2014 i3 12V Battery charge

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Mat Kramer

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Sep 24, 2024
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Hello. I have a 2014 i3 with no range extender. Recently I went to start it after it had been sitting idle for a few weeks and I started getting a slew of errors starting with "drivetrain failure". A little bit scary but after some googling I determined it was a depleted 12V battery. I tested the battery and it was low. I put it on a trickle charger overnight and in the morning it seemed back to normal. While I was charging I ordered an OBD reader and BimmerLink. I saw a bunch of errors, mostly due to undercurrent but all auto-cleared. I have been driving it normally since then.

So my question is, should I get a new 12V battery? I assume it's not normal for the battery to deplete after a few weeks, but I'm not sure if it was slowly degrading or not. I can keep an eye on the voltage now. I'm not sure how old the battery is. I bought the car used almost 2 years ago. I'm thinking this event indicates a weak battery and with winter coming (Minnesota) I should probably get a new one.

Also, it's not clear to me how the 12V battery gets charged. Does it only charge while driving and is it only from the regenerative braking or is there an alternator continually charging? Does it charge at all from the L1 charger connection?

Thanks!
 
Get a new battery. A healthy battery would have been fine sitting for 2 weeks.
The 12v battery is charged when:
1: The car is “ON” Driving or not does not matter.
2: When the car is being charged.
3: When the battery voltage discharges to 12.0 volts, the car will come on by itself to boost the 12v for exactly One Hour ( there is a possibility that this does not happen on some early models though)

There is no “alternator” in this car.
Instead there is a DC-DC converter that takes the High Voltage from the main battery and converts it to 14v to charge the 12v battery.
 
Does it charge at all from the L1 charger connection?
And yes, all the time that the car is on charge, the 12V battery should be charged too [edit: just realised that EvanstoneI3 has already said this]. Much of the car "stays awake" during charging so, for example, the internal 12V outlets inside the car stay powered-on all the time that charging is under way.
 
3: When the battery voltage discharges to 12.0 volts, the car will come on by itself to boost the 12v for exactly One Hour ( there is a possibility that this does not happen on some early models though)
I'm not aware of any documentation for this feature which my 12V system logger has recorded on several occasions. However, it has happened as high as 12.5V. I wish I understood the conditions required for automatic 12V battery charging to occur.
 
3: When the battery voltage discharges to 12.0 volts, the car will come on by itself to boost the 12v for exactly One Hour ( there is a possibility that this does not happen on some early models though)
I can confirm that early models do this as well. My 12v battery lasted for 10 years (well, less but I did not notice) and never stranded because of no 12v power -but in the end I think the car kept topping up the worn-out battery, until I replaced it. It just kept some charge that way, enough to not noticing the worn 12v battery in daily usage. The constant topping up did start to drain the main battery though, so I got the "excessive drain" message that alerted me at last. Just in time, lesson learned.
 
Get a new battery. A healthy battery would have been fine sitting for 2 weeks.
The 12v battery is charged when:
1: The car is “ON” Driving or not does not matter.
2: When the car is being charged.
3: When the battery voltage discharges to 12.0 volts, the car will come on by itself to boost the 12v for exactly One Hour ( there is a possibility that this does not happen on some early models though)

There is no “alternator” in this car.
Instead there is a DC-DC converter that takes the High Voltage from the main battery and converts it to 14v to charge the 12v battery.
Thanks for the information. Exactly what I was looking for!
 
Get a new battery. A healthy battery would have been fine sitting for 2 weeks.
The 12v battery is charged when:
1: The car is “ON” Driving or not does not matter.
2: When the car is being charged.
3: When the battery voltage discharges to 12.0 volts, the car will come on by itself to boost the 12v for exactly One Hour ( there is a possibility that this does not happen on some early models though)

There is no “alternator” in this car.
Instead there is a DC-DC converter that takes the High Voltage from the main battery and converts it to 14v to charge the 12v battery.
To item 2: Is that the case on DC as well as AC charging?
 
Hello. I have a 2014 i3 with no range extender. Recently I went to start it after it had been sitting idle for a few weeks and I started getting a slew of errors starting with "drivetrain failure". A little bit scary but after some googling I determined it was a depleted 12V battery. I tested the battery and it was low. I put it on a trickle charger overnight and in the morning it seemed back to normal. While I was charging I ordered an OBD reader and BimmerLink. I saw a bunch of errors, mostly due to undercurrent but all auto-cleared. I have been driving it normally since then.

So my question is, should I get a new 12V battery? I assume it's not normal for the battery to deplete after a few weeks, but I'm not sure if it was slowly degrading or not. I can keep an eye on the voltage now. I'm not sure how old the battery is. I bought the car used almost 2 years ago. I'm thinking this event indicates a weak battery and with winter coming (Minnesota) I should probably get a new one.

Also, it's not clear to me how the 12V battery gets charged. Does it only charge while driving and is it only from the regenerative braking or is there an alternator continually charging? Does it charge at all from the L1 charger connection?

Thanks!
I just replaced what I believe was a 6-9 year old 12 volt in my 2014 i3. I got strange error messages too. One day (this was kind of terrifying I don't recommend it) she was all the way totally "dead". I had to find the manual frunk unlock, find the awesome ATV battery that costs $100 on Amazon that fits the 2014 i3 perfectly (I didn't research any other models) and my motor service dude installed it for me free of charge. I was willing to do it myself but the i3 12v battery is so hidden and awkwardly placed I decided to let a pro do it.
 
Not throwing any shade towards Mavourneen19, but for anyone reading this who is curious, the exact replacement battery for the i3 is the Remy/East Penn Aux18L, available for around $155 plus shipping. It is a bit awkward to change, and took me about 30 minutes the last time I did mine. (Not nearly as awkward as my former Chrysler 300M, which required me to remove the passenger front tire and extricate the battery from inside the inner fender!) You may also want to get BimmerLink to register the new battery to the car. There is vigorous debate on this site and others as to whether or not this is actually necessary. I did it to mine if for no other reason than that the battery change is now part of the car's maintenance history for me or possibly the next owner.
 
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