Can not select “park”

[Marky421]

Yesterday I drove my 14 i3 rex normally and when I got home I noticed an alarm when I parked onto my driveway. The selector couldn’t get into “P”. Then I noticed a ton of malfunctions and thought maybe it was my auxiliary battery. I replaced that today. Registered it. Tried to clear all the codes and a bunch remained. At the moment, I can select drive or reverse, but the car doesn’t move when I press the accelerator. The display does say I can drive tho. The car will not lock from the outside and there is a horn when I try to lock with the key fob. I’ve tried gently tapping the park actuator with no luck unless I’m too gentle at that. I’m attaching the error reports if anyone can kindly help me troubleshoot. I’m pretty good with a wrench and I’d like to avoid a hefty service bill if this is a job I could do myself. Any help would be appreciated. tia

0A Range extender electrical machine electronics

21DDD0: REME Inverter, power-reduced operation: temperature threshold exceeded
CB940A: A-CAN, message (specification operating range Range Extender, 0x0AA): missing

1A Electrical machine electronics
1 error
222828: Checkcontrol 175: gear position P disturbed!

1D Hybrid pressure refuelling electronic control unit
1 error
1D0019: LINIF_E_RESPONSE

29 Dynamic stability control MK60 E5
5 errors
03064A: QDM-LAEPS - Calculation of extrapolation of mechanical power EPS not possible 030647: QDM-LAEPS - Calculation of parking algorithm not possible
030648: QDM-LAEPS - Calculation of algorithm turning not possible
0305A7: QDM-QEI - inputs not valid SBS
030645: QDM-KOORFV - Forced activation DSC

30 Electric steering lock
1 error
482451: Sensor - rotor position - steering angle - loss of multiturn value

60 Instrument panel
1 error
E12C3C: Interface DME, DDE (status of engine fuel consumption, 0x2C4): Signal invalid

 

[frictioncircle]

Hello Marky421 and welcome to the forum!

I agree with your decision to replace the AUX 12V battery and register it.

That your problem continues suggests that the replacement AUX 12V battery may not have been fully charged when you installed it.

Can you remove it from the car and use an external charger to top it off?

 

[alohart]

Can you remove it from the car and use an external charger to top it off?

It's not necessary to remove the 12 V battery to charge it with an external battery charger. I do this every year before and after we store our i3 while we travel for 3 months. Connecting the positive charging cable isn't as easy as I would prefer due mostly to the red plastic cover over the terminal, but there's enough exposed metal to make the connection.

 

[Marky421]

Hello Marky421 and welcome to the forum!

I agree with your decision to replace the AUX 12V battery and register it.

That your problem continues suggests that the replacement AUX 12V battery may not have been fully charged when you installed it.

Can you remove it from the car and use an external charger to top it off?

So I took out the battery 2 days ago and I topped it off. It did take a couple hours to fully recharge the battery. I plugged it all back in and I still can't get it to Park or move for that matter. I can put it in D and R but no acceleration happens. It still goes to "N" when I try to park. I still can't get the door to lock from the outside. I'm kinda thinking this is some kind of "limp mode" so it can be towed? I read somewhere someone said "it took a couple power cycles" to correct the problem. Does this suggest I should top it off again? I'm kinda frustrated at this point. Prior to this I did get a "battery discharging while stopped" warning for months and I thought maybe it was because of my dashcam. Any suggestions?

 

[Marky421]

Can you remove it from the car and use an external charger to top it off?

It's not necessary to remove the 12 V battery to charge it with an external battery charger. I do this every year before and after we store our i3 while we travel for 3 months. Connecting the positive charging cable isn't as easy as I would prefer due mostly to the red plastic cover over the terminal, but there's enough exposed metal to make the connection.

Thanks, I was wondering if this mattered and would help alot from removal just to top off. If I have to do another top off I will try this, but yeah the positive cover was my concern as well. I am using a charger/maintainer that has smaller style clamps so hopefully its not a problem.

 

[alohart]

So I took out the battery 2 days ago and I topped it off. It did take a couple hours to fully recharge the battery. I plugged it all back in and I still can't get it to Park or move for that matter. I can put it in D and R but no acceleration happens. It still goes to "N" when I try to park. I still can't get the door to lock from the outside. I'm kinda thinking this is some kind of "limp mode" so it can be towed? I read somewhere someone said "it took a couple power cycles" to correct the problem. Does this suggest I should top it off again? I'm kinda frustrated at this point. Prior to this I did get a "battery discharging while stopped" warning for months and I thought maybe it was because of my dashcam. Any suggestions?

As you've experienced, low 12 V system voltage can set all sorts of diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's), some of which prevent normal functionality until they're cleared. If you haven't cleared DTC's after fully charging your 12 V battery, I suggest trying that.

Also, some have reported improvement after their i3's have "slept" overnight. Various modules power down after an i3 has been shut off for a while, and when they restart, some of the problems can go away. These might be the power cycles that others have referred to rather than recharging the 12 V battery.

The "battery discharging while stopped" warning occurs when the 12 V system voltage decreases below some threshold. It doesn't always indicate a failing 12 V battery as some assume. This message was periodically displayed in our infrequently driven i3 for over a year. When it occurred, I charged its 12 V battery with a battery charger which eliminated the message for a few months. If your dash cam is always connected, I would think that would discharge the low-capacity 12 V battery significantly, maybe enough to trigger the "battery discharging while stopped" warning, especially after periods of no driving. Maybe turn off your dash cam until you solve your current problem.

 

[briantompo]

Marky421,
Have you resolved this? I have the same issue with my 2016 REx; can’t move nor shift into park after 12v battery replacement & registration. If I shift to D & depress accelerator, car makes an unhealthy gear chattering noise without moving.

My car sat for a week w/ high voltage disconnect pulled awaiting replacement battery. New AUX18L battery was charged to 13.2V before installation. Bimmerlink initially found 132 errors in “info memory” but after multiple restarts and code clearing, I’m down to 7 codes in “Error memory” and 2 in “Permanent Errors”. They differ from yours.

I’ll start a separate thread if necessary but it sounds like the same issue.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[Marky421]

No not yet. I’m going thru my codes and I think the car needs to be recoded.

 

[briantompo]

I was unable to resolve my car’s unwillingness to drive or shift into park so I had it towed to the dealership. Their corrective action was to perform “parking brake initialization” and “rotor position switch calibration for transmission.”
In hindsight, I should have replaced the 12v battery proactively as I got less than 1 day’s notice from the very first sign of trouble & the car becoming a brick. All told, it cost me $1100 when the 12v battery died.

 

[andynrx]

Hi there
Did you manage to fix this?

I have exactly the same errors and also recently changed the 12v battery,
Reme inveter - temperature threshold exceeded
sensor rotor position loss of multiturn value
Calculation of parking algorithm not possible

 

[BL5]

I ran into all sorts of issues with my 12V on my (sold) 2015 REx. From what I have read, the longer the car sits with a dead 12V the more difficult it is to clear the DCT’s.

I had a 36 hour battle with a 12V, what ended up fixing my issue was BimmerLink. I was able to clear all the errors, and eventually the car would take a L2 charge again.

My suggestion is DON’T WAIT! Replace the 12V at month 48 after car goes into service.

 

[Drummo]

I’m suffering exactly the same. This seems to be quite a regular issue, I don’t see how to fix it

 

[EvanstonI3]

I’m suffering exactly the same. This seems to be quite a regular issue, I don’t see how to fix it

someone else on Reddit just posted that they had no way of letting the car sit while being plugged in, but they let it sit overnight without being plugged in and the car "fixed itself". This is the second time I recall someone posting that simply letting it sit for maybe 24 hrs WITHOUT being plugged in has "fixed" everything. Most people don't seem to do a follow up post once their car is working again.

 

[Drummo]

fingers crossed. Ive changed the 12v battery. Its fully charged but ive left it on a trickle charger tonight to top it off. Lets see how that goes. Tomorrow i'll leave unplugged