drivetrain malfunction

[gqpixel]

so I got this error the other day..

Drivetrain malfunction:
continued driving is possible.
consult service center.


I did some searching and some folks said to replace the 12v battery. I did that. still same error. Do I need to reset something? Or how do I check the codes? could it be a temp sensor?

 

[frictioncircle]

Hello gqpixel –

What's your model year and drivetrain?

In general you have some options.

First, you could pick up an OBD-II (On Board Diagnostics) reader at your local auto parts dealer. Second, if you have a smartphone / tablet you could buy Bimmerlink and a Bluetooth OBD-II dongle.

Both will show you error codes, but knowing the codes (and their definitions) won't always help you solve the problem.

Do you get this message every time you drive your i3, or has it happened just once? If it's only happened once then I'd be inclined to continue to drive it normally while keeping an eye out for future errors.

 

[gqpixel]

It's a 2015 REX. Below are the results from the scan. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. thank you.



BimmerGeeks ProTool

Date: 11.14.21 02:58 PM
Chassis: I01
Model: i3 (+ REX)
Engine: -
Body Style: HAT


****************** Errors ******************
--------------------------------------------
FAMILY [VARIANTE] | CODE: DESCRIPTION
--------------------------------------------

TRSVC [ICAM_F15] | No errors found

TBX [TBX5_01] | No errors found

PMA/USS [PMA_15] | No errors found

RE_DME [RDME_I1] | No errors found

IHKA [IHX_I1] | No errors found

LHM_R [FLE_R] | No errors found

LIM/TEE1 [LIM_I1] | No errors found

EME/RLM1R [EME_I01] | 22280F: High-voltage electrical system: Isolation resistance below fault threshold value
EME/RLM1R [EME_I01] | 222814: High-voltage electrical system: Insulation resistance below warning threshold

ZGW [ZGW_01] | No errors found

GWS [GWS_I01] | No errors found

TFM [TFM_I1] | No errors found

AMP [AMPHHB20] | No errors found

KLE [UCX_I01] | No errors found

FZD [FZD_F15] | No errors found

KOMBI [KOMB25] | No errors found

LHM_L [FLE_L] | No errors found

ZBE [ZBE5_01] | No errors found

KAFAS [KAFAS20] | 800AC5: Heating camera-based driver support system: Short circuit to positive terminal or open circuit

RE_EME [REME_I1] | No errors found

ECALL [TCB1] | No errors found

SME [SME_I1] | 21F0E3: High-voltage electrical system: Insulation resistance below threshold (fault)
SME [SME_I1] | 21F0E4: High-voltage electrical system: Insulation resistance below warning threshold

DSC [DSC_I1] | No errors found

DME/DDE [EDMEI1] | No errors found

SAS/AD_PP [SAS_I1] | No errors found

HEADUNIT [NBT] | No errors found

EPS [EPS_I1] | No errors found

AIRBAG [ACSM4I] | No errors found

CAS [BDC] | No errors found

 

[gqpixel]

things led to me high voltage connector replacement? not sure the cost or if it is possible to do on my own. saw some YouTube vids from Shaun Dobble. looks like a lot of work ...might have to go to the dealership.

 

[MagicCarpet]

insulation codes on earlier Rex models was often associated with moisture in the generator windings.
Those vehicles either had the Rex gen. replaced or did some running in dry conditions to keep the moisture out. Believe improvements were made mid 2016.

 

[gqpixel]

Thanks for the response. What is the typical cost for that kinda work? and is it something that only the dealer can do? Thanks.

 

[gqpixel]

Also the more I'm researching ... it seems like I can still drive the car just not when the Extender kicks in... if the drivetrain fails because that is failing on the engine part not the electric battery.. or am I mistaken?

 

[Anonymous]

There is no 'drive train' on the engine part. The BMW 650 scooter engine in the REx i3 just turns a small generator, that then provides electricity to charge the high voltage battery.

 

[gqpixel]

There is no 'drive train' on the engine part. The BMW 650 scooter engine in the REx i3 just turns a small generator, that then provides electricity to charge the high voltage battery.

so if the 'drivetrain' doesn't turn the generator then there's no charge to the high voltage battery which could lead to a dead car? damm. so I gotta get it fixed. I was hoping that I could bypass the REx and just live off the electric battery.

 

[Anonymous]

so if the 'drivetrain' doesn't turn the generator then there's no charge to the high voltage battery which could lead to a dead car? damm. so I gotta get it fixed. I was hoping that I could bypass the REx and just live off the electric battery.

No. There is no drive train on the REx, all the REx does is run a little generator that pumps extra electricity into the HV battery as a back-up when your HV battery charge is low. You can still charge up the car normally. The REx is just back-up. I have heard of several i3's on the road with 'dead' REx motors. They just run as BEVs - may throw error codes because the REx doesn't run, but the car still works fine.

 

[gqpixel]

so if the 'drivetrain' doesn't turn the generator then there's no charge to the high voltage battery which could lead to a dead car? damm. so I gotta get it fixed. I was hoping that I could bypass the REx and just live off the electric battery.

No. There is no drive train on the REx, all the REx does is run a little generator that pumps extra electricity into the HV battery as a back-up when your HV battery charge is low. You can still charge up the car normally. The REx is just back-up. I have heard of several i3's on the road with 'dead' REx motors. They just run as BEVs - may throw error codes because the REx doesn't run, but the car still works fine.

Awesome! thanks for the clarification. I just gotta adjust my range anxiety. Appreciate it.

 

[Fisher99]

Also the more I'm researching ... it seems like I can still drive the car just not when the Extender kicks in... if the drivetrain fails because that is failing on the engine part not the electric battery.. or am I mistaken?

I'm a bit confused. Are you saying that the REX doesn't run at all? Or runs but you have the error codes? If the latter, I would try clearing the codes, running the REX, and see if the codes come back.

 

[jreyna06]

hi, i am having the same problem. was yours resolved?

i have a 2016 Rex

 

[chuckhawley]

I, too, am having peculiar messages and warnings. This morning my car was as dead as a doornail, but did manage to blow its alarm about 10 times. It was definitely trying to tell me something. (2014 REX with 68K miles). I removed the 12V battery, which was very low (9.0V) and charged it to about 80% SOC. After replacing it, all hell broke loose on the instrument panel. Message after message about failures. Hybrid system failure, dangerous to drive, can't be driven at all, etc.

1. I don't know what caused this morning's theatrics, but it seems like something discharged the battery. It had been disconnected from the 110V charger for a couple of days.
2. The 12V battery is suspect, but I can't figure out why it would not allow the car to start after charging. With the battery charger off, it reads about 12.7V which is not far off fully charged.
3. I don't mind replacing the battery but I want to have some confidence that it will solve the problems. I think it's the original battery, so 8 years old. Probably time...

Thoughts?

Chuck

 

[alohart]

1. I don't know what caused this morning's theatrics, but it seems like something discharged the battery. It had been disconnected from the 110V charger for a couple of days.

An EVSE charges the 12 V battery only when it's actively charging the high-voltage battery pack. On the first day, your high-voltage battery pack became fully-charged. After that, your defective 12 V battery discharged rapidly, probably because its capacity was very low due to its age, usage, etc., or maybe due to an internal partial short-circuit.

2. The 12V battery is suspect, but I can't figure out why it would not allow the car to start after charging. With the battery charger off, it reads about 12.7V which is not far off fully charged.

Maybe the voltage of your 12 V battery sagged too low for your i3 to enter drive readiness state due to the load of booting several electronic modules. I've noticed the voltage of even my new 12 V battery sag considerably when entering drive readiness state, so a weak battery might not be able to maintain a high enough voltage. Or, the low 12 V battery voltage sets many DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes), some of which prevent an i3 from entering drive readiness state until they're cleared.

3. I don't mind replacing the battery but I want to have some confidence that it will solve the problems. I think it's the original battery, so 8 years old. Probably time...

The problem is almost certainly your 12 V battery due to its age.

 

[chuckhawley]

Update to yesterday's post on the "dead" i3:

Charged battery for about three hours on a 6A smart charger. Reinstalled, and the car came back to life as if NOTHING had ever happened. I did have to set the time, but not the date.

However, I am pretty knowledgeable about 12V electrical systems and batteries, having worked at worked at West Marine for 30 years, been a member of marine tech boards, etc. Before I reinstalled the battery, I did a minor "load test" on it to determine if the battery was truly charged or whether it had a bad cell or overall deterioration. I connected a large bilge pump to the off-charge battery for about 30s and monitored the voltage. It dropped quickly to about 12.5V, but stayed there as the bilge pump continued to run, drawing about 7A. I know this isn't a complete capacity test, but a battery with a bad cell would show a pretty decided decline in my opinion. Ideally, I'd put a larger load on it, but it's only a 20Ah battery. I used to have a Reserve Minute test device which was totally cool where you could adjust the load on the battery and the device would turn off automatically at 1.75V per cell.

Bottom line: I think the battery HAS deteriorated enough to cause the car to go whacky when it's not left on the 110V charger, and that a new battery is the correct solution. The only question I have is whether I should also take it to the dealer to have them see if anything else is wrong.

Chuck

 

[SocalAshley]

I have a 2015 i3 with Range Extender. I had the same issue with the drivetrain malfunction. I took it to the dealer and it ended up being the condenser. I guess I hit a rock and the fluid was leaking out. Fixed the condenser and it cleared the drivetrain malfunction code.

 

[ciaranf76]

Hi, my i3 has this issue - drove on Rex fo a few minues then switeched back to electric. Drivetrain error with orange engine light. Has anyone had this fixed, if so what was the issue? My garage can't see me for another week.

 

[Essam Sedky]

Hi, my i3 has this issue - drove on Rex fo a few minues then switeched back to electric. Drivetrain error with orange engine light. Has anyone had this fixed, if so what was the issue? My garage can't see me for another week.

Check o2 sensor 1 or 2 , first you can add 10ml from gasoline fuel system cleaner liquid molly to fuel tank.if same you have to check it with ISTA, I know long time sure you solved the problem, but answer for anyone needs update for same issues

 

[Candece]

I replaced my spark plugs, fuel cleaner from BMW,and replaced the fuel relay. Now mine works. I keep an extra fuel relay fuse in the glove box. $20, easy fix, it's under the dash