The ECS Tuning spacers
We'll save any discussion about spacers being good or bad for another thread. This is a review of the spacers only
You're looking at 15mm for the front and 20mm for the rear.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UojjbEpCGwG6WyE4QOi1fpdmrKN_kfqG
HUBCENTRIC
You'll notice they're hubcentric which is the ones you want. It has the lip for the wheel to rest on so it's centered nicely. Ones that aren't hubcentric are literally just a plate of metal with a big donut hole in the middle. You wouldn't be able to rest it on anything. The danger of this too is that anyone who removes the wheel to replace tires or for a tire rotation who isn't aware of your spacers will most likely have them fall off when they unmount the wheels. Typically that type of job is done on a lift and I'm not so certain about the integrity of the metal once it drops from that height. Best to go with these hubcentric ones whatever brand you choose.
NOTCH
Not all spacers will have the notch you see in the photo. I'm pretty sure this is for removing the spacer if it's stuck on too tightly with the anti-seize that you'll need to apply to both sides. Just put a flat head screwdriver into the notch and pop it off. I did it once and it worked well. Not sure how I'd do it otherwise. I guess you can manage to wedge something between the spacer and the rotor but having the notch sure helps.
PERFORMANCE
With a track width increase of 40mm in the rear (1.57") and 30mm in the front ( I had typo at first and wrote 15mm accidentally), I'm surprised the the handling difference was as noticeable as it was. The car does feel "wider". This could be b/c the car to begin with is so vulnerable when taking sharper turns at higher speeds. Any small changes translates to a noticeable difference.
Even those that don't drive the car aggressively will notice the car tends to feel like it's going to tip over at high speeds. It's a pretty sudden delivery once the tolerance is met. Matching with lowering springs and the improvement will be more drastically improved, but the spacers alone seem to give it a more planted feel on their own.
FITMENT
Those who have seen my other thread will know that I've experienced wheel poke on the driver side. The wheel sticks out further than the passenger front wheel. I had no clue this was the case b/c I wasn't looking that closely. With my originally 20mm spacers in the front which I found were too thick, the wheel poke was more apparent. The stock setup just hid the pre-existing condition. I took the car to BMW and they did their inspection, albeit by a young kid who had it on the rack for no more than 10 minutes and brought his coworkers to poke (pun intended) fun at my claim of one wheel poking out more than the other (all caught on dash cam footage) concluded that there's no issue. Long story short, the 15mm spacers fit nicely and the wheel poke isn't as apparent as it was with 20mm but more apparent than stock. Good enough for me.
Feel free to ask any questions. I'm very open to answering anything or helping out.
We'll save any discussion about spacers being good or bad for another thread. This is a review of the spacers only
You're looking at 15mm for the front and 20mm for the rear.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UojjbEpCGwG6WyE4QOi1fpdmrKN_kfqG
HUBCENTRIC
You'll notice they're hubcentric which is the ones you want. It has the lip for the wheel to rest on so it's centered nicely. Ones that aren't hubcentric are literally just a plate of metal with a big donut hole in the middle. You wouldn't be able to rest it on anything. The danger of this too is that anyone who removes the wheel to replace tires or for a tire rotation who isn't aware of your spacers will most likely have them fall off when they unmount the wheels. Typically that type of job is done on a lift and I'm not so certain about the integrity of the metal once it drops from that height. Best to go with these hubcentric ones whatever brand you choose.
NOTCH
Not all spacers will have the notch you see in the photo. I'm pretty sure this is for removing the spacer if it's stuck on too tightly with the anti-seize that you'll need to apply to both sides. Just put a flat head screwdriver into the notch and pop it off. I did it once and it worked well. Not sure how I'd do it otherwise. I guess you can manage to wedge something between the spacer and the rotor but having the notch sure helps.
PERFORMANCE
With a track width increase of 40mm in the rear (1.57") and 30mm in the front ( I had typo at first and wrote 15mm accidentally), I'm surprised the the handling difference was as noticeable as it was. The car does feel "wider". This could be b/c the car to begin with is so vulnerable when taking sharper turns at higher speeds. Any small changes translates to a noticeable difference.
Even those that don't drive the car aggressively will notice the car tends to feel like it's going to tip over at high speeds. It's a pretty sudden delivery once the tolerance is met. Matching with lowering springs and the improvement will be more drastically improved, but the spacers alone seem to give it a more planted feel on their own.
FITMENT
Those who have seen my other thread will know that I've experienced wheel poke on the driver side. The wheel sticks out further than the passenger front wheel. I had no clue this was the case b/c I wasn't looking that closely. With my originally 20mm spacers in the front which I found were too thick, the wheel poke was more apparent. The stock setup just hid the pre-existing condition. I took the car to BMW and they did their inspection, albeit by a young kid who had it on the rack for no more than 10 minutes and brought his coworkers to poke (pun intended) fun at my claim of one wheel poking out more than the other (all caught on dash cam footage) concluded that there's no issue. Long story short, the 15mm spacers fit nicely and the wheel poke isn't as apparent as it was with 20mm but more apparent than stock. Good enough for me.
Feel free to ask any questions. I'm very open to answering anything or helping out.