Stuck parking pawl from 12v death? Need help!

[Alakuu]

Looking for some help.
Drove and went to store.
Got to car. Car in flashing reboot. Oh no 12v battery issue.
Turned off headlights and heating got it to boot and go into drive.
Drove home with no issue.
When I got home I pressed the power button while in drive (I think this is the start of my problems).
Ordered battery.
Disconnected HV and 12v battery while waiting.
New battery arrived. Put on charger. Charged.
Put in new battery. Waited 20~minutes.
Engaged HV system.
Went to charge car. Car out of range of charger.
Went to pull car forward.
Car flashing that the car was in neutral not in park and needs secured.
Tried pushing car.
Couldn't push car.
Got back in car put in drive and tapped the peddle.
Grinding noise immediately pressed power button. Grinding noise stopped as soon as pressed.
I've heard parking pawls grind before. Yep that really really sounds like the parking pawl.
I've tried many things to get it to go 'back in park' so that I could then get it back into actual neutral.
What should I do here? I'm guessing either the parking module is broken (maybe that drained my battery?) or it's lost calibration and thus thinks it's in neutral but absolutely isn't.
The parking brake engage and disengage sounds like it did it's thing but didn't fix the problem.
Halp!

 

[EvanstonI3]

Pretty much exactly the same thing that happened to this guy: https://www.mybmwi3.com/threads/urgent-advice-needed-on-dead-i3-after-12v-battery-failure.19662/ Read it and see what the resolution was.

 

[Alakuu]

Pretty much exactly the same thing that happened to this guy: https://www.mybmwi3.com/threads/urgent-advice-needed-on-dead-i3-after-12v-battery-failure.19662/ Read it and see what the resolution was.

He seems to have just put a new battery in?

I've got a new battery that I charged the entire day. Read 13.7v when I pulled it off the charger.
Car isn't saying the battery is draining or anything.
Just that it's in neutral. Except the car isn't actually in neutral!


This reads almost to a T my situation.
I know the HV is at ~75-80% and it's charging right now. I'm hoping to go outside and find a working vehicle tomorrow. But if the service bulletin he mentions is correct then my parking lock module (parking pawl) is likely out of sync with the current current state and need 'calibrated?' I can't really find much in the way of 'how to do that' so my fear is this might be a dealership needs to fix it due to the service bulletin.

 

[Alakuu]

What I've managed thus far.

Got a scanner. I've reset all codes. I've run the parking pawl learning. It makes a noise like it's going in park / neutral. I haven't yet tried shifting into drive / reverse and seeing if it makes noise.
I need to do the rotor position calibration (wanted to look into how that works) came in for the day.

Error code: 222011
I'm a bit worried about running the calibration process as the tool doesn't tell me what the process is PRIOR to starting it.
I don't want to try and calibrate the motor position if it's still locked in park. Need to wait to tomorrow to have help seeing if it'll roll now that it thinks it's properly swapping from park to neutral.

Also clearing codes fixed the charge flap not functioning.
At least it's slowly coming back online!

 

[Gonville]

This is the ‘get it into Neutral’ procedure. Involving 2 selections of the N position. I’ve had to do this twice in 10 years. It is tricky as the exact timing and the words don’t quite seem to match just to say after a few tries it does work.

First time DC post went to 440v and blew the battery safety switch. Second time 12v failed pulling off the drive - probably it had just enough to start and then went sub 12v as the ancillaries kicked in - no idea but it locked into park. Flatbed both times.

 

[Alakuu]

This is the ‘get it into Neutral’ procedure. Involving 2 selections of the N position. I’ve had to do this twice in 10 years. It is tricky as the exact timing and the words don’t quite seem to match just to say after a few tries it does work.

First time DC post went to 440v and blew the battery safety switch. Second time 12v failed pulling off the drive - probably it had just enough to start and then went sub 12v as the ancillaries kicked in - no idea but it locked into park. Flatbed both times.

I saw that!
But never could understand part 3. On the I3 the gear select is always on neutral unless you're moving it to drive, reverse, or fully forward to go from reverse straight to drive. But it always returns to neutral.

Either way, I managed to fix things. I parked on a slight angle, and I think that was contributing.
Went out and tried the 'learning' process again. Wasn't shifting by my help suggested maybe pressing on the car while I try to swap to neutral and park.
That got it to change! Since then it's changed just fine.

I also had to 'program' the rotor position code. Which I'm a bit confused how or why this wouldn't be stored on stable rom! Crawling under the car to find a 6 digit code is absolutely silly compared to just having this saved somewhere!

Either way, once I managed to re-teach the parking lock, and provide the code for rotor position everything seems to be fine.
I don't understand why I drew the really short stick for the ****** 12v battery swap experience but thankfully enough 'fighting' with it got things back up and running.
A programmer that can do both the retraining and the rotor position is super nice to have and likely saved me a couple hundred at the dealer.

 

[Gonville]

I saw that!
But never could understand part 3. On the I3 the gear select is always on neutral unless you're moving it to drive, reverse, or fully forward to go from reverse straight to drive. But it always returns to neutral.

Either way, I managed to fix things. I parked on a slight angle, and I think that was contributing.
Went out and tried the 'learning' process again. Wasn't shifting by my help suggested maybe pressing on the car while I try to swap to neutral and park.
That got it to change! Since then it's changed just fine.

I also had to 'program' the rotor position code. Which I'm a bit confused how or why this wouldn't be stored on stable rom! Crawling under the car to find a 6 digit code is absolutely silly compared to just having this saved somewhere!

Either way, once I managed to re-teach the parking lock, and provide the code for rotor position everything seems to be fine.
I don't understand why I drew the really short stick for the ****** 12v battery swap experience but thankfully enough 'fighting' with it got things back up and running.
A programmer that can do both the retraining and the rotor position is super nice to have and likely saved me a couple hundred at the dealer.

Being parked on angle often causes a drivetrain error if not using the hand brake jumping out of the car can cause it to shift on the parking pawl upsetting the sensors. Doesn’t usually cause an issue - except I guess when changing 12v at the same time? - when left for 30 seconds usually resets itself. Unlucky I guess.

 

[tordon]

Reading this thread makes me think that it probably is a good idea to connect another battery to the 12V terminals on the EME in the back while performing 12V battery replacement, to prevent the control modules from losing power. Does anyone have any thoughts on why this parking lock module loss of sync occured?

 

[alohart]

I'm about to disconnect the negative cable of the 12 V battery in our i3 for over 3 months as I've done 8 times previously for periods up to 9 months in 3 different i3's. I've never suffered any problems when reconnecting the battery cable, maybe because I always fully charge the 12 V battery before reconnecting it. Low non-zero 12 V system voltage can cause significant problems, so avoiding that might be the key.

 

[tordon]

I've never suffered any problems when reconnecting the battery cable, maybe because I always fully charge the 12 V battery before reconnecting it. Low non-zero 12 V system voltage can cause significant problems, so avoiding that might be the key.

Thanks for your reply, Art.
Yes, I'm also convinced that it's important that the new or reconnected battery is fully charged....

I've got a new battery that I charged the entire day. Read 13.7v when I pulled it off the charger.

but if it read 13.7V after being charged (not while), that shouldn't have been the problem in this case, I think.