How many have had the drive train malfunction error?

[Anonymous]

Wonder how many of these "drive-train malfunction" errors are equivalent to the Windows "blue-screen-of-death", caused by a software glitch code stumble that a re-boot/reset fixes?

 

[Beadbabe50]

I just had my i3 towed, dead as a door nail until the guys tried to jump start it, but all the safeguards on the vehicle shut them out. So we are assuming it’s a battery thing. The lights flashed and clicked until it went totally dead and before this happened I had 50k on the car and used the REX 2 miles to get home. Shutting it off the motor still ran and I plugged in the charger. Today it had zero charge and was mostly dead. Unplugging it from the charger Nd closing the port door, that locked and would not open again. Couldn’t get it into neutral for towing Nd was forwArd facing in my garage, which then they had to drag it out on skates and onto a flatbed. Thankful I have triple AAA. but they tried for over an hour and a half to try anything to get it out of the garage. I will never front face in my garage again. I love this car , am hopeful, so will see what they say. It’s a 2015 Rex. And has almost every option you can get on it.

 

[jadnashuanh]

If you try to charge the 12vdc battery without following proper procedures (that requires disconnecting the safety HV switch), you can damage things, maybe a lot.

 

[Star63]

Picked up my car tonight drove about 25 miles without issue.

Per the work order:

Error code 886.

Moisture in the range extender electrical machine. Performed vehicle test. Found fault stord for isolation resistance. Followed the test plan. Test plan checked isolation resistance and found OK. test plan indicated problem caused by moisture in the range extender electrical machine. Performed drying procedure by removing temperature sensor 6mm and running the engine for 3 hours. Before engine run, discharged vehicle battery with electrical consumers. Perform drying procedure. Reinstall temperature sensor. Torque bolts to 5NM and TECH 3 verifed this. Cleared fault memory and drove the vehicle. No faults or indicators returned. Charged the vehicle battery to full capacity.

Does anyone know where the 6mm temperature sensor is located? I'd like to try that procedure to see if it helps...

 

[si2t3m]

Just picked up my 'new to me' 2014 I3 Rex with 60k kms on it. Drove mainly on REX for a 900 trip back home and got the "Drivetrain malfunction". I do have BimmerLink and will check it later today and report back.

Regarding the dead 12V batt, I'm I over simplyfing it? I ordered and cigarette lighter plug with USB and voltage display. This should give me a clue?

 

[alohart]

Regarding the dead 12V batt, I'm I over simplyfing it? I ordered and cigarette lighter plug with USB and voltage display. This should give me a clue?

I've been driving with a 12 V voltmeter in the auxiliary power port under the climate control system controls for over a year hoping that it will detect a failing 12 V battery. However, the i3's 12 V system behaves so differently from any I am familiar with that I'm not so confident that this voltmeter will detect weak 12 V battery.

Because of the low capacity of the 12 V battery, the power required to boot several controllers when the doors are unlocked or opened or the hatch or frunk opened pulls the 12 V system voltage down as low as 11.9 V before the DC-DC converter boots which then begins charging the 12 V battery raising the 12 V system voltage to ~14.3 V.

When I first installed the voltmeter, I was concerned that this behavior indicated a weak 12 V battery, so I asked my BMW dealer to check the 12 V battery. His shop foreman told me in November, 2017, that this is normal i3 behavior and that my 12 V battery tested good. In March, 2019, the same 12 V battery continues working as it always has.

The DC-DC converter is very aggressive keeping the 12 V battery charged, so it's difficult to measure the battery's resting voltage. I finally connected a voltmeter to the 12 V terminals beneath the cargo floor by running the leads up through the underside of the car. This allowed me to monitor the 12 V battery without opening the hatch, doors, or frunk which would turn on the DC-DC converter. The resting voltage seemed to be within the normal range. However, I did not leave these leads attached to the 12 V terminals, so I can't easily check the 12 V battery's resting voltage whenever I want.

 

[greenlion]

Well, count me in on the drivetrain malfunction error, powered up car this morning popped into D and boom, I had been reading up on things on here and read a post where someone simply physically moved the car a bit so i drove forward a few feet shut down entirely restarted and everything was good? car is a 17' rex

 

[maclaytodd]

HV Insulation Fault Fixed
I own a June 2014 build i3 Rex which I have had for over a year. Apart from the recall work, it’s been pretty trouble free and, most important, fun, practical and almost completely electric. It started pinging us with drivetrain error warnings about 5 weeks ago but these never resulted in drivability issues. I have the Bluedriver OBD scan tool which the mfr claims is not set up for the non-Rex i3’s. Accordingly, it doesn’t tell you much about the HV battery side. It did read fault codes indicating HV insulation issues (faults 22280F, 222814, 21F03E3, 21F0E4). I did not attempt to clear them. We just ignored them and kept using the car and, apart from our concerns about it possibly leaving us stranded, it worked fine. There was a very strong correlation with getting the faults on rainy days. On non-inclement days, even when there was a lot of dew on everything, the faults were much less frequent. More often, the faults gonged you shortly after the car was first put in drive. A couple of times, I saw them flash during Level 2 charging.
A couple of weeks into the problem, I took it to the dealer and, after considerable diagnostic and test work, they were able to figure it out. The very considerable amount of labor was due to having to remove parts such as the Rex intake manifold and panels in order to disconnect HV cables to each component at the source and install diagnostic connectors. My dealer appears to have used the standard BMW diagnostic tools so that leads me to believe that BMW dealers are well equipped to perform tests to measure insulation resistance. This sort of test generally requires a special test meter which subjects the test items to a high voltage and measures current leakage to determine resistance.
It turns out the problem was with the flow (cabin) heater and associated wiring which is up in front. Since the replacement part had to be ordered, they reassembled the car and we drove it while we waited. The existing heater was in use pretty much the whole time and did its thing without fail. I had been preconditioning to heat the car up prior to driving under the theory this might drive out moisture but this did not help to prevent the faults. The new flow heater took about three weeks to arrive from Germany (part number 64-12-9-893-003). It was on back order for a few days as it is a brand new part number. The HV cable running from aft forward was also replaced as signs of moisture were observed at the connector when it was disconnected to replace the flow heater. It was not indicated whether leakage came from inside or outside the heater. The area it is in appears to be pretty well shielded from spray and drainage from the windshield so I would be surprised if the leakage was external.
Thanks to a dedicated effort by the dealer tech, this problem appears fixed as I’ve had it back a week now and, rain, shine or in-between, no more faults. The flow heater will, by its nature, experience fairly large temperature swings and high temperature is hard on seals and insulation. This component could well be a prime suspect for HV insulation faults. In my case, disconnecting the HV cable at the heater and visually inspecting it might have avoided a lot of diagnostic work. Note: Working on HV should only be done by knowledgeable, well equipped persons as can be lethal. It remains a laborious task to replace the cable though.

Best regards & hope this helps.

 

[bwilson4web]

HV Insulation Fault Fixed

• I own a June 2014 build i3 Rex which I have had for over a year. Apart from the recall work, it’s been pretty trouble free and, most important, fun, practical and almost completely electric. It started pinging us with drivetrain error warnings about 5 weeks ago but these never resulted in drivability issues.
  
  I have the Bluedriver OBD scan tool which the mfr claims is not set up for the non-Rex i3’s. Accordingly, it doesn’t tell you much about the HV battery side. It did read fault codes indicating HV insulation issues (faults 22280F, 222814, 21F03E3, 21F0E4). I did not attempt to clear them. We just ignored them and kept using the car and, apart from our concerns about it possibly leaving us stranded, it worked fine.
  
  There was a very strong correlation with getting the faults on rainy days. On non-inclement days, even when there was a lot of dew on everything, the faults were much less frequent. More often, the faults gonged you shortly after the car was first put in drive. A couple of times, I saw them flash during Level 2 charging.
  
  A couple of weeks into the problem, I took it to the dealer and, after considerable diagnostic and test work, they were able to figure it out. The very considerable amount of labor was due to having to remove parts such as the Rex intake manifold and panels in order to disconnect HV cables to each component at the source and install diagnostic connectors. My dealer appears to have used the standard BMW diagnostic tools so that leads me to believe that BMW dealers are well equipped to perform tests to measure insulation resistance. This sort of test generally requires a special test meter which subjects the test items to a high voltage and measures current leakage to determine resistance.
  
  It turns out the problem was with the flow (cabin) heater and associated wiring which is up in front. Since the replacement part had to be ordered, they reassembled the car and we drove it while we waited. The existing heater was in use pretty much the whole time and did its thing without fail. I had been preconditioning to heat the car up prior to driving under the theory this might drive out moisture but this did not help to prevent the faults.
  
  The new flow heater took about three weeks to arrive from Germany (part number 64-12-9-893-003). It was on back order for a few days as it is a brand new part number. The HV cable running from aft forward was also replaced as signs of moisture were observed at the connector when it was disconnected to replace the flow heater. It was not indicated whether leakage came from inside or outside the heater. The area it is in appears to be pretty well shielded from spray and drainage from the windshield so I would be surprised if the leakage was external.
  
  Thanks to a dedicated effort by the dealer tech, this problem appears fixed as I’ve had it back a week now and, rain, shine or in-between, no more faults. The flow heater will, by its nature, experience fairly large temperature swings and high temperature is hard on seals and insulation. This component could well be a prime suspect for HV insulation faults. In my case, disconnecting the HV cable at the heater and visually inspecting it might have avoided a lot of diagnostic work. Note: Working on HV should only be done by knowledgeable, well equipped persons as can be lethal. It remains a laborious task to replace the cable though.
  
  Best regards & hope this helps.

I had to put in paragraph breaks to understand your otherwise well written description.

Could you add some photos?

Thanks,
Bob Wilson

 

[Iwona]

My 2014 i3 (purchased new, full electric, 17179 miles on the clock) failed on the road with a drivetrain malfunction error mesaage, refusing to turn the car off and wheels blocked so I was unable to push it offroad. I brought it on a lowloader to the BMW garage is Ashford, UK. After 5 weeks in the garage I am told that my current bill is almost £1000, they still do not know what is wrong with the car and are waiting for further testing instructions from bmw headquaters (which means further charges for testing time). And I will not be given a courtesy car because my car is too old. Wish I never purchased this car and would not reccomend to anyone to buy it for personal safety reasons (car failed and stopped in the middle of the road, thank goodness I was not on a motorway), bmw's inability to deal with this car's issues, very high cost of labour at bmw garages, and appaling customer service.

 

[Drivetrain]

Hi,

I have a 2014 ReX at about 80,000 miles and have just had an amber drive train warning come up.

It happened the day after a red parking brake warning came up (which came up once and has now gone).

I have taken it to my local (Bosch) garage who say the error code was about High Voltage Insulation and said they were not set up to work on it. I took it to a local independent BMW specialist garage and he told me the same code came up for him too (I didn't tell him I had already been somewhere else). He said he reckoned he would be up for it, but that it would likely cost me an arm and a leg.

I have it back home now and have opened up the motor section and had a look around for anything obvious. Think I really need to get under it to see any likely rubbed wires or whatever. Though I do see it may not be that straightforward as finding a rubbed wire, unplugging it and then plugging in a new one... oh for the day it is.

Enjoyed youtube videos by a Scottish guy who has had some similar problems.

The handbrake actually did stick on at one point at traffic lights and then the nearside rear brake got very hot after I got it going and pulled over. Hoping there is a correlation.

Had it for just over a year and apart from one fault which ended up being a frayed wire on a rear sensor it has run like clockwork.

Any thoughts much appreciated.

Peace and Plenty

 

[Drivetrain]

Don't know why that 'B' word tuned into a hyperlink

 

[alohart]

Don't know why that 'B' word tuned into a hyperlink

This Website automatically makes some words hyperlinks that reference its sponsors, sometimes very inappropriately.

 

[jadnashuanh]

BMW service costs seem to be in line with many of its similar brands from Audi, MB, etc. The hourly service costs seem to be in line. That doesn't mean they are inexpensive! Some of it might depend on whether they're using 'book' hours, or actual time. The guys that work on the thing a lot can often do the job in less than the book hours, but normally you pay for the book time. An independent shop might charge you actual time, even though that might exceed the book time, but their hourly rate may be lower.

FWIW, some parts I find are quite inexpensive, while others seem to be way more than I'd expect, so it just depends. Some of it is based on the volume, some on the complexity, and some on whether they use the same part in other models.

Not all techs are created equal, either. Unless the shop has enough volume to justify dedicating their best techs to an i3, you'll have this kind of thing...sometimes, another dealership might provide a very different experience.

The dealership can often have a very big part of whether you like a car or not.

 

[Jason]

Have had 2014 i3 towed to bmw dealer twice for DRIVETRAIN MALFUNCTION. This time they replaced one of eight High Voltage batteries.Took a month because I am in Hawaii..Read all the feedback, and must agree this is not a car I can afford to keep without Warranty. So I asked what a one year plan would cost. $4,300. Guess I should just take a $15,000 loss and unload it as a trade in if any other dealer will take it. My 2 year warranty is almost up.
So I got out the customer book and read that the HV battery has an Eight year/80,000 mile Warranty in this state. There was also good coverage for Corrosion, and the REX engine. Has anyone had to use these services.? I would keep the car longer if i had assurance that the battery pack was covered. Paid $507 for 12v. Replacement battery.

 

[alohart]

Have had 2014 i3 towed to bmw dealer twice for DRIVETRAIN MALFUNCTION. This time they replaced one of eight High Voltage batteries.Took a month because I am in Hawaii..

I have read about excessive delays in the replacement of a battery pack module in other U.S. locations, so I doubt that the delay is due to your living in Hawaiʻi. It might be that airlines won't transport Li-ion battery cells so these modules must be shipped by sea and land from Germany. I would think that they could be stocked in a North American BMW parts warehouse, but that doesn't seem to happen for many i3 electronic modules and parts.

Read all the feedback, and must agree this is not a car I can afford to keep without Warranty.

The general warranty on our 2014 BEV expired in November, 2018. I know that an expensive electronic module, the A/C compressor, the plastic motor mount bracket, etc., could fail which could result in a repair cost that is a significant percentage of the market value of the car. However, this seems like a fairly low probability, so I don't worry about it.

So I asked what a one year plan would cost. $4,300. Guess I should just take a $15,000 loss and unload it as a trade in if any other dealer will take it. My 2 year warranty is almost up.

Unloading it is a guaranteed loss. Keeping it might result in a significant loss, but that's not guaranteed.

So I got out the customer book and read that the HV battery has an Eight year/80,000 mile Warranty in this state. There was also good coverage for Corrosion, and the REX engine. Has anyone had to use these services.? I would keep the car longer if i had assurance that the battery pack was covered. Paid $507 for 12v. Replacement battery.

I assume that your battery pack module was replaced under the battery pack warranty which, according to this warranty manual, is 8 yr/100,000 mi. In addition to being warrantied against defects in materials or workmanship, the usable battery pack capacity is warrantied not to decrease by more than 30%. So your battery pack is covered by a warranty for at least 2 more years, depending on the date your i3 was originally sold. Battery pack failures have been very uncommon although it might not seem so to you.

As you discovered, BMW dealers charge way too much for a 12 V battery replacement. I plan to replace the 12 V battery in our i3. BMW of Honolulu's price for a battery was ~$210 a year ago. I ordered the same battery from an East Penn Manufacturing retailer in Honolulu for $150 including shipping. Replacing the battery isn't difficult, so I will do it when the original battery fails. I understand that not everyone would be comfortable doing this, but I don't want to overpay for something that I can do myself.

I plan to keep our i3 until it's totaled in a collision or it has a repair cost that exceeds its market value.

 

[Anonymous]

Jason, look at it logically. There have been more than 150,000 BMW i3's sold. In that total, catastrophic failures are likely around .01%. And even if that extremely rare occurrence happens to your car, as a non-running salvage-for-parts-car, it is still worth about $7,000.

Statistically you'd need to buy at least 10,000 i3's to get 1 that had a failure/repair costing so much that it totaled the car.

Pretty good odds - my 2015 is out of warranty, and I'm not going to get worked up about the chance of an 0.01% 'what-if'. Not going to spend 25% of the value of the car on an extended warranty that in all likelihood will never pay back its cost. Not going to lose money/value by prematurely dumping a perfectly good vehicle, because it 'might' be the one in 10,000.

I'll just drive it until the wheels fall off

 

[Jason]

Hey Art and Mark, thanks for the sensible advice. Even if the wheels fall off, I have a neighbor who knows how to take the remaining batteries and run my off grid solar house on 48 volts. All mu Outack inverters are conveniently 48 volts, as are the HV units of most EVs, including Beamers. The car charges slowly but dependably on solar power.

 

[sheadit]

My 2016 REX came to a sudden stop on the way home - big red "check drivetrain" message telling me not to drive and to call BMW mobile support. Couldn't move the steering wheel and the wheels were locked. I was in the middle of a small lane blocking the traffic. Switched off and then on again and thankfully it restarted. Diagnostics showed no faults (!) and I managed to get home. Then started thinking what if I was in the outside lane of a motorway when this happened? Anyway took it to BMW and diagnosis is replacement electric motor (£7,000) plus £2,200 of labour. They are going to pick up the cost of the parts plus 50% of the labour so guess I should be grateful since it is out of warranty - but that's not how I feel.... Anyone know how long it should take to replace a motor - seems like a lot of labour to me.

 

[MagicCarpet]

When you say came to a sudden stop, do you mean the warning came on and the car slowed until around 3 Km/hr then self engaged Park and locked the transmission, or something else?

Any more info form the dealer? 2014 / 2015 REX models had an issue with moisture getting into the electic machine and elecronics causing intermttent HV insulation shutdowns but another cause might be wear on the transmission splines or broken mount bolts?

Pleased they are helping out with this, I'm nervous with anything about the REX or AC or control systems mine was built late 2016