Pete at Remington, the company that used to do it using explorer stopped as they couldn't warrant it as the ones that didn't brick during the process some went on to fail later. I'd go with the hex 2 route out of the 2. If I fail trying this route, there is someone on ebay who does it using Hex 2 thats my second option.
EME swap, possibilities?
- Thread starter Brettfcars
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Brettfcars
Member
Hi, thanks for photos RP67.
It would definitely seem that the entire inner workings were redesigned for the later EME’s.
virginising is apparently being done by others, so is possible. It sounds like you may have the knowledge to take it further.
Remember there is a rotor offset value programmable in ista from a value engraved on the bottom of the motor, on a data plate.
Not sure if you have done this, It may resolve some further codes ?
You can also view the current value to but it back if the EME is used again in the original car.
It would definitely seem that the entire inner workings were redesigned for the later EME’s.
virginising is apparently being done by others, so is possible. It sounds like you may have the knowledge to take it further.
Remember there is a rotor offset value programmable in ista from a value engraved on the bottom of the motor, on a data plate.
Not sure if you have done this, It may resolve some further codes ?
You can also view the current value to but it back if the EME is used again in the original car.
Brettfcars
Member
Brettfcars
Member
Clearance looking good but can’t seem to get the rotor position wiring plugs off the black connector. Not shown I. Photos but end plate of motor is off, and brass phase wiring bolts or out.
As are the 2 rear located eme Bolts and fronts now being done.
Still to remove water pipes and A/C, heater HV.
Help on how to get the black plus in the rotor housing needed, I see a hole but can’t see much else.
As are the 2 rear located eme Bolts and fronts now being done.
Still to remove water pipes and A/C, heater HV.
Help on how to get the black plus in the rotor housing needed, I see a hole but can’t see much else.
Attachments
Be careful, make sure you've removed all the bolts that hold the top down, more than you imagine. Most water connections have the metal clip that can be levered up with a flat blade but the hose on the back of mine was a traditional sprung loaded clip so needed pliers and patients as the EME is moved away from the motor.
Brettfcars
Member
It’s the black temperature and rotor position plug that’s defeating me at the moment.
I can’t see a tang (?) to push to release?
There are round holes in the socket, top inverter parts so will see if able to push in.
all other fixings are off!
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Brettfcars
Member
Ok,
Turns out they just required a pull, was expecting more !
Turns out they just required a pull, was expecting more !
RP67
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2024
- Messages
- 34
Sorry, the top HV connector was removed from both unit I showed earlier.
Brettfcars
Member
Ok,
So I find it is possible to remove the EME with out dropping the entire drive assembly.
While fresh in my mind this was the process.
1. Use a jack to surport motor then Undo the centre motor for and aft mounting bolts. (Removed one)
2. Remove the left hand engine surport.
This is not easy but is doable, cuts and abrasions in hands will heal. This is documented by others but I would recommend a very short nano 17mm socket this is in 3/8 drive but with a hex on the outside to allow a spanner to be used on it. There are 2 recessed bolts to use it on. Also remove the rubber drive train centring pads (?) these are u set the engine mounting rubber supports this allows some more sideway movement…
3. Remove HV cabling supports mounted to the side of the motor and curving over the top.
4. Take off the motor rotor cover black insulation on left hand end of motor. Get used to removing the rectangle spring clips ! I find a small screw driver inserted where the clips bend out, and easy out a bit at a time on both sides. Then undo the motor cover plate screws and remove.
Undo the motor wiring.
4. Remove left hand drive shaft. From being in the way of the front right hand EME bolt.
This requires wheel removal, and all suspension bolts on the hub.
I did remove the centre hub bolt which requires a large Alan key drive and a long breaker bar. This allowed the drive shaft to be later removal. However this may not be required as pulling out and supporting may be enough. Free up sensor and e-brake wiring by pulling from clips (allows more movement). Pull the hub away from transmission.
Drive shaft should pop out of the transmission. Surport shaft and hub as best as you can not straining cables and break hoses.
I removed drive shaft and rehung on the suspension bolts.
5. Now drive shaft is out of the way the two rear upwards EME bolts can be removed. Left hand easy right required a flexible 1/4 drive to just get to it.
6. Lower engine, I think it safely lowered about 60-80mm and may go lower. Check hoses and cables for strain.
7. Disconnect all top wiring to the Eme and wiring plugs at rear but not connected to the EME. Wiring can be pull away some distance once clips are undone.
8. Feel around the front end where the EME angles down, there are 2 of the rectangle type insulation holding spring clips, struggle removing these as they are not visible, once undone the black sound proofing can be rolled back to the rear of the car, but not yet removed. Think there was a clip at the rear (remove) but mine was missing. It’s also useful to lean on….
I then undid all the small screws on top of the EME (outer ones and ring around the inner part) and removed the lid. This was to check its internal condition, and helped with clearance, but may not be required.
9. Feel a at the front end of the EME, two mounting bolts going going down will be found. Undo these.
As EME is lower than normal there was plenty of space, but not to much direct visibility.
10. Undo rear coolant pipe. I undone the 2 screws holding the fitting to the EME, then pulled it out. (It’s o-ring sealed into the EME.). While there also remove a second earth cable near the rear coolant hose.
11. Remove right hand coolant pipe via the spring clip, it then pushes away to the right.
12. Remove the 3 side HV cables, push the tabs in at end of cable connector and latching ends should spring out. Push away from socket (I used a 3/8 extension Square end.
13. Double check with hands if any other fixings…..
14. Lift up EME and pull out car backwards.
EME sound proofing was left in car as was attached to motor at a lower point.
15. Be aware it’s a big lump and a bit unwieldy!
A decent set of Torx 3/8 drive socket bits will be required, plus extensions and rachet..
It should go back just as easy….
So I find it is possible to remove the EME with out dropping the entire drive assembly.
While fresh in my mind this was the process.
1. Use a jack to surport motor then Undo the centre motor for and aft mounting bolts. (Removed one)
2. Remove the left hand engine surport.
This is not easy but is doable, cuts and abrasions in hands will heal. This is documented by others but I would recommend a very short nano 17mm socket this is in 3/8 drive but with a hex on the outside to allow a spanner to be used on it. There are 2 recessed bolts to use it on. Also remove the rubber drive train centring pads (?) these are u set the engine mounting rubber supports this allows some more sideway movement…
3. Remove HV cabling supports mounted to the side of the motor and curving over the top.
4. Take off the motor rotor cover black insulation on left hand end of motor. Get used to removing the rectangle spring clips ! I find a small screw driver inserted where the clips bend out, and easy out a bit at a time on both sides. Then undo the motor cover plate screws and remove.
Undo the motor wiring.
4. Remove left hand drive shaft. From being in the way of the front right hand EME bolt.
This requires wheel removal, and all suspension bolts on the hub.
I did remove the centre hub bolt which requires a large Alan key drive and a long breaker bar. This allowed the drive shaft to be later removal. However this may not be required as pulling out and supporting may be enough. Free up sensor and e-brake wiring by pulling from clips (allows more movement). Pull the hub away from transmission.
Drive shaft should pop out of the transmission. Surport shaft and hub as best as you can not straining cables and break hoses.
I removed drive shaft and rehung on the suspension bolts.
5. Now drive shaft is out of the way the two rear upwards EME bolts can be removed. Left hand easy right required a flexible 1/4 drive to just get to it.
6. Lower engine, I think it safely lowered about 60-80mm and may go lower. Check hoses and cables for strain.
7. Disconnect all top wiring to the Eme and wiring plugs at rear but not connected to the EME. Wiring can be pull away some distance once clips are undone.
8. Feel around the front end where the EME angles down, there are 2 of the rectangle type insulation holding spring clips, struggle removing these as they are not visible, once undone the black sound proofing can be rolled back to the rear of the car, but not yet removed. Think there was a clip at the rear (remove) but mine was missing. It’s also useful to lean on….
I then undid all the small screws on top of the EME (outer ones and ring around the inner part) and removed the lid. This was to check its internal condition, and helped with clearance, but may not be required.
9. Feel a at the front end of the EME, two mounting bolts going going down will be found. Undo these.
As EME is lower than normal there was plenty of space, but not to much direct visibility.
10. Undo rear coolant pipe. I undone the 2 screws holding the fitting to the EME, then pulled it out. (It’s o-ring sealed into the EME.). While there also remove a second earth cable near the rear coolant hose.
11. Remove right hand coolant pipe via the spring clip, it then pushes away to the right.
12. Remove the 3 side HV cables, push the tabs in at end of cable connector and latching ends should spring out. Push away from socket (I used a 3/8 extension Square end.
13. Double check with hands if any other fixings…..
14. Lift up EME and pull out car backwards.
EME sound proofing was left in car as was attached to motor at a lower point.
15. Be aware it’s a big lump and a bit unwieldy!
A decent set of Torx 3/8 drive socket bits will be required, plus extensions and rachet..
It should go back just as easy….
Brettfcars
Member
Ok, here are some internal photos.
Bottom of the unit
Top.
Comparing these to the previous photos I can see the difference is pretty big between the later and early versions. There are a lot of bigger components attached to the HV connection plate !
Bottom of the unit
Top.
Comparing these to the previous photos I can see the difference is pretty big between the later and early versions. There are a lot of bigger components attached to the HV connection plate !
RP67
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2024
- Messages
- 34
The differences on the HV top plate is mainly related to the method how the low voltage is connected. Lot nicer the new one. You did a great progress. Any obvious sign of your issue?
Brettfcars
Member
Ok,
Things have taken a turn.
Checking the EME out finds no obvious issues. No burnt components or smells.
Testing the fuse finds it to be ok.
Looking further at the drive motor section I found metallic debris at the bottom of the rotor section.
I haven’t electrically tested it due to rain and snow, but looking at the pick up it look damaged.
Being a 2015 I believe the only way this occurs is a motor bearing has failed.
I am either seeing the results of the bearing failure or there has been contact at the rotor pickup.
Searching the web finds this is something that can occur to pre 2018 motors due to BMW not understanding the loads on the bearings. They changed to an angular and/or roller bearings in the later motors.
So I have looked around and found a late 2018 motor and transmission unit for under £500 (seams a bargain) and is a worthwhile upgrade.
So it now looks like I will be going that route.
Interestingly the transmission that is already in the car is dated 2020, so looks like it was previously replaced. The Motor is dated 2015.
I am hoping the short circuit and rotor position implausible faults are just (!) due to the motor ?
I am now wondering how good is the motor fault protection and will it have shut down before inverter damage ?
Getting the EME out gives a good view of the motor and transmission, both of which look removable from the Rex while not taking the whole drive assembly out of the car. Bolts look visible and the clearance looks possible.
Motor removal on its own looks possible as have perhaps 60mm clearance to pull it from the transmission spline.
But have seen that the transmission is bolted to the Rex with no clearance issues or dowels to move away from so looks easier as an assembly? (Weight yet to be assessed)
There is not much I can do while I await the motor assembly, but while the EME is out is there any easily done checks ?
Also I have the car disconnected from HV and 12v. This means the tail gate will lock if left to close. Is it ok to reconnect the 12v, so the tail gate will close ? Or is there an emergency release ?
Things have taken a turn.
Checking the EME out finds no obvious issues. No burnt components or smells.
Testing the fuse finds it to be ok.
Looking further at the drive motor section I found metallic debris at the bottom of the rotor section.
I haven’t electrically tested it due to rain and snow, but looking at the pick up it look damaged.
Being a 2015 I believe the only way this occurs is a motor bearing has failed.
I am either seeing the results of the bearing failure or there has been contact at the rotor pickup.
Searching the web finds this is something that can occur to pre 2018 motors due to BMW not understanding the loads on the bearings. They changed to an angular and/or roller bearings in the later motors.
So I have looked around and found a late 2018 motor and transmission unit for under £500 (seams a bargain) and is a worthwhile upgrade.
So it now looks like I will be going that route.
Interestingly the transmission that is already in the car is dated 2020, so looks like it was previously replaced. The Motor is dated 2015.
I am hoping the short circuit and rotor position implausible faults are just (!) due to the motor ?
I am now wondering how good is the motor fault protection and will it have shut down before inverter damage ?
Getting the EME out gives a good view of the motor and transmission, both of which look removable from the Rex while not taking the whole drive assembly out of the car. Bolts look visible and the clearance looks possible.
Motor removal on its own looks possible as have perhaps 60mm clearance to pull it from the transmission spline.
But have seen that the transmission is bolted to the Rex with no clearance issues or dowels to move away from so looks easier as an assembly? (Weight yet to be assessed)
There is not much I can do while I await the motor assembly, but while the EME is out is there any easily done checks ?
Also I have the car disconnected from HV and 12v. This means the tail gate will lock if left to close. Is it ok to reconnect the 12v, so the tail gate will close ? Or is there an emergency release ?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2024
- Messages
- 122
Quite an adventure!
There is no emergency release. Covering the tailgate latch with something should prevent it from locking. With the extent of your disassembly, I don't know whether connecting the 12V battery might short-circuit something. However, if you decide to connect the 12V battery, be sure that the HV disconnect is disconnected (it probably already is).
Brettfcars
Member
Thanks for the suggestions.
I am surprised there is no internal emergency release to the boot, and have done as suggested.
First of all I obstructed it, and have now tripped the lock to the locked position.
I definitely don’t want to confuse the car by powering the 12v side up with a lot of wiring disconnected.
Admittedly it is all disconnected by plugs and not cut. So I don’t think a short would occur.
However can’t imagine the qty of faults that would be thrown…
Due to work, I won’t now be able to work on the car to next week.
Motor and transmission should be with me over the next 2 days.
Online I am seeing it recommended that both be replaced when a failed bearing occurs due to the stress of the shaft movement on the transmission.
It will be interesting to see if any issue seen. It would be a shame to have to replace as it’s the newest part of the car.
The transmission smells a bit like burnt oil from the drive shaft socket, so I am buying new oil for refill or the replacement one. (And can give it a sniff)
Also I have a later alloy engine bracket on the way.
The plastic original has been found to have a crack on the bottom bolt mounting hole.
I am surprised there is no internal emergency release to the boot, and have done as suggested.
First of all I obstructed it, and have now tripped the lock to the locked position.
I definitely don’t want to confuse the car by powering the 12v side up with a lot of wiring disconnected.
Admittedly it is all disconnected by plugs and not cut. So I don’t think a short would occur.
However can’t imagine the qty of faults that would be thrown…
Due to work, I won’t now be able to work on the car to next week.
Motor and transmission should be with me over the next 2 days.
Online I am seeing it recommended that both be replaced when a failed bearing occurs due to the stress of the shaft movement on the transmission.
It will be interesting to see if any issue seen. It would be a shame to have to replace as it’s the newest part of the car.
The transmission smells a bit like burnt oil from the drive shaft socket, so I am buying new oil for refill or the replacement one. (And can give it a sniff)
Also I have a later alloy engine bracket on the way.
The plastic original has been found to have a crack on the bottom bolt mounting hole.
Just to add to the confusion of the various updates BMW made to the EME. There is an updated EME that still has the 3.7kw acdc charging board in it. It goes along the lines of car manufacture date 2013-2016 (early to mid) original design. 2016 - 5/2017 - Updated original design. The entire EME is compatible with 2013-7/2017 cars BUT the logic board is not backward compatible with 2013-2016 EME. Original version will have C REV05.1 on it, updated version will have PKR2 CTRL-REV01C on the board). From 5/2017 onwards the EME design changed and the 3.7kw board was moved to the EME (if you have ac fast charge). This EME is not backwards compatible.
The reason I say car manufacture date and not the module manufacture date is BMW continued making the updated original EMEs past the car manufacture date of 5/2017, see below. My 2014 ac fast charge car had a made in 2018 EME in it, must have been replaced at some point, and a made in 2014 KLE, so it was of the original design with one charge board in the EME and the other in the KLE. Worth considering if you are looking for a replacement used EME as a 2017 or 2018 may still be the early (but updated) design, you need to go by part number.
The part numbers of compatible BEV EMEs (I havent collated the REX numbers but the BEV and REX EMEs are interchangeable) are:
12368688833 (03/01/2017 onwards)
12368679693 (07/01/2016-01/18/2018), Exchangeable retrospectively
12368652055 (11/01/2015-08/23/2016), Exchangeable retrospectively
12368644792 (07/01/2014-08/23/2016), Exchangeable retrospectively
12368642608 (07/01/2014-08/11/2014), Exchangeable retrospectively
12368642557 (03/01/2014- 07/25/2016), Exchangeable retrospectively
12368630200 (09/02/2013-07/01/2016), Bilaterally exchangeable
12368630198 (09/02/2013 — 02/27/2014)
BMW didnt make it easy to keep these cars on the road.
