I've been told that version 4.39.20 is the most recent ISTA version available without a license. Fortunately, it is recent enough to work well with any i3.

The huge psdz data file isn't needed if ISTA is to be used only for diagnosis. Apparently, this data file includes all integration level updates for all BMW models through the data file's release date which is way overkill for those who aren't professional BMW mechanics. This same data file might be used by E-Sys as well, the BMW software than can change coding parameter values (i.e., BimmerCode's more capable but much more difficult to use relative). Not having to install the data file would drastically reduce the free space needed. Your OBD to Ethernet cable should be sufficient for diagnosis.

ISTA is able to scan for stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's), to display information about each stored DTC, to prepare a repair plan, to display repair procedures, and to erase stored DTC's (i.e., BimmerLink's more capable but more difficult to use relative).

ISTA is also able to program BMW vehicles (e.g., to register new components, to increase the integration level). However, this requires the huge psdz data file, an expensive ICOM cable, and a 12V power supply to prevent the 12V battery from discharging during lengthy programming procedures. That's way more than most casual i3 owners would want to risk doing and an expense that most casual i3 owners would not want to invest.

I don't find ISTA's user interface to be very intuitive. It still uses the old Windows 95 windows-within-a-window UI with rows of buttons along the tops and bottoms of these windows. I suppose if one were a BMW mechanic, the UI would be learned eventually. However, for occasional use, I'm not confident that I know how to use ISTA to its full capabilities. I have the official "ISTA User Guide" version 4.39, but at 146 pages, it includes so many things that I would not be doing that it is a bit much. Some ISTA users have posted tutorials that probably help. The tutorials that I have found cover earlier ISTA versions which might not matter.

The installation of my first downloaded version of ISTA 4.39.20 failed for reasons that I don't understand (I'm a Mac guy who doesn't understand or want to learn Windows). The installation of a download from a different source succeeded. I installed ISTA under a free version of 64-bit Windows 10 downloaded from Microsoft onto a Bootcamp partition on a 2016 Intel MacBook with a 256 GB SSD which has insufficient free space to install the psdz data file. For security reasons, I don't plan to connect this Windows partition to the Internet instead transferring downloaded files from my MacBook Air via a USB flash drive.

After you've installed ISTA, connect your laptop to your i3 in drive ready state with your OBD to Ethernet cable. Fortunately, I didn't have to futz with any Windows settings because apparently macOS's Bootcamp configured Windows to work well with my Ethernet to USB C adapter (my MacBook has no Ethernet port). Click ISTA's "Read Out Vehicle Data" tab below 4 rows of buttons (!) and then either the "Identification without vehicle test" or "Complete identification" button. If ISTA is able to read the VIN of your i3 and display the correct details about your i3, your installation is probably good.
 
Hi All,

When installing ISTA what interface is selected here.
I have a enet cable so thinking the bottom one ?
On line guides show interface selection is within the program, this pop up appears when installing …
Thanks all,
merry Christmas everyone
 

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My experience with ISTA - I believe I have the version @alohart mentioned above. I downloaded the huge (300GB ish) data files. The i3 is rather better than most cars for programming as the HV battery will keep the 12V system topped up without the need for an external charger. Disclaimer - It worked fine for me, might not for you! I used an ENET cable and had no problem upgrading the istep of my i3 from factory 2018 to 2022. It took an hour or so, was a largely automatic process. By far the longest update was for the idrive.

My laptop didn't have enough space for the data files so I redirected them over wireless from a PC in my house. I like to live dangerously!
 
I downloaded the huge (300GB ish) data files. The i3 is rather better than most cars for programming as the HV battery will keep the 12V system topped up without the need for an external charger.
Did you increase the integration level with your i3 in drive ready state to keep the DC-DC converter on?
I used an ENET cable and had no problem upgrading the istep of my i3 from factory 2018 to 2022.
Why does BMW state that an ICOM cable is required for programming when an Ethernet cable should reliably transmit data packets?
My laptop didn't have enough space for the data files so I redirected them over wireless from a PC in my house. I like to live dangerously!
Apparently, BMW dealers have occasional integration level increase errors requiring the process to be repeated. This doesn't brick an i3 permanently, so even if your wireless link had failed during programming, you probably could have started over and completed the process.
 
Ok,
I have the enet cable talking and most fault codes cleared down when resetting or simply after leaving it to charge for 24hrs.
However I have a drive train error on the dash, and some un-clearing alarms seen.
This is on ISTA…

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This is on a Bluetooth to iPhone Topdon fault codes cleared down reader.

IMG_2310.png

Both won’t reset so it looks like the EME has an issue.
Car doesn’t drive, the gear selector staying red, some times it briefly goes blue and in drive but only for a couple of seconds. Was able to drive car once about 60mm before back to red on selector and fault reoccurrence.


Test procedures imply rotor position wiring should be checked, but this looks internal.
EME internal fault (active short circuit request) not much info on.

I have seen others have reprogrammed/set up the angle sensor, but this is not suggested as a option. And not sure if version I have of ISTA will do this ?

So I surpose I have 3 questions.
1. Is it possible to get the end cover off the motor end to check, rotor and wiring ?
2. Is it possible to get the EME off the motor without complete drive train removal, looks possible if the engine is lowered slightly ?
3. I have seen others swap the EME with a secondhand replacements, swapping the control board so no programming required. However mine is a 2015 with the early combined EME, can a later one be used. Expect it’s the `HV side that’s faulty, coms card seems to work !

Any thoughts or other sources of info appreciated.

Merry Christmas all
 
The interesting thing about the faults I have left is they are appearing to stay constant, however sometimes very briefly (seconds) the car is able to go into drive and has moved twice.
So whatever the car is seeing or monitoring it sometimes thinks it’s ok.
Also the individual fault, effect to customer text in ISTA states none.

This implies whatever is monitored is varying ?

I have seen some variation in rotor speed, and position sensors. XTool Anyscan shows the following moving values.
This is max deviation.

So far this is the only deviations seen, however laptop battery went flat for ISTA, and iPad battery failed on the XTool.
XTool seems to communicate very well with the i3. Lots of live data and actuation tests. Runs the coolant pump for example.

Will try further over Christmas as off the week.

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Where was the car stored?
Is it possible rodents have got to it?
They seem to prefare some wires to others, depending on the insulation make up.
Would be worth a thorough inspection of all wiring related if in doubt?
 
So far this is the only deviations seen, however laptop battery went flat for ISTA, and iPad battery failed on the XTool.
You need a USB port that plugs into the cigarette lighter or the auxiliary power port under the center of the dashboard. Then plug your laptop or iPad into this USB port to charge it while using it. I've had to do this as well.
 
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