EME swap, possibilities?

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Pete at Remington, the company that used to do it using explorer stopped as they couldn't warrant it as the ones that didn't brick during the process some went on to fail later. I'd go with the hex 2 route out of the 2. If I fail trying this route, there is someone on ebay who does it using Hex 2 thats my second option.
 
Hi, thanks for photos RP67.
It would definitely seem that the entire inner workings were redesigned for the later EME’s.

virginising is apparently being done by others, so is possible. It sounds like you may have the knowledge to take it further.
Remember there is a rotor offset value programmable in ista from a value engraved on the bottom of the motor, on a data plate.
Not sure if you have done this, It may resolve some further codes ?
You can also view the current value to but it back if the EME is used again in the original car.
 
Ok,
I have got the inside of the EME exposed. But the inside looks different to those photos already posted.
I am going to see if possible to remove it completely.
 

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Clearance looking good but can’t seem to get the rotor position wiring plugs off the black connector. Not shown I. Photos but end plate of motor is off, and brass phase wiring bolts or out.
As are the 2 rear located eme Bolts and fronts now being done.

Still to remove water pipes and A/C, heater HV.

Help on how to get the black plus in the rotor housing needed, I see a hole but can’t see much else.
 

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Be careful, make sure you've removed all the bolts that hold the top down, more than you imagine. Most water connections have the metal clip that can be levered up with a flat blade but the hose on the back of mine was a traditional sprung loaded clip so needed pliers and patients as the EME is moved away from the motor.
 
Be careful, make sure you've removed all the bolts that hold the top down, more than you imagine. Most water connections have the metal clip that can be levered up with a flat blade but the hose on the back of mine was a traditional sprung loaded clip so needed pliers and patients as the EME is moved away from the motor.
It’s the black temperature and rotor position plug that’s defeating me at the moment.
I can’t see a tang (?) to push to release?
There are round holes in the socket, top inverter parts so will see if able to push in.
all other fixings are off!
 
Yes, I struggle with those 2 connections too.

It would be good if someone has a tip on removing those. I managed but think it was more luck than judgement
 
Ok,
I have got the inside of the EME exposed. But the inside looks different to those photos already posted.
I am going to see if possible to remove it completely.
Sorry, the top HV connector was removed from both unit I showed earlier. 20240903_104043.jpg
 
Ok,
So I find it is possible to remove the EME with out dropping the entire drive assembly.

While fresh in my mind this was the process.

1. Use a jack to surport motor then Undo the centre motor for and aft mounting bolts. (Removed one)

2. Remove the left hand engine surport.
This is not easy but is doable, cuts and abrasions in hands will heal. This is documented by others but I would recommend a very short nano 17mm socket this is in 3/8 drive but with a hex on the outside to allow a spanner to be used on it. There are 2 recessed bolts to use it on. Also remove the rubber drive train centring pads (?) these are u set the engine mounting rubber supports this allows some more sideway movement…

3. Remove HV cabling supports mounted to the side of the motor and curving over the top.

4. Take off the motor rotor cover black insulation on left hand end of motor. Get used to removing the rectangle spring clips ! I find a small screw driver inserted where the clips bend out, and easy out a bit at a time on both sides. Then undo the motor cover plate screws and remove.
Undo the motor wiring.

4. Remove left hand drive shaft. From being in the way of the front right hand EME bolt.
This requires wheel removal, and all suspension bolts on the hub.
I did remove the centre hub bolt which requires a large Alan key drive and a long breaker bar. This allowed the drive shaft to be later removal. However this may not be required as pulling out and supporting may be enough. Free up sensor and e-brake wiring by pulling from clips (allows more movement). Pull the hub away from transmission.
Drive shaft should pop out of the transmission. Surport shaft and hub as best as you can not straining cables and break hoses.
I removed drive shaft and rehung on the suspension bolts.

5. Now drive shaft is out of the way the two rear upwards EME bolts can be removed. Left hand easy right required a flexible 1/4 drive to just get to it.

6. Lower engine, I think it safely lowered about 60-80mm and may go lower. Check hoses and cables for strain.

7. Disconnect all top wiring to the Eme and wiring plugs at rear but not connected to the EME. Wiring can be pull away some distance once clips are undone.

8. Feel around the front end where the EME angles down, there are 2 of the rectangle type insulation holding spring clips, struggle removing these as they are not visible, once undone the black sound proofing can be rolled back to the rear of the car, but not yet removed. Think there was a clip at the rear (remove) but mine was missing. It’s also useful to lean on….
I then undid all the small screws on top of the EME (outer ones and ring around the inner part) and removed the lid. This was to check its internal condition, and helped with clearance, but may not be required.

9. Feel a at the front end of the EME, two mounting bolts going going down will be found. Undo these.
As EME is lower than normal there was plenty of space, but not to much direct visibility.

10. Undo rear coolant pipe. I undone the 2 screws holding the fitting to the EME, then pulled it out. (It’s o-ring sealed into the EME.). While there also remove a second earth cable near the rear coolant hose.

11. Remove right hand coolant pipe via the spring clip, it then pushes away to the right.

12. Remove the 3 side HV cables, push the tabs in at end of cable connector and latching ends should spring out. Push away from socket (I used a 3/8 extension Square end.

13. Double check with hands if any other fixings…..

14. Lift up EME and pull out car backwards.
EME sound proofing was left in car as was attached to motor at a lower point.

15. Be aware it’s a big lump and a bit unwieldy!

A decent set of Torx 3/8 drive socket bits will be required, plus extensions and rachet..


It should go back just as easy….
 
Ok, here are some internal photos.

IMG_7438.jpeg
IMG_7439.jpeg

Bottom of the unit

IMG_7444.jpegIMG_7445.jpegIMG_7446.jpeg

Top.

Comparing these to the previous photos I can see the difference is pretty big between the later and early versions. There are a lot of bigger components attached to the HV connection plate !
 
Ok, here are some internal photos.

View attachment 1852
View attachment 1853

Bottom of the unit

View attachment 1854View attachment 1855View attachment 1856

Top.

Comparing these to the previous photos I can see the difference is pretty big between the later and early versions. There are a lot of bigger components attached to the HV connection plate !
The differences on the HV top plate is mainly related to the method how the low voltage is connected. Lot nicer the new one. You did a great progress. Any obvious sign of your issue?
 
Ok,
Things have taken a turn.

Checking the EME out finds no obvious issues. No burnt components or smells.
Testing the fuse finds it to be ok.

Looking further at the drive motor section I found metallic debris at the bottom of the rotor section.
I haven’t electrically tested it due to rain and snow, but looking at the pick up it look damaged.
Being a 2015 I believe the only way this occurs is a motor bearing has failed.
I am either seeing the results of the bearing failure or there has been contact at the rotor pickup.

Searching the web finds this is something that can occur to pre 2018 motors due to BMW not understanding the loads on the bearings. They changed to an angular and/or roller bearings in the later motors.

So I have looked around and found a late 2018 motor and transmission unit for under £500 (seams a bargain) and is a worthwhile upgrade.
So it now looks like I will be going that route.

Interestingly the transmission that is already in the car is dated 2020, so looks like it was previously replaced. The Motor is dated 2015.

I am hoping the short circuit and rotor position implausible faults are just (!) due to the motor ?
I am now wondering how good is the motor fault protection and will it have shut down before inverter damage ?

Getting the EME out gives a good view of the motor and transmission, both of which look removable from the Rex while not taking the whole drive assembly out of the car. Bolts look visible and the clearance looks possible.
Motor removal on its own looks possible as have perhaps 60mm clearance to pull it from the transmission spline.
But have seen that the transmission is bolted to the Rex with no clearance issues or dowels to move away from so looks easier as an assembly? (Weight yet to be assessed)

There is not much I can do while I await the motor assembly, but while the EME is out is there any easily done checks ?

Also I have the car disconnected from HV and 12v. This means the tail gate will lock if left to close. Is it ok to reconnect the 12v, so the tail gate will close ? Or is there an emergency release ?
 
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Is it ok to reconnect the 12v, so the tail gate will close ? Or is there an emergency release ?
There is no emergency release. Covering the tailgate latch with something should prevent it from locking. With the extent of your disassembly, I don't know whether connecting the 12V battery might short-circuit something. However, if you decide to connect the 12V battery, be sure that the HV disconnect is disconnected (it probably already is).
 
I usually turn the lock to lock position on the door so it is already "closed". Make sure you are not dropping the door as normal, as it could damage the catch/lock.
 
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