Yes, PLEASE, Art! I do have the 146-page user's guide, but it just convinces me that "something ain't right," because I can't get into 4.5.4, which is where the "vehicle details" are supposed to be displayed, immediately followed by testing results.
In the interim, I did manage to get BimmerLink installed, but had to put it on my wife’s phone because mine is newer and has only a USB-C connection… The adapter I bought expressly for this is the “old” lightning type. It never ends.
Anyway, BimmerLink did come up with some 39 errors, and I was/am in the process of poking through them to see what is pertinent.
But B'link is extremely difficult for me to get "connected" successfully. Out of maybe 50 tries, only one time succceeded - so I know my cable and adapter are OK, and per the above, I got a list of errors. That's when I decided I'd better go back to "units" and change to miles vs. km so I could assess more easily when the recorded errors had taken place. And of course, I can't connect again since then. IIRC the one time I *did* get connected, it was "automatic" and happened immediately after I'd finally decided to try changing some of the default settings (which didn't seem to be set up to do anything useful.)
ANYWAY: I got here trying to fix my car. Looking at the errors, a couple stand out, both brake-related.
29/ Dynamic stability control - 48070E - brake-light switch error - specifically "plausibility error," which I find amusing.
This rang a bell for me, because as a part-time driving instructor (the wife is my only student) I'd rigged the car up like a year ago with a crappy but seemingly-appropriately-cheap ebay-sourced passenger-side brake pedal. It's emblazoned with Mandarin characters, and connects via a simple bicycle-style control cable. Ir was very difficult to set up without too much slack/play in the panic-pedal...but this problem began quite some time after I'd last messed with tensioning. When just now I checked to see if the pedal was returning on its own, I couldn't really say that it was or was NOT - I mean, maybe a paper-thickness from not fully returning, if that? And I know the brake-lights being on continuously hasn't been a longstanding condition.
But the pedal-arm switch isn't a simple mechanical switch; there's no mechanical contact between it and the flat on the pedal-arm...so is it Hall effect, or a reed-switch, etc? I'm wondering whether there some crazy-high sensitivity to slight pedal pressure that I'd never have expected.
The companion error to this, maybe, is 40/body domain controller - "80409E - Brake light switch - continuous operation."
So I just got done monkeying with the cheesy cable-tensioning "adjustment" to try to be sure there's really nothing going on there. I will report back...