Charging port solenoid

[spartacus68]

I guess with everything that's going on around the world, this is an inconvenience, but it seems that a 90 Euro part can stop my car charging. The BMW i3 is so frustrating!

So its an i3 REx, 2016.

We've had snow and temperatures have been below zero. My wife wanted the car. Charging socket was frozen, but couldn't see anything obvious as to why it wouldn't release, car was unlocked, but charger eventually freed.

I now think the locking solenoid is malfunctioning (that's the polite term)!

Car won't charge from our BMW home wall charger. I tried resetting the charger at the fuse box, same thing. Used the 13 amp house plug charger, same thing, which leads me to believe the chargers are not at fault but the locking solenoid on the car. With the car locked the charging cable can still be removed.

I can hear the solenoid trying to actuate so I think its goosed.

Luckily I have another car, so my wife can use that next week for work. I work at home since this virus crisis for the last 9 months. Seems like the i3 is going to be stuck in the drive for the time being until I can fix it.

I can do most things mechanical, so not phased about working on it. I've disconnected the high power supply under the bonnet/hood before when doing work on it before. Besides I'm not paying BMW. They ripped me off last year for a misdiagnosed fuel pump relay fault that was very expensive.

This video is very helpful. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ziVu9-v69eE&t=237s

Anything else I should check first? I don't have diagnostics for this car but suspect it will confirm the same fault given the things I've mentioned.

Car is at 50k miles so solenoid could have been on the way out anyway.

Any pointers please? I've watched another US video, but they removed the entire rear bumper/fender and the side panel! I think on my video, all bodywork can remain in position.

 

[jadnashuanh]

You might try a lock deicer and spray it into the locking mechanism...once you may get that operating, some WD-40 may help prevent it from recurring for awhile.

If there's any ice preventing the latch on the plug from fully engaging, that prevents the interlock from closing, which will prevent it from charging. Actually locking the plug in place isn't technically required, but is a safety issue. The plug's latch, though is required.

 

[3pete]

Car won't charge from our BMW home wall charger. I tried resetting the charger at the fuse box, same thing. Used the 13 amp house plug charger, same thing, which leads me to believe the chargers are not at fault but the locking solenoid on the car. With the car locked the charging cable can still be removed.

I'm less familiar with the European plug but it sounds like it maybe doesn't have a latch on the plug and relies on the solenoid to secure the connection between plug and receptacle? By comparison the US version has a latch on the plug and the solenoid 'locks' that latch. A broken solenoid in the US prevents DC fast charging, but L2 is fine because the plug can still latch (and can be unplugged by anyone walking by even if the car is locked). If my understanding from some quick googling is accurate, it does seem like the solenoid is your problem.

When you hear it trying to activate, does it sound "healthy"? When mine has crapped out on me, it has a noticeably weak sound but I wouldn't have paid attention to the normal sound enough to notice if it hadn't died on me.

Like already mentioned, you could try de-icer and a lubricant to get the solenoid moving again, otherwise you may need to replace the solenoid. I've done that (twice) and used the approach in the video you linked. I saw the one where he removes the bumper but that's not necessary. The only complicated part is removing the cover around 4:00 mark. It's tricky because you're working blind to release the latches. The only other thing is having the pentalobe security bit/driver to take the solenoid off (assuming that's the same in US/ EUR).

 

[spartacus68]

Thank you for the replies.

I will try a spray lubricant, silicone spray or Plus Gas, just something to see if that buys me a little time. It does seem that the European version is susceptible to this, and of course doesn't allow charging. You'd have thought that BMW would have stress tested this part considering its proximity to the charging door and exposure to low temperatures. It's literally a plastic module behind the body skin. It's not even insulated.

3pete, you mention does the solenoid sound healthy? I'd say it sounds weak. It sounds like something is moving, but not sure if internal teeth stripped?

Also I have various security bits, but not sure if I have the pentalobe security bit. So what is it, 5 sided star with central security nodule? Can it be ordered? I also need to get some trim tools.

Anything else I need to look at safety wise? I assume the high voltage current breaker is enough to work on this?

 

[spartacus68]

Part ordered. Coming direct from Germany. Not even sure BMW main dealer has it. Part number 61 13 6 805 425 (EU). State-side you're looking at 61 13 6 805 424 (US).

Tried Plus Gas and prodded about (high voltage off of course), no difference. I think there's a remote chance you be able to get it to work, but it's at least an hour to dismantle just to be disappointed, so ordering the part.

Keep you posted for the fix.

 

[spartacus68]

Okay, so update regards this fix.

I ordered the part back on Jan 10 from Hubauer Shop which are based in Germany. You can cross reference the part made by Küster with your VIN to avoid ordering the wrong thing. The original part went missing, even although it was delivered somewhere according to their tracking app. I emailed their office in Germany and they sent out a replacement part which arrived this week.

So heavy overnight frost here in Scotland and temperatures below zero, but at least sun was out. Waited until 11.00am and had a coffee, as this was going to be a driveway repair. The garage has a boat in it, but that's another story! :lol:

High voltage disconnected at frunk. I didn't disconnect main HV cables in boot, but according to BMW documentation that would be an extra safeguard.

Wheel arch liner off, yes there are multiple M8 hex self tappers and a couple of M10 plastic nuts.

I'd ordered trim tools, which are useful.

The only complicated part is removing the cover around 4:00 mark. It's tricky because you're working blind to release the latches. The only other thing is having the pentalobe security bit/driver to take the solenoid off (assuming that's the same in US/ EUR).

Absolutely, I ended up using a head torch to see under wheel arch and release clips that way. The rest was straight forward, but I still managed to break a plastic clip. I'm sure even BMW would do this, these really are fit and forget parts during construction and I'm sure the plastic gets brittle once disturbed.

I managed to get around the pentalobe screws using an angle grinder to achieve a better head on a flathead screwdriver. If you add a little grease then the self tappers will go back in a lot easier.

I fitted the new part, and reinstalled everything, but the error reoccurred. I hate to admit defeat, it's now 2.00pm and around a couple of hours of daylight left, so not to be put off I stripped the whole lot back out. The difference this time, on the solenoid that's held in with the two pentelobe self tappers, I removed it. There's a green rubber gasket with two holes that engages with the charger to seat properly. Now I'm sure this was aligned before, but to test pull the blue emergency release nylon to test. This time the locking solenoid engaged and disengaged and I could see it working manually.

Picture of the solenoid here: https://ibb.co/YDc3PY0

Reinstalled everything and thankfully I've fixed it. In better weather this is a straight forward fix. You ideally want to be in a workshop out of the cold with plenty light though as it is fiddly.

Anyway, thanks for the guidance.