Different wheels on i3?

[JBimmer]

Nice report, Thanks

Is it too much of a stretch to assume most BMW Mini wheels will work?

Oh boy. I don't know.

 

[JBimmer]

Nice report, Thanks

Is it too much of a stretch to assume most BMW Mini wheels will work?

I thought I replied to this the other day but maybe it didn't go through. Searching for wheels I found some options when I looked for Mini Cooper Clubman wheels. Maybe 2017 and newer? If I remember right these have the same bolt pattern and hub bore.

 

[TLynn]

Very nice. Looks good. On my 2019S I recently installed S001 195s on front and 215s on rear. Love the ride and performance but noticed the price has gone up. $420 each.
If I switch to your set up any reason not to go with 225s on the rear.

 

[Mustrum Ridcully]

The First sticking snow of this winter has arrived here in Maine, so I am putting on my 19" set of Blizacks 155/70R19 on each corner with their aftermarket Wheels.

Since they are all identical, they can be rotated normally to equalize the wear between the front and rear tyres.
See the photos of tread depth on all four corners at the current miles
The passenger side rear on the original tyres after 16,300 miles, just 2mm. Of course, both will be replaced in the spring.
I will keep the worn one as an extra in my barn in case of a non-repairable puncture.

I wonder if the extra wear on the right side is an object of concern.

And the driver's side is not quite as bad, showing a touch over 3.5 mm.
I have put 3,000 miles on the car since I bought it... I would see the wear on the front tyres to be expected for this millage when I was still driving my 2004 MINI Cooper S on the run-flat Dunlops it came with.
The front tyres are fine, but the passenger side is worn about 1mm more.

 

[Mondomensch]

in my barn

 

[JBimmer]

Very nice. Looks good. On my 2019S I recently installed S001 195s on front and 215s on rear. Love the ride and performance but noticed the price has gone up. $420 each.
If I switch to your set up any reason not to go with 225s on the rear.

I went with 215 on front and 235 on rear to keep as close to the original 'difference' front to back as I could. I have to trust that stability around corners and at higher speeds have been worked out by the engineers. In other words, I believe the fatter tires on the rear give the balance necessary around corners - helps prevent oversteer. And the extra camber in the rear acts as emergency grip in the event of oversteer - tire flattens out to help bring the rear end under control. Putting 215s on front and 225s on the rear would negate the cornering balance somewhat. And here's my real world example of this: With my new setup (215s and 235s), when snow first hit the ground I found a parking lot, put my car in roller mode(drift mode) to see how easily it would fish tail. It was actually really hard to get it to oversteer when going just 10 to 15 miles per hour. It understeered instead(front broke loose instead of the rear). For safety, this is what you want the car to do. Now imagine a more extreme example of this. Corning at 40 or 60, and unexpectantly hitting snow, ice or even painted lines when it's raining. If the rear breaks loose more easily than the front an oversteer can happen very quickly. And as a fun experiment, on dry pavement in roller mode and in Sport, I went around a round about. Starting around the circle at 25 or 30, I put it to the floor to get a fish tail. Worked beautifully. It stuck better than I expected so it didn't kick out as soon or as much, but I came out of the circle with a perfectly controlled slide. This is the balance I want. Hard to oversteer accidentally, but if you really want it, you can get it.

 

[TLynn]

Thanks for the update. I researched your provided part numbers and plan to do the same set up in next month. It will pay for itself very quickly with the price of 20” tires. I have a 4 gallon fuel aux tank for the Rex so any rolling resistance mileage reduction will not matter to me.

 

[JBimmer]

Thanks for the update. I researched your provided part numbers and plan to do the same set up in next month. It will pay for itself very quickly with the price of 20” tires. I have a 4 gallon fuel aux tank for the Rex so any rolling resistance mileage reduction will not matter to me.

Btw, the Yokohama tires(NEW) are about 1/4" - 1/2" shorter than the oem tires(HALF WORN). Two things to note here. 1) this threw my speedometer off by 1 or 2 mph. And 2) I originally had 30mm spacers on the front and the tire touched the back fender wall slightly when turned fully. I then put 25mm spacers on and this solved the problem. The takeaway, different tires may be closer to the oem tire height and may therefore touch.
>>> Also, I hope you dug enough into my writing to see the little modification of the rear suspension knuckle. Just shaving off the unneeded ridges. Takes almost no time but critical to do.
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Note about the speedometer: With oem wheels and tires my speedometer is off by 1 mph across the board. Speedometer showing 60mph, my actual speed is 59mph. Showing 10, actual is 9. Showing 80, actual is 79. With the Yokohama's the speedometer is off by 1-2mph more. The faster you go the more it is off. So showing 25mph, actual speed is 23mph. Showing 80, actual speed is 77mph. Not a big deal.
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Good luck with the new setup! I'm excited to see pictures and hear what you think when it's done.

 

[Marquis DeShay]

Oh boy. I don't know.

yes the bolt pat is 5X112 go on tirerack just to ck

 

[JBimmer]

yes the bolt pat is 5X112 go on tirerack just to ck

The original question was 'Is it too much of a stretch to assume most BMW Mini wheels will work?'. There is more to consider than just bolt pattern. The room left inside the rim where the brakes and part of the suspension sits is critical. The rims I choose had literally NO extra space. That is, when I put my 20mm spacer on and then carefully slipped the rim on, the suspension knuckles where right to the inside of the rim. After shaving the ridges off the suspension knuckles I estimate between 2mm and 3mm of space. So the question here is, are all 18" rims made the same on the inside? They all should be close, but I can't say definitely that they all will fit. And as a secondary note, the rims I choose had the same hub center so using hub centric spacers allows the weight of the car to be on the spacer edges and not on the bolts. Car hub: 66.6mm. Spacer ridge: 66.6mm. New rims center: 66.6mm.