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If I recall correctly, regen in the i3 is about 87% efficient - which is fairly typical for EVs. Obviously, coasting to a stop is 13% more efficient than that - which doesn't seem like very low hanging fruit for a lower range pack in practice without pissing a lot of people off. The non-LRR...

Under $20 for a "brake fluid tester" that dips into the fluid in the reservoir. (Hygrometer may not be the correct term for it, as that appears to relate to gasses not fluids.)

The issue as others have recounted is that BMW has refused to assist with assigning a new IMEI - even for those with active Connected service. Have they changed that policy? That's big news if they have, and as you said, makes this super easy to do.

Have you considered the resistive heater as a cause? That is something that Wisely Automotive has noted as a potential fault cause as it confuses the situation with heat pump equipped cars. E.g., on low demand where only the heat pump is engaged, heat and driving appear to be normal with no...

Hygrometer testing is the key, not time, though unlike BMW's ridiculous recommendation for oil changes, not as far off the mark. I test mine annually here, and after 5 years it has yet to register any water content at all or hint at any problems with the system, but while we get a lot of rain...

Also should note that I have both the WiFi and Bluetooth Veepeak adapters, and wifi was more of a pain to deal with logistically for connection while driving if using one's main phone is the goal, as that messes with streaming ability with no internet connection. Bluetooth avoids that issue when...

DeepOBD and performance apps like Torque do provide live information from the dongle while driving. While it could be useful for diagnosis, I couldn't find any reason to integrate it as any type of regular display. I believe the problem with these triggering the alarm is probably from a...

I think BMW simply realized the error of their compromise on the I01 between pressures, handling, comfort, and safety. The early spec was simply too soft, and though I have not seen much mention of it lately, a lot of people were having pothole wheel damage result from it. The potential for...

The biggest problem with fouled catalytic converters is structural failure of the mesh. It can literally fall to pieces within the housing and plug up the exhaust, leaving the REx unable to start or to continue operating. Regarding economy, under controlled testing at 65F, with no AC/heat use...

I've thought about going the Jerry Can route myself for a more permanent install. A properly made one is not cheap, but being welded mild steel, they are more durable than anything else that could fit the frunk if it gets damaged. That's obviously no guarantee of being leak free after impact...

If you read/watch more of the full story, the driver was allegedly unable to turn it off or take it out of drive. Obviously, with the i3, if you touch the brake, the computer steps in to cut off power to the motor, but on every other car I have owned (way too many at this point), the option to...

The QuaTrac Pro is a winter weather only tire, but currently just $79 each! Awesome deal. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Vredestein&tireModel=Quatrac+Pro&partnum=145WR0QTPXL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

I suspect BMW built this in as a feature to appease CA law (along with the ridiculous gas tank size). I'd guess it is intended to keep people from trying to game errors out of the system immediately before testing.

You may find this one an interesting exception to that! It brings up a very valid concern about 100% drive by wire controls. If the throttle input sticks, and the car won't shut off, options are very limited with no physical disconnect at hand.

Had a Ford Flex and 2002 Miata. Thought I would never sell both of them. I only miss the Miata 4-5 months per year, and I haven't missed the Flex at all since selling it last year now that I have a utility trailer figured out for the i3. But I am now kinda hosed if we get any serious snow and I...

While battery chemistry itself is to some degree responsible, power density tends to be the more significant factor. I.e., because the 60Ah cars must use 2x the capacity of the cells in the car vs a 120Ah one, they are essentially getting cycled twice as often - which is a major driver of decay...

Pretty sure it's just a power supply issue. HDDs draw too much, but SSDs usually don't. If I recall correctly, the USB port is rated for 1.5Amps, so an alternate power supply would be needed for anything needing more than that.

I have not tried this with the i3, but a trick I used years ago for this sort of thing was to use sequential numbering of tracks as the first character.

I hope (and think) we will eventually get to a point where packaging constraints are less of a constraint on range. BMW and Samsung essentially doubled the density of the early pack by production end to provide what I consider a minimum but adequately useable range for modern EVs. New cells are...

I don't see upgrades ever being affordable on new packs for anybody vs. just replacing the car unless they choose to DIY the installation. Obviously, retrofitting pre-owned is more cost effective - if available, but still likely not worth the money unless the original pack is actually failing.