No level 3 charging

[artcore]

Hi all. New member here - thanks for having me.

I just bought a 2017 i3Rex from my local BMW dealer a couple of days ago. However, I cannot get it to DC fast charge. Lvl 1 and lvl 2 work just fine.

Tried three different Electrify America pumps, all confirmed working. I know about raising the cable up, etc. Nothing. Followed internet advise to start the charging from my phone before inserting, still always get "Error xxx"

Went to the Mercedes dealer who has a lvl 3 on a different network, the orange waiting light comes on but the system only says "Waiting for EV".

The car is set to charge immediately, and this is my 4th EV, so I'm not really new to this, just to the i3.

Am I missing something here, or is it likely that there is a fault with the lvl 3 charging board in my car? The dealer says they will make it right. I just want to make sure that I'm not forgetting something stupid before I bring it in.

TIA, from cold Eugene, OR.

 

[agzand]

Scheduled charging etc. apply to Level 1 and 2 only, shouldn't impact DC Fast charging.

I have charged on EV GO, Electrify America and Volta networks, sometimes it takes some effort to start the charge (usually payment verification is the culprit and charging session times out), but once you do everything right it should work.

 

[artcore]

Yeah, I've tried it at least 30 times now on 5 different chargers and 2 networks. That can't be right. Everyone else at those stations just plugged in a voila. I suspect a faulty board or something. Bringing it in to service.

 

[artcore]

The problem was the locking pin actuator, which was not functioning. BMW replaced it and now it works.

 

[BL5]

The problem was the locking pin actuator, which was not functioning. BMW replaced it and now it works.

Having the same issue with my 2017 with 66k, won’t DCFC. Just started last week.

Was the repair expensive?

 

[SSi3]

The problem was the locking pin actuator, which was not functioning. BMW replaced it and now it works.

Having the same issue with my 2017 with 66k, won’t DCFC. Just started last week.

Was the repair expensive?

As a quick fix, WD40 the locking pin at the top of the charge port.

The locking pins on early i3's were weak, I had a 2015 and it gave me some DCFC issues, just WD40'ed it and never had another issue. But once I got my 2019 i3s, it was very obvious by the sound of the pin actuator that they changed it somewhere along the way (maybe with the 2018 LCI) and its much faster and stronger sounding, not a single issue with my 2019 in the nearly 4yrs i've had it.

 

[BL5]

I’ll try the WD-40 trick.

Does it not use the same lock for L2 charging? When the car is locked and charging on L2, the charging handle is locked. This is by design so people cannot unplug a charging car. Curious if this was a sign my locking pin was still functional.

 

[EvanstonI3]

Does it not use the same lock for L2 charging? When the car is locked and charging on L2, the charging handle is locked. This is by design so people cannot unplug a charging car. Curious if this was a sign my locking pin was still functional.

hmmm, if the charging handle is LOCKED on L1 or L2 when you lock the car, that would indicate the charging lock pin is functioning.
Check it again and see if this is still the case. It could have failed recently or it could just need some lubrication. If it still locks the charging handle, then something else is wrong.

 

[SSi3]

Ya it does use the same pin as L1/L2, but i think the key is that the pin doesn't have to lock the handle to the car for L1/L2 to start, so it could fail or not extend fully and you'd never know it. Whereas for DCFC the pin must lock the handle and confirm that to the charger before the two will shake hands and start charging. So if the pin is sticky and the actuator doesn't fully extend then its a fail.

 

[BL5]

Ya it does use the same pin as L1/L2, but i think the key is that the pin doesn't have to lock the handle to the car for L1/L2 to start, so it could fail or not extend fully and you'd never know it. Whereas for DCFC the pin must lock the handle and confirm that to the charger before the two will shake hands and start charging. So if the pin is sticky and the actuator doesn't fully extend then its a fail.

I got some WD-40 today and sprayed lock pin area (right above the J-1772 connection). Went to EA, same thing yellow light flashed, then got error on screen, flashed white.

I suspect it’s the locking pin as you described. Probably not going to be a cheap BMW repair. At least I have L2 and a REx! Still makes 150mi trips a bigger pain. Maybe I’ll try another CCS handle besides EA. EA hates my i3 as it is!

One other thing I noticed, when I plug into L3, the car flashes yellow.. In the past I have not been able to release the CCS handle (while flashing yellow, had to wait until white)… Now since my No L3 charging issue stated, i can release the handle while it’s flashing yellow. Is this because the locking pin won’t engage?

 

[SSi3]

I got some WD-40 today and sprayed lock pin area (right above the J-1772 connection). Went to EA, same thing yellow light flashed, then got error on screen, flashed white.

I suspect it’s the locking pin as you described. Probably not going to be a cheap BMW repair. At least I have L2 and a REx! Still makes 150mi trips a bigger pain. Maybe I’ll try another CCS handle besides EA. EA hates my i3 as it is!

One other thing I noticed, when I plug into L3, the car flashes yellow.. In the past I have not been able to release the CCS handle (while flashing yellow, had to wait until white)… Now since my No L3 charging issue stated, i can release the handle while it’s flashing yellow. Is this because the locking pin won’t engage?

Try cycling the lock pin after WD40... stand by the charge port door with a J1772 plugged in, fob in hand and lock/unlock the car multiple times, listen for the pin to move in and out.

And yep thats exactly it for the L3, yellow means the car and the charger are communicating so the pin should be locking the handle to the car at that point.

 

[BL5]

I got some WD-40 today and sprayed lock pin area (right above the J-1772 connection). Went to EA, same thing yellow light flashed, then got error on screen, flashed white.

I suspect it’s the locking pin as you described. Probably not going to be a cheap BMW repair. At least I have L2 and a REx! Still makes 150mi trips a bigger pain. Maybe I’ll try another CCS handle besides EA. EA hates my i3 as it is!

One other thing I noticed, when I plug into L3, the car flashes yellow.. In the past I have not been able to release the CCS handle (while flashing yellow, had to wait until white)… Now since my No L3 charging issue stated, i can release the handle while it’s flashing yellow. Is this because the locking pin won’t engage?

Try cycling the lock pin after WD40... stand by the charge port door with a J1772 plugged in, fob in hand and lock/unlock the car multiple times, listen for the pin to move in and out.

And yep thats exactly it for the L3, yellow means the car and the charger are communicating so the pin should be locking the handle to the car at that point.

I tried this today, plugged in J-1772, started charging (flashing blue)… Locked car with remote. I could hear something in the charge port area for 2 seconds, sounds like the pin trying to lock down. Cycled that a few times.

When the car is locked, and it’s flashing blue (charging) I am able to pull the J-1772 handle out. My understanding is I should not be able to remove a charge handle (when charging) while car is locked.

Does this mean the locking pin is the issue for my L3 charge? Meaning even if locking pin does not function, L2 works, but L3 will not?

 

[EvanstonI3]

When the car is locked, and it’s flashing blue (charging) I am able to pull the J-1772 handle out. My understanding is I should not be able to remove a charge handle (when charging) while car is locked.

Does this mean the locking pin is the issue for my L3 charge? Meaning even if locking pin does not function, L2 works, but L3 will not?

Yes. The locking pin is not necessary to enable L1/L2 charging but it is required for L3.
You did the right test to see what the issue probably is.

 

[BL5]

Appreciate everyone’s advice on this topic, this website had been invaluable to an i3 owner. After plenty of WD-40, I cannot get the charge pin lock to work, won’t even lock on L2.

After some research, I decided to take the project on myself. My local BMW dealer has the part in stock, BMW Part# 61-13-6-805-424 (called an socket) and it retails for $129.24. Fortunately I am able to use a friend’s wholesale BMW account and get 25% off list. You can find the part online. I needed mine sooner as not having CCS makes me nervous.

$96.16 here
https://www.bmwpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/bmw-socket-61136805424

Found a great YouTube video on how to install.
https://youtu.be/ziVu9-v69eE

 

[SSi3]

Good luck BL5! Let us know how it goes.

 

[BL5]

Good luck BL5! Let us know how it goes.

Mission accomplished, new part is in. Now J-1772 handle locks on L2 (when doors lock) and takes a DCFC. big relief.

The security screws to get the part out are very difficult, in fact they pissed me off so bad I replaced them with something much easier to service.

I watched step by step the YouTube video, it’s spot on. Did not remove wheel liner or tire. The other change is the US part security screws are much more difficult to remove than the EUR model.

One missing thing from the video is I suggest disconnecting main HV battery before starting.

 

[spartacus68]

One missing thing from the video is I suggest disconnecting main HV battery before starting.

Good news. Working on this without isolating HV would be madness. I’ve done the same repair. If you’re in Europe you can order from Hubauer Shop or indeed main dealer. I also removed the wheel liner to access. It’s a bit of fiddle of a repair. The WD40 hack is probably short-lived. The solenoid if weak will eventually fail.

 

[SSi3]

Good luck BL5! Let us know how it goes.

Mission accomplished, new part is in. Now J-1772 handle locks on L2 (when doors lock) and takes a DCFC. big relief.

The security screws to get the part out are very difficult, in fact they pissed me off so bad I replaced them with something much easier to service.

I watched step by step the YouTube video, it’s spot on. Did not remove wheel liner or tire. The other change is the US part security screws are much more difficult to remove than the EUR model.

One missing thing from the video is I suggest disconnecting main HV battery before starting.

Great to hear, well done!!