hamanncheese
New member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2016
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hamanncheese's DIY Installation Guide for the ClipperCreek LCS-30p
My wife and I just picked up a 2016 i3 REX and are stoked to join the EV community. Never had I thought researching an EV charger (EVSE) was going to be so difficult! There are so many versions out there with varying levels of features, amperage, cable lengths, dimensions, etc... So, I thought I'd share with you on how I decided on the ClipperCreek LCS-30p and how I saved money by installing the unit myself (following code). Hopefully this guide helps you figure out what might work for your EV, skill set, install location, and budget. I wanted a slimline, safe, upgradeable, and relatively inexpensive EVSE solution.
DISCLAIMER
This guide is written for the home DIYer and assumes the installer has a basic knowledge of electrical circuits and most importantly, common sense. Safety first! If you don’t feel comfortable at any point, please contact an electrician. Note, there are components that are always live even when the main breakers are switched off. Always follow National Electric Code: Articles 625.13, 625.18, 625.19, 625.29, and any local codes.
BEFORE YOU START
1. Determine where your breaker panel is located and how far it is from your vehicle’s charging port. In my case, the breaker was about four feet away from the i3's charging port. Look for potential areas where you could run cable from the breaker to your EV charging port. There was unused low-voltage outlet installed which I was able to repurpose and easily pull romex.
Pro tip – if you have an electric dryer in the garage, you are in good shape as there will be a dedicated 30A (minimum) circuit for you to use. Feel free to PM if you need help/assistance with going this route.
2. Service Load calculation to ensure you have enough headroom for installing the EVSE.
https://energycenter.org/sites/default/files/docs/nav/programs/pev-planning/san-diego/fact-sheets/ResComm%20EVSE%20Permit%20Guidelines%20v3_Final_attach.pdf
3. Shop around for a reputable EVSE that matches your installation requirements and budget. I choose the ClipperCreek LCS-30p due to its compact size which accommodated my install location.
A. I found an unused single-gang outlet on the opposite wall of my breaker panel. This particular outlet met code as it was 24” from the ground. However, the bottom of the EVSE needs to be installed at least 18” from the ground. This eliminates most of the EVSEs out there for me since they can be rather large. Since the ClipperCreek unit can be wall-mounted horizontally, I was able to meet code.
B. I have a storage rack preventing ease of access to the charging cable. Luckily, ClipperCreek makes a cable cradle to re-route and store the charge cable in a more convenient location. This accessory costs $19.
4. Determine breaker manufacturer and what style of breakers that are approved for your breaker panel.
5. Determine if you will need a residential permit to install the EVSE. As an example, here’s the permit application for the City of Irvine.
http://legacy.cityofirvine.org/civica/filebank/blobdload.asp?BlobID=17661
6. Research incentives for your new EVSE. You could save some additional cash! For you lucky So-Cal residents, I’ve already done the research for you –
$250 incentive towards an EVSE (LA County, Orange County, Riverside County, and San Bernardino County)
http://www.aqmd.gov/home/programs/community/community-detail?title=ev-charging-incentive
$400 incentive toward an EVSE (Pasadena)
http://cityofpasadena.net/uploadedFiles/Departments/Water_and_Power/Content/Printable%20Charger%20Incentive%20Request%20Form_20140902.pdf
$500 incentive toward an EVSE (Burbank)
https://www.burbankwaterandpower.com/electric-vehicles
Search engine for finding incentives for other parts of CA
http://driveclean.ca.gov/pev/Incentives.php?submit=submit&bev=1
There is also a federal tax rebate available – IRS form 8911 which is good for 30% up to $1,000 off the total cost of installation (EVSE + Electrician and install materials)
https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f8911.pdf
PARTS USED
1. EVSE – ClipperCreek LCS-30p (24A) | Very compact | 3 year warranty | Great reviews | UL listed | Flexible installation | 25 ft. cable | $515
https://store.clippercreek.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=122&search=lcs-30
ClipperCreek Cable cradle | $19
https://store.clippercreek.com/ev-charging-cable-hanger-cable-cradle
2. 50A NEMA 6-50 outlet | This outlet type will vary by the EVSE you choose | $10
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-50-Amp-2-Pole-Flush-Mount-Grounding-Single-Outlet-Black-R61-05374-000/202077691
3. 50A single-phase two-pole breaker | Make sure the breaker is compatible to your breaker panel | $8
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-50-Amp-2-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-HOM250CP/202353323
4. 2-Gang wall plate | $2
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pass-Seymour-2-Gang-1-Power-Outlet-Wall-Plate-Stainless-Steel-SL703CC12/202313808
5. 2-Gang old work box | $2
http://www.homedepot.com/p/2-Gang-25-cu-in-Non-Metallic-Old-Work-Switch-and-Outlet-Box-B225R-UPC/100404169
6. 6 AWG Romex (NM-B 6-2) | ~ $1.50/ft. I needed 6ft, so about $10.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-By-the-Foot-6-2-Black-Solid-CU-NM-W-G-Wire-28894499/204632776
7. Breaker grommet | You’ll need this if you’re feeding through the top/bottom/sides of your breaker panel’s knockouts | $3
8. EVSE Permit | $50
Total install cost = $35 parts + $50 permit + $515 EVSE
My labor = $Free
TOOLS USED
1. Digital Multimeter
2. Philips and flat screwdrivers
3. Wire cutter capable of cutting 6AWG
4. Wire stripper capable of 6AWG
5. Fish tape
6. Drywall utility saw
7. Level
8. Hammer and flathead (to remove knockouts in breaker panel)
9. Electrician friend
10. Common sense ***most important tool in this list ***
STEP-BY-STEP
1. Switch off the main breaker (i.e. service disconnect)
2. Remove Breaker cover
3. Run the #6 Romex cable (I used the bottom knockout and fished the #6 through)
4. Connect the 6-50 outlet to #6 Romex, install box, and install wall plate
5. Install the breaker
i) Locate two empty slots for the 50A breaker
ii) Ensure breaker is off by testing with multimeter
iii) Route the white and black wires neatly in the empty breaker space
iv) Attach the white and black wires to the breaker, then snap into the breaker panel. Ensure there is not too much tension on the breaker screws since #6 is very thick.
v) Connect ground wire to the breaker panel’s ground bus
vi) Close breaker panel and flip service disconnect back on
6. Test the installation
i) Use DMM and measure voltage across L1 and Ground, L2 and ground, and L1 and L2. You should measure around 120VAC, 120VAC, and 240VAC respectively.
ii) ***This is the best part of the install*** Plug in the EVSE and see if it powers up
7. Finish installation (For the LCS-30p, I wall-mounted it horizontally at 18" high and installed the cable cradle and cable holster about 3 ft. away for ease of access. Note, the cable cradle should be max 48" high.)
8. Charge the car and drink a beer for a job well-done!
Total time spent = about 4 hours for the install, 3 hours reading up on the NEC, 1 hour for permit stuff.
Quick review of the LCS-30p
The ClipperCreek LCS-30p is no frills, simple, and compact charger. You basically just mount it to the wall and plug it in. I like the 3 year warranty and responsive technical support. However, I wish the unit had an on/off switch as it does feel a bit warm to the touch when idling. I'll put an ammeter across the circuit to see how much it draws (i'm guessing ~5W).
Please let me know if you have any questions. Enjoy and I hope this helps out with your installation!
My wife and I just picked up a 2016 i3 REX and are stoked to join the EV community. Never had I thought researching an EV charger (EVSE) was going to be so difficult! There are so many versions out there with varying levels of features, amperage, cable lengths, dimensions, etc... So, I thought I'd share with you on how I decided on the ClipperCreek LCS-30p and how I saved money by installing the unit myself (following code). Hopefully this guide helps you figure out what might work for your EV, skill set, install location, and budget. I wanted a slimline, safe, upgradeable, and relatively inexpensive EVSE solution.
DISCLAIMER
This guide is written for the home DIYer and assumes the installer has a basic knowledge of electrical circuits and most importantly, common sense. Safety first! If you don’t feel comfortable at any point, please contact an electrician. Note, there are components that are always live even when the main breakers are switched off. Always follow National Electric Code: Articles 625.13, 625.18, 625.19, 625.29, and any local codes.
BEFORE YOU START
1. Determine where your breaker panel is located and how far it is from your vehicle’s charging port. In my case, the breaker was about four feet away from the i3's charging port. Look for potential areas where you could run cable from the breaker to your EV charging port. There was unused low-voltage outlet installed which I was able to repurpose and easily pull romex.
Pro tip – if you have an electric dryer in the garage, you are in good shape as there will be a dedicated 30A (minimum) circuit for you to use. Feel free to PM if you need help/assistance with going this route.
2. Service Load calculation to ensure you have enough headroom for installing the EVSE.
https://energycenter.org/sites/default/files/docs/nav/programs/pev-planning/san-diego/fact-sheets/ResComm%20EVSE%20Permit%20Guidelines%20v3_Final_attach.pdf
3. Shop around for a reputable EVSE that matches your installation requirements and budget. I choose the ClipperCreek LCS-30p due to its compact size which accommodated my install location.
A. I found an unused single-gang outlet on the opposite wall of my breaker panel. This particular outlet met code as it was 24” from the ground. However, the bottom of the EVSE needs to be installed at least 18” from the ground. This eliminates most of the EVSEs out there for me since they can be rather large. Since the ClipperCreek unit can be wall-mounted horizontally, I was able to meet code.
B. I have a storage rack preventing ease of access to the charging cable. Luckily, ClipperCreek makes a cable cradle to re-route and store the charge cable in a more convenient location. This accessory costs $19.
4. Determine breaker manufacturer and what style of breakers that are approved for your breaker panel.
5. Determine if you will need a residential permit to install the EVSE. As an example, here’s the permit application for the City of Irvine.
http://legacy.cityofirvine.org/civica/filebank/blobdload.asp?BlobID=17661
6. Research incentives for your new EVSE. You could save some additional cash! For you lucky So-Cal residents, I’ve already done the research for you –
$250 incentive towards an EVSE (LA County, Orange County, Riverside County, and San Bernardino County)
http://www.aqmd.gov/home/programs/community/community-detail?title=ev-charging-incentive
$400 incentive toward an EVSE (Pasadena)
http://cityofpasadena.net/uploadedFiles/Departments/Water_and_Power/Content/Printable%20Charger%20Incentive%20Request%20Form_20140902.pdf
$500 incentive toward an EVSE (Burbank)
https://www.burbankwaterandpower.com/electric-vehicles
Search engine for finding incentives for other parts of CA
http://driveclean.ca.gov/pev/Incentives.php?submit=submit&bev=1
There is also a federal tax rebate available – IRS form 8911 which is good for 30% up to $1,000 off the total cost of installation (EVSE + Electrician and install materials)
https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f8911.pdf
PARTS USED
1. EVSE – ClipperCreek LCS-30p (24A) | Very compact | 3 year warranty | Great reviews | UL listed | Flexible installation | 25 ft. cable | $515
https://store.clippercreek.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=122&search=lcs-30
ClipperCreek Cable cradle | $19
https://store.clippercreek.com/ev-charging-cable-hanger-cable-cradle
2. 50A NEMA 6-50 outlet | This outlet type will vary by the EVSE you choose | $10
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-50-Amp-2-Pole-Flush-Mount-Grounding-Single-Outlet-Black-R61-05374-000/202077691
3. 50A single-phase two-pole breaker | Make sure the breaker is compatible to your breaker panel | $8
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-50-Amp-2-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-HOM250CP/202353323
4. 2-Gang wall plate | $2
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pass-Seymour-2-Gang-1-Power-Outlet-Wall-Plate-Stainless-Steel-SL703CC12/202313808
5. 2-Gang old work box | $2
http://www.homedepot.com/p/2-Gang-25-cu-in-Non-Metallic-Old-Work-Switch-and-Outlet-Box-B225R-UPC/100404169
6. 6 AWG Romex (NM-B 6-2) | ~ $1.50/ft. I needed 6ft, so about $10.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-By-the-Foot-6-2-Black-Solid-CU-NM-W-G-Wire-28894499/204632776
7. Breaker grommet | You’ll need this if you’re feeding through the top/bottom/sides of your breaker panel’s knockouts | $3
8. EVSE Permit | $50
Total install cost = $35 parts + $50 permit + $515 EVSE
My labor = $Free
TOOLS USED
1. Digital Multimeter
2. Philips and flat screwdrivers
3. Wire cutter capable of cutting 6AWG
4. Wire stripper capable of 6AWG
5. Fish tape
6. Drywall utility saw
7. Level
8. Hammer and flathead (to remove knockouts in breaker panel)
9. Electrician friend
10. Common sense ***most important tool in this list ***
STEP-BY-STEP
1. Switch off the main breaker (i.e. service disconnect)
2. Remove Breaker cover
3. Run the #6 Romex cable (I used the bottom knockout and fished the #6 through)
4. Connect the 6-50 outlet to #6 Romex, install box, and install wall plate
5. Install the breaker
i) Locate two empty slots for the 50A breaker
ii) Ensure breaker is off by testing with multimeter
iii) Route the white and black wires neatly in the empty breaker space
iv) Attach the white and black wires to the breaker, then snap into the breaker panel. Ensure there is not too much tension on the breaker screws since #6 is very thick.
v) Connect ground wire to the breaker panel’s ground bus
vi) Close breaker panel and flip service disconnect back on
6. Test the installation
i) Use DMM and measure voltage across L1 and Ground, L2 and ground, and L1 and L2. You should measure around 120VAC, 120VAC, and 240VAC respectively.
ii) ***This is the best part of the install*** Plug in the EVSE and see if it powers up
7. Finish installation (For the LCS-30p, I wall-mounted it horizontally at 18" high and installed the cable cradle and cable holster about 3 ft. away for ease of access. Note, the cable cradle should be max 48" high.)
8. Charge the car and drink a beer for a job well-done!
Total time spent = about 4 hours for the install, 3 hours reading up on the NEC, 1 hour for permit stuff.
Quick review of the LCS-30p
The ClipperCreek LCS-30p is no frills, simple, and compact charger. You basically just mount it to the wall and plug it in. I like the 3 year warranty and responsive technical support. However, I wish the unit had an on/off switch as it does feel a bit warm to the touch when idling. I'll put an ammeter across the circuit to see how much it draws (i'm guessing ~5W).
Please let me know if you have any questions. Enjoy and I hope this helps out with your installation!
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