2017 REX package dead for several months. Now car has started losing power while driving.

[AZElle]

Hi all! Desperate for help with my 2017. 61k on it.

About a year ago, I noticed a burning smell when the REX was engaged. I rarely EVER used it, but had used it more often after a move to Texas.

Dealership in Austin, TX told me it was a leaking gasket on a strut. Replaced all that. Problem continued. Next time I went in, they told the me REX had died - catastrophic failure and they had no idea how it happened or why, but that it would cost - EIGHTEEN THOUSAND DOLLARS to fix it. They assured me that I could drive the car and it would just try to run the REX maintenance and would give up when it couldn't. Needless to say, I picked up the car and have never gone back. The car has done that several times since with no apparent problems. Just tries to run it, then gives up.

Yesterday, the car started to try and run the REX maintenance again. This time, it seemed to keep trying and I can see that the gas level is going down. (I do keep a small amount of gas in it still.) Noticed that the car was making a noise while running, sort of like during the maintenance cycle, but more quiet and steady.

Now the car has started to just stop while I'm driving. I'm driving with the accelerator engaged and then it just starts to slow and then coast to a stop. I can pull over, rest for a few minuets, start again, and the same cycle continues.

I limped home doing this - so stressful.

The battery was replaced in 2019 by the Tucson dealership.

I'm hesitant to take it back to the dealership because they seem to have zero idea what they're doing, but honestly have no idea how to proceed.

I'm a single woman with zero car knowledge and I always feel like I'm just a sitting duck.

Any hand holding available?

Really want to just get out from under this car, but feel like I can't even sell it at this juncture. SOB

Thanks so much for any advice!

 

[robthebold]

If your car won't hardly go, check the "power bars". When you look at the display over the steering column, do you see the usual number of bars or are there fewer than normal? For example, here's mine on a coldish day, there's 4 bars on the right (ePOWER) side -- way fewer than normal, that's bad -- so drive power is diminished -- in this case just due to the cold motor/battery/etc.:

OTOH, here's mine again, and although it's now pretty warm, I've got "full bars" -- 8 I think -- that's good:

If you've got fewer than all 8 bars, your car's telling you something's wrong and the drivetrain can't give full power. If you're having to pull over all the time, I'd think it would've shown an error, but maybe not.

 

[EvanstonI3]

If your car was never "coded" to change when the REX kicks in, that would explain a lot because it means you are running the car down to low single digit levels of battery charge. Normally a working REX would kick in when the Battery Level drops to 6%. If this is true, stop driving the car when it is that low of a charge.

 

[AZElle]

If your car won't hardly go, check the "power bars". When you look at the display over the steering column, do you see the usual number of bars or are there fewer than normal? For example, here's mine on a coldish day, there's 4 bars on the right (ePOWER) side -- way fewer than normal, that's bad -- so drive power is diminished -- in this case just due to the cold motor/battery/etc.:
View attachment 1060
OTOH, here's mine again, and although it's now pretty warm, I've got "full bars" -- 8 I think -- that's good:
View attachment 1061
If you've got fewer than all 8 bars, your car's telling you something's wrong and the drivetrain can't give full power. If you're having to pull over all the time, I'd think it would've shown an error, but maybe not.

Thank you for responding. I'm going to go look at that and will report back!

 

[AZElle]

If your car was never "coded" to change when the REX kicks in, that would explain a lot because it means you are running the car down to low single digit levels of battery charge. Normally a working REX would kick in when the Battery Level drops to 6%. If this is true, stop driving the car when it is that low of a charge.

Thank you for responding. Im not sure if it was coded. I have a call in to the dealership, so hopefully they can tell me. They do, at least, keep good records at dealerships. I guess the most confusing thing is that its been several months of behaving well, this just started. Going to look at how many bars are showing...

 

[AZElle]

Thank you for responding. I'm going to go look at that and will report back!

It's got a strong 8 bars showing. The noise the car is making feels worrisome. You know how the REX sounds when the maintenance is run? it's not that sound. It sounds almost exactly like a vacuum cleaner noise. Reved up, for lack of a better description.

 

[alohart]

Im not sure if it was coded. I have a call in to the dealership, so hopefully they can tell me. They do, at least, keep good records at dealerships.

Your BMW dealer won't code an i3 to allow the REx engine to be started manually whenever the charge level is less than 75%. That's something that you would have to do using the BimmerCode smartphone app (~$40 licensing fee to activate) coupled with an OBD to WiFi or Bluetooth adapter ($24). It's not difficult but definitely worth doing to avoid losing propulsive power when the charge level decreases too low. If this change has already been made, there's a way to turn on the REx engine from within iDrive. Someone who owns a REx would need to explain where that is in iDrive.

 

[chaseadam]

I don't have a link, but I recall there being a simple "unplug this" solution to preventing the REx from starting without disabling the car. I doubt it will fix your power problem, but at least will keep you from running the REx to the point of ripping itself apart (if it hasn't already). A simpler option would be to get someone to drain the fuel tank.

 

[robthebold]

If your car was never "coded" to change when the REX kicks in, that would explain a lot because it means you are running the car down to low single digit levels of battery charge. Normally a working REX would kick in when the Battery Level drops to 6%. If this is true, stop driving the car when it is that low of a charge.

I didn't read in the OP's message that the high voltage battery was low . . . I reread it, but I'm still missing that part. I am -- as the kids say -- confuse.

 

[AZElle]

My charge level was at 100.

 

[robthebold]

My charge level was at 100.

That definitely makes it sound like the Rex thing, though a problem, is not the problem that's keeping your car from going. I've found my local dealer is pretty good about getting the car in and diagnosed when I report "drivability issues". That might spur your local dealer into action as well, telling them to just ignore the Rex problem for the time being except maybe draining the fuel, and just focus on the electric drive system. (And really, with a quote of $18k to replace the Rex -- more than similar cars are selling for on Carvana -- they really just don't want to deal with that problem anyway.)

 

[marKhani]

Hi all! Desperate for help with my 2017. 61k on it.

About a year ago, I noticed a burning smell when the REX was engaged. I rarely EVER used it, but had used it more often after a move to Texas.

Dealership in Austin, TX told me it was a leaking gasket on a strut. Replaced all that. Problem continued. Next time I went in, they told the me REX had died - catastrophic failure and they had no idea how it happened or why, but that it would cost - EIGHTEEN THOUSAND DOLLARS to fix it. They assured me that I could drive the car and it would just try to run the REX maintenance and would give up when it couldn't. Needless to say, I picked up the car and have never gone back. The car has done that several times since with no apparent problems. Just tries to run it, then gives up.

Yesterday, the car started to try and run the REX maintenance again. This time, it seemed to keep trying and I can see that the gas level is going down. (I do keep a small amount of gas in it still.) Noticed that the car was making a noise while running, sort of like during the maintenance cycle, but more quiet and steady.

Now the car has started to just stop while I'm driving. I'm driving with the accelerator engaged and then it just starts to slow and then coast to a stop. I can pull over, rest for a few minuets, start again, and the same cycle continues.

I limped home doing this - so stressful.

The battery was replaced in 2019 by the Tucson dealership.

I'm hesitant to take it back to the dealership because they seem to have zero idea what they're doing, but honestly have no idea how to proceed.

I'm a single woman with zero car knowledge and I always feel like I'm just a sitting duck.

Any hand holding available?

Really want to just get out from under this car, but feel like I can't even sell it at this juncture. SOB

Thanks so much for any advice!

So sorry to hear of your issues, especially as I, too, own a 2017 with Rex (since it was new).
The bad news for us, is (or should that be "the bad news are") that:
1) the car is Different, and now out of production;
2) BMW want all their customers to HAVE to go to them for service (hence no competition);
3) you admit to "zero car knowledge" on a technically complicated car.

Don't beat yourself up, nor allow others to beat you up.

The YouTube has been a good source for me to learn about some of this stuff. I didn't even know that there was a little, old-fashioned, 12 V battery. Sound like you learned the hard way. I am still on the original, but can see that is in my future.
Always be ready to negotiate repair / warranty. An engine (meaning the gasoline, not the "electric motor") that runs so seldom, AND is less than 10 years old, has NO excuse for dying, and ought to be covered by BMW. Especially if you are original owner. Do you / they have service records showing oil changes?
My horror story was over an oil change. My dealer is 55 miles away, so there and back is farther than the battery can do, and I end up switching to REx part way home. I pulled into the garage, and before I was even out of the car, my wife noticed the car was smoking...badly. Afraid of a fire that might engulf the whole house, I immediately backed out. Shot some video, and sent it to my service manager. They sent a truck, took it back, diagnosed service error, fixed and returned the car. They also offered a loaner car. All no charge (as it should have been). Had I not been driving as a steady speed over 30, then I might have notice a smell. The engine running with no filler cap on top will slosh oil, that then dribbles down, usually finding its way on to one of the MANY hot things, and then smoking/stinking. If this goes on too long, there will be insufficient oil in the engine and you engine Dies (that is a vague, technical term that allows one to avoid figuring out just what failed).
I think that they have done you wrong. The dealership is likely relatively poor and will be reluctant to pay for what may have been another dealer's error. But ANY BMW dealer, who wants your business, should be willing to act as your agent to get BMW corporate to help out here. Ask!
Do you a) know how to check your oil level?
Do you b) Check your oil level once a whatever?
Most of us are bad about this good habit.
It involves opening the hatch. Remove the floor cover, usually a piece of carpet. Unscrewing by hand a yellow plastic cover. This exposes the dip stick. Lots of YouTube videos. 50 years ago, you would have asked the kid, like me, who pumped your gas to "Check the Oil!"

Hopefully, someone on this site can point you to a Good or Excellent BMW of Austin guy.


best wishes.
Mark

 

[EvanstonI3]

My charge level was at 100.

Does the A/C work on the car? Check it and see. If the A/C is busted in some way, that would interfere with the cooling of the battery pack and the result may be that you get limited power as you describe. If the REX is non-functional but "something else" is making that noise, it may be the A/C compressor trying to work. I don't know, I am just guessing.

By "Battery replaced in 2019" I am assuming you mean the 12v battery, not the Main High Volt Battery. If it was last replaced in 2019, you are overdue to have it replaced again. A failing 12v battery can cause all sorts of strange things to happen. My neighbor has a 2019 model and I got him to replace the 12v battery last April BEFORE it went bad. I kept the original battery to check it periodically and it eventually failed completely 3 months later.

 

[Leroy Jackson]

Hi all! Desperate for help with my 2017. 61k on it.

About a year ago, I noticed a burning smell when the REX was engaged. I rarely EVER used it, but had used it more often after a move to Texas.

Dealership in Austin, TX told me it was a leaking gasket on a strut. Replaced all that. Problem continued. Next time I went in, they told the me REX had died - catastrophic failure and they had no idea how it happened or why, but that it would cost - EIGHTEEN THOUSAND DOLLARS to fix it. They assured me that I could drive the car and it would just try to run the REX maintenance and would give up when it couldn't. Needless to say, I picked up the car and have never gone back. The car has done that several times since with no apparent problems. Just tries to run it, then gives up.

Yesterday, the car started to try and run the REX maintenance again. This time, it seemed to keep trying and I can see that the gas level is going down. (I do keep a small amount of gas in it still.) Noticed that the car was making a noise while running, sort of like during the maintenance cycle, but more quiet and steady.

Now the car has started to just stop while I'm driving. I'm driving with the accelerator engaged and then it just starts to slow and then coast to a stop. I can pull over, rest for a few minuets, start again, and the same cycle continues.

I limped home doing this - so stressful.

The battery was replaced in 2019 by the Tucson dealership.

I'm hesitant to take it back to the dealership because they seem to have zero idea what they're doing, but honestly have no idea how to proceed.

I'm a single woman with zero car knowledge and I always feel like I'm just a sitting duck.

Any hand holding available?

Really want to just get out from under this car, but feel like I can't even sell it at this juncture. SOB

Thanks so much for any advice!

Why is this car not in the shop. At 61k it should still be covered by the powertrain warranty, especially if you took it to the shop for powertrain issues. Read your warranty for your area, you should be good either miles or years.

 

[Allenpien]

Hi all! Desperate for help with my 2017. 61k on it.

About a year ago, I noticed a burning smell when the REX was engaged. I rarely EVER used it, but had used it more often after a move to Texas.

Dealership in Austin, TX told me it was a leaking gasket on a strut. Replaced all that. Problem continued. Next time I went in, they told the me REX had died - catastrophic failure and they had no idea how it happened or why, but that it would cost - EIGHTEEN THOUSAND DOLLARS to fix it. They assured me that I could drive the car and it would just try to run the REX maintenance and would give up when it couldn't. Needless to say, I picked up the car and have never gone back. The car has done that several times since with no apparent problems. Just tries to run it, then gives up.

Yesterday, the car started to try and run the REX maintenance again. This time, it seemed to keep trying and I can see that the gas level is going down. (I do keep a small amount of gas in it still.) Noticed that the car was making a noise while running, sort of like during the maintenance cycle, but more quiet and steady.

Now the car has started to just stop while I'm driving. I'm driving with the accelerator engaged and then it just starts to slow and then coast to a stop. I can pull over, rest for a few minuets, start again, and the same cycle continues.

I limped home doing this - so stressful.

The battery was replaced in 2019 by the Tucson dealership.

I'm hesitant to take it back to the dealership because they seem to have zero idea what they're doing, but honestly have no idea how to proceed.

I'm a single woman with zero car knowledge and I always feel like I'm just a sitting duck.

Any hand holding available?

Really want to just get out from under this car, but feel like I can't even sell it at this juncture. SOB

Thanks so much for any advice!

I have a rather bizarre suggestion for you: The Rex engine on the I3 is a BMW motorcycle engine. If you do some research, you just might find a place that works on MOTORCYCLES and deals with BMW engines. Maybe, just maybe they will be able to fix it and no motorcycle engine is anywhere near $18,000. This just may be a way for you to get your baby back on the road. Also, Check out the Rich Rebuilds site. They might have some other ideas. The real problem is the lack of aftermarket shops that work on EVs.

 

[Leroy Jackson]

That’s correct, a 650cc motor I believe…

However my previous comment remains, unless something has happened to the car to void the powertrain warranty which is at least 8 years or 100k, why mess around.

 

[Candece]

They assured me that I could drive the car and it would just try to run the REX maintenance and would give up when it couldn't.
You need to replace the pump relay. It's a $25 part and can be accessed under the dashboard. I'm 55 and watched a video and did it myself. It took about 45 minutes. See link below for video.

This next link is a tool that plugs into your OBD port under the dash and it will help you analyze what is wrong with the car now and in the future.
2024 LAUNCH X431 Elite for BMW OBD2 Scanner, Full System Diagnostic Bi-directional Scan Tool, All Reset Services, ECU Coding, Battery Registration Tool for BMW/MINI/Rolls-Royce,Lifetime F-ree Update https://a.co/d/9uIjVTs
This next link is a socket set that fits all the screws on the car in order to do any basic maintenance
NEIKO 10071A 13-Piece Torx Bit Socket Set, S2 and Cr-V Steel, 1/4-Inch, 3/8-Inch and 1/2-Inch Drive, 2mm to 14mm, Torx Bit Set, Torque Bit Set, Torx Socket Set https://a.co/d/4hjEbDs
This is the relay part that you will need
BMW (1992-2011) Multi Purpose Relay 4-Prong (Sky Blue) https://a.co/d/hjZoK72
This car is quirky but with the scanner and basic tools and this group you should be able to overcome majority of issues with the car without getting scammed at the dealership. They took me for $1000 when I knew what was wrong. They tried to tell me it was something else and I'm mad at myself for not seeing what they were doing. The scanner has given me the confidence to be able to research and try and fix it myself within reason.

 

[AZElle]

So sorry to hear of your issues, especially as I, too, own a 2017 with Rex (since it was new).
The bad news for us, is (or should that be "the bad news are") that:
1) the car is Different, and now out of production;
2) BMW want all their customers to HAVE to go to them for service (hence no competition);
3) you admit to "zero car knowledge" on a technically complicated car.

Don't beat yourself up, nor allow others to beat you up.

The YouTube has been a good source for me to learn about some of this stuff. I didn't even know that there was a little, old-fashioned, 12 V battery. Sound like you learned the hard way. I am still on the original, but can see that is in my future.
Always be ready to negotiate repair / warranty. An engine (meaning the gasoline, not the "electric motor") that runs so seldom, AND is less than 10 years old, has NO excuse for dying, and ought to be covered by BMW. Especially if you are original owner. Do you / they have service records showing oil changes?
My horror story was over an oil change. My dealer is 55 miles away, so there and back is farther than the battery can do, and I end up switching to REx part way home. I pulled into the garage, and before I was even out of the car, my wife noticed the car was smoking...badly. Afraid of a fire that might engulf the whole house, I immediately backed out. Shot some video, and sent it to my service manager. They sent a truck, took it back, diagnosed service error, fixed and returned the car. They also offered a loaner car. All no charge (as it should have been). Had I not been driving as a steady speed over 30, then I might have notice a smell. The engine running with no filler cap on top will slosh oil, that then dribbles down, usually finding its way on to one of the MANY hot things, and then smoking/stinking. If this goes on too long, there will be insufficient oil in the engine and you engine Dies (that is a vague, technical term that allows one to avoid figuring out just what failed).
I think that they have done you wrong. The dealership is likely relatively poor and will be reluctant to pay for what may have been another dealer's error. But ANY BMW dealer, who wants your business, should be willing to act as your agent to get BMW corporate to help out here. Ask!
Do you a) know how to check your oil level?
Do you b) Check your oil level once a whatever?
Most of us are bad about this good habit.
It involves opening the hatch. Remove the floor cover, usually a piece of carpet. Unscrewing by hand a yellow plastic cover. This exposes the dip stick. Lots of YouTube videos. 50 years ago, you would have asked the kid, like me, who pumped your gas to "Check the Oil!"

Hopefully, someone on this site can point you to a Good or Excellent BMW of Austin guy.


best wishes.
Mark

Thank you so much, Mark. I appreciate all this.

 

[AZElle]

They assured me that I could drive the car and it would just try to run the REX maintenance and would give up when it couldn't.
You need to replace the pump relay. It's a $25 part and can be accessed under the dashboard. I'm 55 and watched a video and did it myself. It took about 45 minutes. See link below for video.

This next link is a tool that plugs into your OBD port under the dash and it will help you analyze what is wrong with the car now and in the future.
2024 LAUNCH X431 Elite for BMW OBD2 Scanner, Full System Diagnostic Bi-directional Scan Tool, All Reset Services, ECU Coding, Battery Registration Tool for BMW/MINI/Rolls-Royce,Lifetime F-ree Update https://a.co/d/9uIjVTs
This next link is a socket set that fits all the screws on the car in order to do any basic maintenance
NEIKO 10071A 13-Piece Torx Bit Socket Set, S2 and Cr-V Steel, 1/4-Inch, 3/8-Inch and 1/2-Inch Drive, 2mm to 14mm, Torx Bit Set, Torque Bit Set, Torx Socket Set https://a.co/d/4hjEbDs
This is the relay part that you will need
BMW (1992-2011) Multi Purpose Relay 4-Prong (Sky Blue) https://a.co/d/hjZoK72
This car is quirky but with the scanner and basic tools and this group you should be able to overcome majority of issues with the car without getting scammed at the dealership. They took me for $1000 when I knew what was wrong. They tried to tell me it was something else and I'm mad at myself for not seeing what they were doing. The scanner has given me the confidence to be able to research and try and fix it myself within reason.

Woah, thank you so much! I'll investigate since I'm at a total loss as to what to do right now.

 

[AZElle]

I have a rather bizarre suggestion for you: The Rex engine on the I3 is a BMW motorcycle engine. If you do some research, you just might find a place that works on MOTORCYCLES and deals with BMW engines. Maybe, just maybe they will be able to fix it and no motorcycle engine is anywhere near $18,000. This just may be a way for you to get your baby back on the road. Also, Check out the Rich Rebuilds site. They might have some other ideas. The real problem is the lack of aftermarket shops that work on EVs.

OK, this sounds manageable, thank you! I've called 3 EV shops in Austin, a major city, and NONE of them wanted to touch the i3. WTF?