No audio from speakers

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Juaning

New member
Joined
Jan 18, 2022
Messages
4
2015 Rex no sound from speakers. Blue tooth devices all been kicked off. All audio from FM GPS, xm all off. No warning sound for parking distance.

No fuses blown.


Not on mute tried volume button push.
Tried reboot at odometer button .


Head System keeps crashing and rebooting every 5 min while driving .

I don't know if this is original 12v battery .

Do you think low battery would do this?

I have all driving functions ok and operational .

Someone posted a no sound problem earlier and I'm wondering if it was solved by author .

Thanks for any support .
 
If the 12V auxiliary battery is original to your 2015 REx then I'd recommend replacing it. The errors you mention are in pattern with what other owners have seen.

A search of the forum / Internet for "AUX battery replacement" should return helpful links as to how to physically do the swap.

Having done one myself, I'll add a few suggestions:

– Buy your AUX18L battery from Remy (US$140).

– Once it arrives, use a battery charger to make sure it's fully charged before installation.

– After installation, register the battery to the car. Registration lets the car know that it has a new battery so it can apply a charging regimen appropriate for a new battery as opposed to one that's seven years old. Battery registration is something that you can do with a mobile app like BimmerLink. To use BimmerLink you'll need to purchase the app (US$36) plus a Bluetooth->OBD-II adapter (US$42).

All of the above comes to about $220 (plus sales tax) which is still more economical than taking your i3 to a dealer for this service. A US dealer will charge $400-$600 for 12V battery service.
 
I have tested the terminal at the center console (plug for lighter accessories) at 14.9 vdc but not sure this represents the actual battery voltage as the main battery system needs to be turned on in order to run accessories.

I can’t seem to reboot the idrive by holding volume for 20-30 sec .

I may need to pull battery to check state of charge alone .

Thank you for your reply.
 
Juaning said:
I have tested the terminal at the center console (plug for lighter accessories) at 14.9 vdc but not sure this represents the actual battery voltage as the main battery system needs to be turned on in order to run accessories.
Open the frunk before you go to sleep. You can close it so that the first latch catches but don't close it all the way because opening it with your fob would turn on the high-voltage system which could start charging the 12 V battery (the 14+ V you measured). The next morning, open the frunk without unlocking the doors and measure the 12 V battery voltage. Allowing the battery to sit overnight without being charged would allow you to measure its true resting voltage.

If the resting voltage seems low and you have a 12 V battery charger, disconnect the high-voltage disconnect and charge the battery. Then connect the high-voltage disconnect and repeat the measurement process above to read the resting voltage. If it still seems low, your battery probably needs replacing.
 
Great advice as always, alohart!

Juaning, the auxiliary 12V batteries last about six years. If the one in your 2015 is original to the car then it's likely that it is at the end of its service.
 
Same issue! Looking for help as well. No sound the past few days but head unit and nav work. I replaced the 12v with a lithium about 2 weeks ago(people seem to have strong opinions one way or the other with a lithium 12v replacement, might be related).
Also my 12v outlets in the center console and under dash are out but the one in rear is working. fuses look ok.
~~~

2014 rex, harmon stereo. I bought w 13k miles-April 21 and now at 49k. Driving with rex on roughly half the time on I-5 in california. Replaced rear tires twice, oil change, alignment are only service I’ve done. Currently on Nokian all season but open to suggestions for tires suitable for towing 2000 lbs regularly.

Probably unrelated: I installed a tow hitch recently and want to add a wiring set for lights.
Any problems with adding this to the 12v?) I carry an extra battery/generator (2000w max, 1500 whr) in the car to charge devices, mini fridge, or use for charging car in emergency, can use that for power to trailer lights except for brake lights. I plan to keep this battery/generator in trailer with solar panels and a possibly a small wind turbine.
 
hemptruckEV42 –

Regardless of whether it's lead-acid or Li-ion, your new 12V battery must be fully charged before installation.

Swapping out a dead OEM lead-acid battery for a Li-ion battery that's been sitting in retailer's stock for the past 18 months is very likely going to perpetuate the problems with your i3.

Can you pull the new 12V battery and charge it externally?
 
frictioncircle said:
Can you pull the new 12V battery and charge it externally?
I've been able to charge the 12 V battery in place and without removing the frunk box. Attaching the positive charger cable to the battery's positive post isn't as easy as I would like, but I've done it many times. Always disconnect the high-voltage disconnect prior to charging.
 
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