Seeking Advice on Annual Maintenance, Battery Check, and Long-Distance Suitability for 2016 i3 REx

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bmwni3

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2024
Messages
8
Hello everyone,

I'm currently driving a 2016 BMW i3 with a range extender, which has clocked in at 60,000 miles. I 've got the car last year, use it mainly for leisure, adding about 2,000 miles per year. I’m facing a few decisions and changes soon, and would love to get your thoughts:

  1. Annual Maintenance: The service light activates annually. Is it essential to have these done at a BMW dealer, or are there reliable, more cost-effective alternatives? Do I have to oil change every year or every 2 year?
  2. Battery Capacity Check: The car is nearing eight years old, and I normally charge it to 80%, giving me about 56 miles of range. Considering its age and my light usage, is a $500 battery capacity check needed? The car seems to require a functional battery for proper operation, as evidenced by a recent emissions test. What happens if the battery passes the check but then fails a few months later, especially outside the 8-year/100,000-mile warranty period? Is the check still worth it?
  3. Long-Distance Travel and Relocation: Next year, I may need to relocate to a city where a car is essential for commuting a few times a week, including a potential interstate move from California to Las Vegas. Given the i3’s limited range (72 miles on battery and 70 on gas), do you think it’s suitable for such a trip, or should I consider other vehicles?
Options I'm Considering:

  • Option 1: Keep the car this year, and possibly move with it, waiting to see if my new job necessitates a vehicle change. What happens if the battery passes the check but then fails a few months later, especially outside the 8-year/100,000-mile warranty period? Is the check still worth it?
  • Option 2: Sell the car this year and buy a new one after the move, based on my new needs. While now I don't need it for work, living outside a major city makes having a vehicle convenient. this options means i need to pay sales taxes 2 times within 3 year since I only got the car last year.
 
The main High Voltage Battery does not suddenly "fail". It just gradually provides less range over time. The sudden "fail" is the 12volt battery that is used for operation of the electronics of the car. The $500 Battery Capacity test is not for the 12v battery.
 
The main High Voltage Battery does not suddenly "fail". It just gradually provides less range over time. The sudden "fail" is the 12volt battery that is used for operation of the electronics of the car. The $500 Battery Capacity test is not for the 12v battery.
Ahhh, thank you for clarifying this! I understand now that the main battery’s decline is gradual rather than sudden. I appreciate the distinction between the high voltage and 12-volt batteries. Ensuring the car remains able to drive for occasional use is my main concern—thanks again for your insights!
 
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