2015 i3 Rex rear camera failure

[Lxer96]

Hello,
Recently, my 2015 i3 back up camera has stopped working. At first, it displayed gray lines with an orange traffic cone. Then sometimes it would display a garbled image for just a moment and the screen would go black, but still contain the proximity sensor data on the screen. Now, it never displays an image at all. My thought is the camera failed, but I am taking some steps to attempt to troubleshoot the camera because not much info on the workings of the camera can be found online.

First, the hatch is shut properly.
Second, the camera is switched on in the options, but the icon is gray and is not selectable.
Third, the 12v battery is a year old Remy battery that was coded by me after . After removing the rear bumper and unplugging everything. I get exactly 12v at the camera plug. Using the legs of an old led, ground is the pin hole with the black wire and power is the green wire with blue stripe. 12v is kind of low even though it is a 12v battery, so I removed the battery and placed it on the charger, which read 60% charge. Will update as this progresses.

 

[Lxer96]

Charging the 12v battery resulted in no change. Next step is to replace the camera since the module seems to be working.

 

[frictioncircle]

Something to consider... a broken wire in the harness where it enters the hatch? A broken hatch switch?

When the hatch is open, the iDrive display shows a diagonally hashed image with a traffic cone – the camera isn't obstructed in this situation (as it's in the bumper) but the driver is shown a blanked rear view to make the driver aware that the hatch is open.

If the car thinks the hatch is always open then it would never display camera video.

 

[Lxer96]

Replaced camera with a new one. Problem solved. They don't make it easy. The camera isn't held in by screws... Once you remove the rear bumper and unplug the proximity sensors, the lights and the camera, the camera itself is attached to the bumper in a little plastic bracket that is held on with double sided tape. You could push the camera out forcefully, but the bracket would likely end up broken. Pry the bracket off and remove the tape along with all of its residue. The camera can be removed by prying on the tabs that hold it in near the lens and gently pushing in on the lens. It pops out through the rear of the bracket. The camera only fits in one way, so when popping the new one in, you can't mess it up. Place new automotive grade double sided adhesive on the bracket, and press it back into place on the bumper following the installation lines molded into the bumper. On mine, the side of the camera with the circular indentation faces upwards. Plug everything back in and reinstall the bumper.

 

[Lxer96]

Well... Almost fixed. The camera works, but the red and green guide lines are kind of aiming skyward. The camera is properly installed. I think it's a calibration issue. Now to figure out how to do that.... Will post it once I have the answer.

 

[frictioncircle]

Lxer96 –

Wow, thanks for posting your experience – I would have expected a wiring harness problem long before a camera failure!

Do you have a good relationship with a local auto body shop? They (or one of their contractors) will have the tools to calibrate a new camera to the steering-angle sensor.

 

[Lxer96]

Downloaded ISTA+ and waiting on the e-net cable to arrive. Should be able to calibrate the camera myself.

 

[baz99]

Thanks for the information. I'm currently in the process of removing bumper and camera/bracket from same.... I was really scratching my head wondering how to get the camera out before I found your information. My camera orientation, 2017 I3, is round marking downwards. I've opened the camera and all the electronics is easily removed so I'll try drying it in the oven there was some misting on the inside of the lens but none that I could see in the electronics. I'll probably order another one if I can get it for a decent price otherwise this one is going back on if I can get the lens to clear.

 

[Lxer96]

No problem. I may have to amend my post about the orientation. I just put it back in the way it came out. I still have my old camera with a clear lens if you want it. It never clouded up. Something in the circuitry probably failed. If you pay shipping, I’ll send it out. I took it apart before. There are three circuit boards on the inside kind of sandwiched together. The guts can be removed and yours can be swapped in.

 

[baz99]

Sent you a PM thanks

 

[Lxer96]

Camera reprogrammed and working fine finally. Enet cable and ISTA+ is the way to go.

 

[baz99]

Glad to hear you sorted it out in the end. The ISTA+ that you refer to..... is this the same as Bimmer code or Biimmer link. I have an OBDLINK bluetooth device that I can use with these programs. I've bought a new camera and just getting prepared in case I need to re-calibrate.

 

[baz99]

Fitted my new camera and the lines are pointing upwards. What did you have to do to correct this?

 

[jadnashuanh]

Glad to hear you sorted it out in the end. The ISTA+ that you refer to..... is this the same as Bimmer code or Biimmer link.

No, they are very different. With ISTA+, you have essentially complete control of the software in any module and not understanding what you're doing, you can really mess things up! Well, in expert mode, you can mess things up with BimmerCode, too, but it's more extreme with ISTA. For simple things, BimmerCOde is super easy and it makes backups for you. I'm not saying that ISTA is hard, it's different, with a much steeper learning curve.

 

[baz99]

can you remember what values that you changed? I'll probably get it done at a local coding shop but would be helpful if I can show him what needs changing

 

[Lxer96]

You have to download and install the software. I forget where I got it from but if you do a websearch, you'll find it on another BMW forum. You have to have a ludicrous amount of hard drive space available for full functionality. 500GB if I recall. You'll need an e-net to OBD2 cable to interface with the car.

The interface is really simple actually. You input the VIN, the program checks for all error codes and gives you a plan to correct each one. The plan has detailed instructions which walks you through each step of how to code the camera. It'll restart the Idrive a few times but afterwards, you'll be good to go. A local shop quoted me $175 to code it in case you want to go that route. I like to DIY stuff to learn more about my equipment.

 

[navster]

What is the part number for the camera? I think I have the same problem with my 2015.

 

[alohart]

What is the part number for the camera?

Search realOEM.com.