Electrician quotes higher than expected

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spinball

Well-known member
Joined
May 26, 2015
Messages
270
Location
WI, USA
I'd like to check how these quotes I received compare to others who've had a 240V receptacle and/or panel run in their garage. I have received two quotes so far for the following:
  • 1. Permits
    2. 100 amp sub-panel in the garage. About 15' from the main panel on the same wall. Straight shot, just one exterior wall to go through.
    3. 50 amp 240 volt 14-50R receptacle off the side of the panel
    4. 50 amp 240 volt 14-50R receptacle on the opposite corner of the garage

I've received two quotes:
$890 including a 12 circuit sub-panel
$1270 including a 30 circuit sub-panel

Both are higher than I expected, but I suppose others may be running a single circuit with no sub-panel whereas I'm doing both a panel and two circuits in the interests of future-proofing.

Just looking for confirmation if these quotes are in the right ballpark. Also I'm kind of dismayed to find out EVSEs use different receptacles with some using 6-50 instead. Ugh.
 
For comparison (I'm in CO), I had a 40 amp circuit added to my exisiting panel, conduit two stories up the side of the house, ~130 ft. of wiring run through the attic to garage, shut off in garage and EVSE installed for $780. No permit, work done by a master electrician.
 
The numbers seem mostly reasonable.

I think the permits are what's killing you. Those are a serious time suck in many jurisdictions.
 
Thanks for the responses. I have one more quote tomorrow so we'll see. I consider this a house improvement as I don't imagine EVs will get less popular over time.

Yeah, I have heard rumors about our city being very slow to deal with. I would prefer a legit permit as I don't want any surprises when we come to sell the house. I've been the buyer in that situation and have actually cancelled an offer over it during the inspection.
 
Watch legislation, especially at the end of the year, to see if Congress renews the tax credit of 30% up to 1000 for installing a charger

Ron
 
As I read that, it could only be applied towards business use, or at least you using the vehicle for business, not strictly residential. The wording is a bit vague. The tax law also says that you have to file the AMT form to apply for the EV credit, and nearly 100% of that is related to business use...I think I got abused when I filed this year's taxes, but it would probably cost me more to fight it more for not much benefit.
 
spinball said:
Was there a federal rebate on chargers before? I've only heard of state rebates on those.

There was a federal three years ago, for residential, I know because I received it. Not sure if it still exists.
 
It was extended for residential installations for tax year 2014. The key is whether it will be extended once again. It will take a year end compromise, but if it's done, Green car reports will have an article on it. There's a tax form you had to fill out for 2014

Ron
 
cove3 said:
It was extended for residential installations for tax year 2014. The key is whether it will be extended once again. It will take a year end compromise, but if it's done, Green car reports will have an article on it. There's a tax form you had to fill out for 2014

Ron
Correct. I took the write off for 2014.
 
I'll definitely keep an eye on any changes for 2015 tax year, thanks.

Decided to just install a single receptacle for now as I can always add another one should the need arise and I can't predict what type will be needed.
 
One more question on the wiring used from my 200A main panel to the 100A sub panel in the garage.

First quote: Just says 100A from main panel to sub panel. Would need to clarify.

Second quote: "Feed for the Sub-panel will be 1/1/1/3 SER aluminum."

Third quote: "Wiring method to be either 1" thinwall conduit with (3) #3 thhn/thwn copper conductors or if available, a romex cable rated for 100A."

Does the wiring between the main panel and sub panel matter or should I just go with whatever they recommend? For all three the wiring from the sub panel to the receptacle would be 6 gauge copper.
 
ANy of those can work...AL needs to be bigger because it has more internal resistance, so larger wires offset that. AL is cheaper, but like many things, it must be done right. The connections at either end must be rated for aluminum, and it must be torqued properly with the anticorrosion paste. Copper has less issues.
 
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