Level 2 Installation - Disconnect Box recommended??

[steveheaven79]

I already have 50 amp box with 240v prewired in the garage..so no need to run one .. home builder included this since it's new build ..
I am a little scared of this doing it myself. Never done this kind of work in my life..and very close to paying $300 - $500 for the install..however I wanted to give it shot here if I can do it myself..with less stress..

I consulted with local electrician though ..i showed them the pics above. He told me just connect L1 and L2 and black and white one - copper one in the center...

Lastly, the electrician told me i should get disconnect box just in case there is something wrong with the charger to prevent to blow the entire fuse box..

Are you guys who have level 2 in the garage have this kind of setup?

 

[I33t]

Your car charge circuit is 50A, your car only pulls 30-32A. How can the car charger "blow the entire fuse box"

Won't the 50A breaker drop out if there is a short circuit?

We put a disconnect box in for convenience and to eliminate the (low) current draw from the EV charger when not in use. It gets turned off after use.

 

[psquare]

Hi Steve,

Please don't take this the wrong way, but whilst I understand the urge to economise, I have to admit that I would shy away from doing this type of work. Unless I really, really knew what I was doing. What would you say if something goes wrong during charging, which might cause damage to your house and/or car? Where would you stand in terms of liability and insurance cover?

As I said, unless I absolutely knew what I was doing, I would not take this risk. Especially after spending a lot of £$€ on a car.

 

[alohart]

Never done this kind of work in my life..and very close to paying $300 - $500 for the install..however I wanted to give it shot here if I can do it myself..with less stress..

That installation estimate seems way high unless there's something significant that needs to be done.

I consulted with local electrician though ..i showed them the pics above. He told me just connect L1 and L2 and black and white one - copper one in the center...

Unless he's the electrician that quoted $300-$500 for the installation, why not hire him to perform the installation? But he's correct. The electrical connections required are very basic. You've posted a photo of the 3 wires that he described.

Lastly, the electrician told me i should get disconnect box just in case there is something wrong with the charger to prevent to blow the entire fuse box..

As I33t stated, the circuit breaker for the EVSE circuit protects the circuit and main panel from damage should a problem with your EVSE occur. No additional disconnect is needed. However, like I33t, I installed a disconnect next to my EVSE so that I could power it on only when it's charging. Our electricity rates are high, and an EVSE consumes a small amount of electricity at all times, so I wanted to be able to turn it off to save electricity. A disconnect for my 20 amp circuit was inexpensive. However, a 50 amp disconnect could cost considerably more.

 

[Sparky]

Standby power draw for the ClipperCreek HGS-40 is 2watts. Two months worth is like leaving 100 watt bulb on for 24 hours.

 

[Blue20]

The disconnect is required by code. It is intended for servicing. NEC has specifications on the location of the disconnect.

You may want to get a few books from the library to read up on wiring before the installation. If after reading you still have doubt, get an electrician!

 

[jadnashuanh]

My EVSE is in my garage along with the main panel that feeds it. It was installed by a licensed electrician and passed the local inspection without a local shutoff. I consider it similar to something like your electric stove or dryer, neither of which require a local shutoff. My inspector agreed. Something like a furnace, a/c unit, etc., do require a local shutoff.

Installation is easy, but like anything else, if you're not comfortable doing it, hire someone who is. With a 50A circuit, you could use up to a 40A EVSE, either hardwired, or install an appropriate receptacle in the electrical box, then just plug it in. Most all of the devices come either with a pigtail to hardwire, or optionally, with a plug on it. Just make sure you match the type of plug for both ends.

 

[Blue20]

Stove plug (NEMA 10-50) and dryer plug are considered as a disconnect.

 

[i3Alan]

I would put an 50A 240V outlet over your already mounted wall box. Then I would by a matching 50A 240V pigtail to attach to the EVSE and plug that into the outlet. Probably can find a 1' or so long pigtail. These outlets come with or without a neutral connection, and you want the one without.

This stuff is really easy to install. If you can handle a 120V wiring, then this is the same except, the wires are a bit thicker, and you want to be extra careful that the circuit breaker is OFF when you are working, as 240 can kill you, while 120 will only scare the crap out of you.

If you don't feel like doing this yourself, then hire a local handyman/woman with any 240V experience, such as changing out an electric water heater (most people in this line of work do this all the time). This should cost no more than $100, plus the outlet, outlet cover, and pigtail. Those parts should be under $40 total from Lowes or Home Depot or Ace, etc. This is a 10 minute job!

 

[brorob]

I would put an 50A 240V outlet over your already mounted wall box. Then I would by a matching 50A 240V pigtail to attach to the EVSE and plug that into the outlet. Probably can find a 1' or so long pigtail. These outlets come with or without a neutral connection, and you want the one without.

I would agree that this is a good option for a disconnect but make sure your EVSE is designed for plug style installation vs. hard wired. Some are designed for either. You'll need to factor in the cost of the NEMA outlet and plug too, may have been something the electrician was considering in the quote for the setup.

If you decide to do this yourself, I'd recommend this inexpensive tool too. This is a great safety check device to make sure your breaker is marked correctly and there truly is no power going to the wires when the breaker is turned off. There are other models of this tool available too (and other resellers). This tool glows and beeps when it detects voltage. I have one and it's been an invaluable tool for home electrical projects.

http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452450166&sr=8-1&keywords=Fluke+power+pen

I'd say only do this if your comfortable though. It's fairly easy work if your careful and don't make an obvious mistake like switching neutral and positive connections. One thing I would verify first is the guage of the wires in your existing outlet box. I believe 50 amps calls for 6 guage wires.

 

[i3Alan]

I would put an 50A 240V outlet over your already mounted wall box. Then I would by a matching 50A 240V pigtail to attach to the EVSE and plug that into the outlet. Probably can find a 1' or so long pigtail. These outlets come with or without a neutral connection, and you want the one without.

I would agree that this is a good option for a disconnect but make sure your EVSE is designed for plug style installation vs. hard wired. Some are designed for either. You'll need to factor in the cost of the NEMA outlet and plug too, may have been something the electrician was considering in the quote for the setup.

The Clipper Creek unit I have is available with either a 3' flex conduit pig tail for hard wiring, or a 1' pig tail with a couple of different plug options. I wanted a couple feet so I ordered the hardwired version and added a plug to the end. Easy! The plug, and the matching outlet, wall box to put the outlet in, and a cover plate cost me about $40 for all four parts from Home Depot. I just cut a hole in the drywall and used the 240V line that was running to the dryer outlet on the other side of the wall that was about a foot lower then where I put my new outlet. The 240V line was cut, and both ends were properly stripped and connected together to the new outlet inside the wall box. The line now runs to both outlets, but nothing is plugged in on the dryer side. Either side is safe to use, but only one at a time. Been trouble free since Aug, 2014.

 

[elasticpurejoy]

Here in Philadelphia it is code to have a remote disconnect switch located by the entry door. This is required when installing curb side charging in order to apply for the reserved EV on street parking.
To disconnect all power to the charger is as simple as switching a light switch on the wall.