Vehicle For Sale 2014 BMW i3 Rex with 60k

[Whereitis]

I'm selling my 2014 i3 Rex for $9500. It's in great condition especially for its age, only has 60k miles on it, no moonroof or leather, hsoc already programmed and works great, good set of tires on 19" pizza pie rims, and I also have a full set of snow tires on a 2nd set of rims. Both sets of tires have about half their life left. Car runs perfect, no codes of any kind, I'd never part with it except for the 2022 RAV4 Prime I have parked next to it. Full set of Weathertech floor mats. Drives like a dream - first one who looks at it will buy it.

 

[alohart]

Having purchased 2 used i3's remotely, I and probably others would like more information.

Where are you located?

The second photo includes optional 20" wheels that you aren't advertising. Is this the i3 that you are selling but without these wheels?

Assuming that this is a U.S. i3, it is the lowest trim level, Mega World. In 2014, this meant that it is missing some features that higher trim levels and later i3's included like, if I recall correctly, Comfort Access, Universal Garage Door Opener, some interior LED's, etc. (please correct me if I'm wrong).

DC fast charging was optional in 2014. It's difficult to see in the side photo, but it appears that there are no DC charging pins. Please clarify.

Does it include the Tech & Driving Assist package (wider iDrive screen, adaptive cruise control, ADAS system), Park Assist package (reversing camera, rear ultrasonic obstacle sensors), or Harman Kardon entertainment system?

Do both front seat heaters work?

As the previous owner of a 2014 i3 BEV that I bought new and whose battery pack degraded more rapidly than I expected, I would want to know about the condition of the battery pack. You have posted that its summer range estimate was ~60 miles dropping to ~45 in cold weather. Please report the battery pack's state of health as displayed by the mi3, Electrified, eFlow, or ISTA app or the Batt. Kapa. max value displayed in its service menu. These are only calculated estimates that can change with temperature, charge level, etc., but they're at least an indication of the battery health. At least with a REx, the battery pack health isn't as important as with a BEV unless driving without burning gasoline is important,

 

[Whereitis]

Are you looking at my i3 for yourself? I I'll be pleased to provide all details by private message if you are interested in buying my car.

 

[mfogarty]

Are you looking at my i3 for yourself? I I'll be pleased to provide all details by private message if you are interested in buying my car.

It would help you sell the car better if you just put all the details requested on here so other potential buyers can see.

 

[alohart]

Are you looking at my i3 for yourself? I I'll be pleased to provide all details by private message if you are interested in buying my car.

No. Having just experienced a situation in which a remote purchaser bought a 2014 i3 BEV from its original owner only to discover that its battery pack is in such terrible condition that he won't be able to use his i3 as planned. The original owner must have known about this problem but didn't disclose it and refused to refund the purchase price.

If you don't want to post more information, that's certainly your right.

 

[Whereitis]

What are you, the ad police?

 

[alohart]

What are you, the ad police?

Yep. Several members i3 Facebook groups have been scammed recently by unscrupulous sellers. One way to minimize the risk would be for sellers to be more transparent about what they're selling. If you're unwilling to do that, some potential buyers might conclude that buying your i3 is too risky.

 

[mojo]

What are you, the ad police?

It really is in your interests to make your advert as informative as possible. One of the predictable things about scam adverts is that they almost never say where the car is, for example. That's typically so that, wherever the buyer happens to be, they can make it so that the car is many miles away, and cannot realistically be seen at short notice.

The numbers of scammers on forums and FB groups has got to such a level that people will pick up on things that don't quite look right - such as two photos of the car with different wheels. There's no point in giving a semi-hostile reaction to someone that points these things out to you.

 

[Whereitis]

Anyone paying attention will see I've been posting about my i3 for several months, and if genuinely interested in my particular car they can contact me and I'll answer their questions and send them the VIN so they can do all the research they like. I just won't answer random questions from lookie-loos.

 

[mojo]

That's Ok. Most people like to deal with other people that are amenable and helpful. It can be useful to gauge what a deal with someone might be like, by seeing how they interact with other people on forums.

 

[JohnnyCakes]

I'm torn. After reading the first message, I was *extremely* interested. But after reading the rest of this thread, my radar has gone off and I'm out.

 

[Whereitis]

You said,
"Having purchased 2 used i3's remotely, I and probably others would like more information.
Where are you located?"

I'm in northeast Connecticut USA.

"The second photo includes optional 20" wheels that you aren't advertising. Is this the i3 that you are selling but without these wheels?"

I have a set of the 20" wheels with different tires that I bought after buying the car, and I put the original 19" "pizza pie" wheels back on the car when I decided to sell it, since I have a separate buyer for the 20" wheels (unless the buyer of the car wants them too, in which case let's talk about it). As I said, I also have a third set of 19" (non-staggered) wheels with snow tires on them.

"Assuming that this is a U.S. i3, it is the lowest trim level, Mega World. In 2014, this meant that it is missing some features that higher trim levels and later i3's included like, if I recall correctly, Comfort Access, Universal Garage Door Opener, some interior LED's, etc. (please correct me if I'm wrong)."

This car is the Mega World model, so it has only what that model comes with plus some specific options listed below.

"DC fast charging was optional in 2014. It's difficult to see in the side photo, but it appears that there are no DC charging pins. Please clarify."

"Does it include the Tech & Driving Assist package (wider iDrive screen, adaptive cruise control, ADAS system), Park Assist package (reversing camera, rear ultrasonic obstacle sensors), or Harman Kardon entertainment system?"

This particular i3 Rex came with the Parking Assist Package so it has the backup camera. It also has DC Fast Charging, and the charger that came with it has an adaptor for use with high-voltage home chargers, although I myself only charge it using a 110V outdoor GFI outlet. My i3 has the standard stereo system, which works fine.

"Do both front seat heaters work?"

One of this car's few options is Front Heated Seats, however the driver's seat has the common failure in that it turns on for a few seconds when activated, then turns off. I'm told to repair this is a $1000 job if done by a dealer, but takes only a $20 part if done yourself (if you're handy with such things). The price of the car is negotiable to reflect this.

"As the previous owner of a 2014 i3 BEV that I bought new and whose battery pack degraded more rapidly than I expected, I would want to know about the condition of the battery pack. You have posted that its summer range estimate was ~60 miles dropping to ~45 in cold weather. Please report the battery pack's state of health as displayed by the mi3, Electrified, eFlow, or ISTA app or the Batt. Kapa. max value displayed in its service menu. These are only calculated estimates that can change with temperature, charge level, etc., but they're at least an indication of the battery health. At least with a REx, the battery pack health isn't as important as with a BEV unless driving without burning gasoline is important"

In my uneducated experience the battery pack in this car seems just fine. As I said in the summertime it gets about 60 miles on electric only, which has dropped to about 40 miles of range in the dead of winter. The Rex delivers about 80 miles in summer, also dropping a bit in winter. As I mentioned in my first post, a previous owner set up HSOC so that I'm able to turn on the Rex as soon as the battery percentage drops below 75%. This has been a boon on longer drives, as I like to maintain the state of charge until able to top off the Rex tank on the way home and finish the drive on electric only. On shorter drives (when I'm sure I'll have charge left over by the time I get home), I typically run on electric only to save gas. I'm not familiar with some of the more esoteric functions of these cars such as mi3, eflow or other thing you mentioned, so I can't speak to specifics regarding the overall technical condition of the HV battery. Nor am I aware of how to check or calculate these things using the tools you mentioned, although anyone who comes to see my car is welcome to do so. But it has never failed me nor has any kind of weird code ever appeared, so my confidence level in this car is very high and had I not come across a great deal on a hybrid car I like even better (RAV4 Prime), I had planned to use this car as my daily driver for several more years. I will say the i3 definitely drives and handles better than the Toyota, so in some ways I will dearly miss this car.

My car was missing a few items when I bought it, so I have added them myself. This includes a hinged cover for the rear cargo area, although one of the clips was broken with the one I bought, so it hangs by one of its strings (the other one is there, it just needs the end replaced). My i3 also came with only one keyfob. I bought a second one from the dealer I bought the car from, which was ordered from BMW after supplying them with my registration and VIN, so I know it is a correct and legal keyfob. However I do now have the knowledge to program it to my car, so it does not work (but should be an east fix for someone who knows about these things). The only other thing wrong with my i3 is there's a bit of wear on the edge of the driver's seat where you'd typically slide into the seat as you enter the car, but overall the interior is in excellent condition as is the body.

I've had numerous replies to the ads I've posted about this car in a few places, including many lowball offers, but no one has actually come to see or drive the car yet and as I've said, I expect the first one who does so will buy it. I've lost patience somewhat with many of the questions I've gotten which reflect the asker having not actually bothered to view my ad before asking (such as "Is this still available?", the most commonly asked question by FB users). I was also disconcerted by your questions, since you asked many of them yet clearly were not actually looking to buy my car. But I see now that users of this forum are somewhat more sophisticated in their general knowledge of these cars, and so the questions I've fielded here (even from members not actually interested in buying my car) are far more more specific and correct than those I get from the more generic ad platforms, and I've learned a lot about my own car just from have been asked them. I originally posted the ad using my phone so it was inconvenient to post correct pics or long replies to questions. I hope this post clears up some of those concerns and anyone who might be interested in my i3 will take another look. Thanks for your time.

 

[mojo]

I bought a second one from the dealer I bought the car from, which was ordered from BMW after supplying them with my registration and VIN, so I know it is a correct and legal keyfob. However I do now have the knowledge to program it to my car, so it does not work

From memory of other threads (here or elsewhere) the dealer should (in theory) have provided you with simple instructions for activating the new key. The description that I have heard is that you just have to hold the key in the "emergency detection" position on the steering column for 20 seconds and it should activate it. AFAIK no programming should be needed.

 

[Whereitis]

I'll try that, and thanks!

 

[mojo]

That's secondhand info (I've never had to replace a key on mine) so it may not be 100% correct, but if it fails, it would be worth asking the dealer - as I understand it, the programming is done away from the car and although the activation sequence may not be exactly as described (I don't for example know what you see on the car's screen during the process) it's reputed to be simple.