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Start looking at the NCAP/ADAC crash test. https://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrolet/Bolt/2019/safety/ The structure of the bolt collapses and you got intrusion into the passenger space https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uivh0yegFk vs. https://www.carcomplaints.com/BMW/i3/2017/safety/...

Like I said it's a recommendation. Not a rule, So you are not the average driver the recommendation had in mind. The initial thread poster is running down a tire after 15k miles - you haven't even driven that far. What you drive in a year I drive in two months. At your rate I wouldn't do a...

cool. where did you get that latch from?

In the EU the base weight of the vehicle is listed - means without any options. That means the absolute stripped base vehicle. Very few vehicles ever get delivered that way. But the same is true for the Bolt (or any other vehicle). It's probably heavier then listed. My Chevy Van is 600lbs...

thanks for the design explanation. I'm not sure if the i3 would have felt more closed when you would have moved closer to the windshield. I love the open feel as well. I got more space as a driver then in my Chevy Van - which is 21 feet long :P but

Might be good idea to get a recall going :P So everyone I talked to - which had that weighted alignment done - improved their tire wear. The standard two wheel alignment check does nothing for the i3. You need 4 wheel - corner weighted, alignment. The dealer needs to put in a few hundred...

Sounds like you got an alignment/suspension problem, which is eating the tires -one tire should never wear more then the others. Get the car a 4 wheel WEIGHTED alignment. Your BMW dealer does that, or a really high end tires places. So they weigh all 4 corners of the car and get it...

what is you miles/kwh ? My car gets 30k out of the rear tires at 4miles/kwh. The front tires where changed @36k miles You can change them separate from each other. They are different sizes anyhow - so doesn't matter if you only change rear or front. I always only change the axel which is worn...

I've own / owned both cars :mrgreen: so I that where is my inspiration is coming from Here is another good one: By moving the whole dash, pedals etc. forward (left in this picture )That's my improvement idea. you see - the dash is pocking in from the A-Pillar / Column about a hand length -...

just put in ethanol free fuel - then gasoline is a lot longer long term stable. The ethanol is pretty hygroscopic - attracts water out of air and then it starts breaking down. But the i3 tank is very tight system, I mean - there is almost no air getting in (small tank) Usually when you store...

I guess that the tongue weight is also relates to ripping the hitch from the frame. Not only capacity for the drivetrain. More often then not - frames get bent and attachment points get overloaded - then the actually suspension/ engine being damaged. Suspension is are usually oversized by a...

With the driver/passenger further forward, there would have been more space for a thicker seat. I miss plush seats in my i3. In new BMW in general, there are all kind of sporty these days. You could have reduce the bulk of the B-Pillar, when there would be no seat belt to be attached. Might...

As a firefighter cutting people out of "safe" vehicles I have to disagree with that. When I see a car that has a lot of good ratings but doesn't perform well when it really counts. I'm doubting the question the science is asking. Does static roof strength really translate into dynamic...

What I wonder - the dashboard sticks out quite far in the passenger compartment. Wonder if you could have moved the passenger and driver forward - since this is not a ICE vehicle you don't need a firewall at the end of the windshield - rather remove the almost useless funk and give the...

Two things I mentioned before: I'm assuming that the i3 does much better in real world crashes then the bolt - from pictures from junked cars. Saw multiple collapses passenger spaces in the bolt and none on the i3. You can roll the i3 down a hill side with 10 flips and the passenger compartment...

anytime a A/C system is opened usually the drier is replaced. When the drier in the i3 acts as filter - that's good information! So you only have to change the drier and the compressor, and can leave the inline filter out.

The drier may or may not filter debris, depending how it was designed. There a like a bunch of ways of drying refrigerant. Some of them are chemical binding and some of them work with gravity to leave the moisture in the bottom. Some driers are in the high side and some are on the low pressure...

I've seen someone at a meeting having this enabled. Instead of only the passenger - the drivers side tilted down at the same time. Both had been disabled and enabled with the switch in the door. Didn't see it in Bimmercode when I looked. So must be expert wizardry.

The dealership would replace ALL A/C components and through that method getting rid of all potential debris in the system. Guess that's why in the case of an i3 you see A/C repair bills in the 5 digit range. A debris filter would go before the compressor in the loop, the Accumulator / Receiver...

That is what you usually do on A/C job with a blown compressor. I've done many compressors on other cars, and you always put in a filter. Because that old compressor might have left metal filings in the system. You don't want have that stuff messing up your new compressor. For an i3 I have...