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As already said, I don't think that's advisable, given the capacity of the 12V battery. Although nobody here (as far as I'm aware) has a complete understanding of exactly what can trigger the car's control modules to "wake up" and start up the DC-DC converter, it's quite likely that putting a...

In my opinion, the best solution is to wire it into the same circuit that supplies the 12V outlets in the car. This makes sense because that circuit is live whenever the main traction battery is powering the car, and for approximately 13 minutes after the car is turned off, and is also live for...

The car's built-in charge controller is the component that determines how much current is taken from the mains. It won't matter if the charge point is capable of delivering 100 Amps - the car will take no more than the maximum that it is set to take. However, as the OP has hinted, there is an...

For UK models, it should be relatively easy - the whole thing just unbolts (and has to, because you need to do that to get to the cabin air filters). I would expect the same to be true of LHD models, but as I don't have one of those, I don't know.

And also, bear in mind that the DC-DC converter probably isn't designed to run at 100% capacity all the time - components like that usually are not. It probably makes sense to keep your max load well below its full capacity, or simply run a petrol generator if you need more. The cost of...

I've never seen a wiring diagram that shows that level of detail. That fuse is easy to access and check, but I doubt that a fuse would cause just locking to not operate but leave unlocking operative.

Sorry to have to say it, but retrofitting 1, 3 or 4 would be complex - probably not worth the effort. I looked at 3 (and have the necessary part) but wiring and coding is not going to be easy, and I've shelved the project (probably indefinitely). 2 might be easy enough - I've never checked.

The problem is that, although there's reason to believe that the charging mechanism has not changed significantly over the years, what "the book" says varies depending on when it was printed. As far as I can see, my Owner's Manual (English ID5 VI/21) doesn't make either of those recommendations.

Same here - mine will definitely power-on the DC-DC converter just with the door being opened, though the rules seem to be quite complex (e.g. I *think* if the battery voltage is above a certain voltage threshold it won't turn on). It's another aspect of the car - like the detailed charging...

It depends where you are. In many countries you cannot legally turn off the pedestrian warning sound - it is after all there for the benefit of pedestrians, and not for the benefit of the driver. If you are in a territory where it is a mandatory requirement, there will be no option within...

I don't know specifically about California, but as I understand it the general rule is that a BMW main dealer will not code a secondhand key to work on your car. They will only code a new one. There has been a fair bit of speculation on the various forums about whether it is even possible to...

When you think about it, this is BMW shooting themselves in the foot, isn't it? One of the worst criticisms of EVs in general is that they become scrap once the factory-fitted battery reaches end-of-life. EVs are very much at the centre of their future range, but BMW seem to be determined to...

The rationale behind the phrase "keyless entry" is that you don't actually have to do anything with the key to be able to open the door. Without the "keyless entry" option, you have to do something with the key (i.e. press a button). The reason why I try to avoid using the words "Comfort...

As already said, I'm pretty sure (from information posted on another forum) that the behaviour of the fob is dependent on whether your car has the keyless entry option. My car does not - hence it does not need to have a motion-sensing function.

I don't *think* you can put i3s rears on the front of either. From what I can recall (and photos seen on another group) you're likely to get contact between something on the suspension (part of the coilspring?) and the sidewall of the tyre. IIRC you may be able to use spacers to overcome this...

Apologies - I failed to notice that you already have the car! I thought you were looking to buy one. The problem with a generator is that it would be tediously slow, unless you have a huge rig that fills the whole of the back of the car. A typical "slow" mains charger runs at 32A, and you need...

Does your car have keyless entry? I've just tested my car (build date September 2021) and it doesn't seem to have motion detection in the key, unless it's very sensitive. To test, I put the key in the arm rest, switched the car off and then left the car unlocked for 15 minutes. Then tiptoed...

I suspect that if your circumstances are such that you couldn't be sure about length of journey, a better bet would be a true hybrid, rather than a "range extender" of any sort. In my part of the world, a "typical" battery-only EV user will charge overnight at home and very rarely come close...

No - not economically viable. The cost would be excessive. You would have to pay more than the vehicle is worth.

Is it fair to assume that the "service center" is a BMW main dealer? It sounds a little bit confused, because "Only Electric Drive Possible" suggests that the problem is with the REx engine, rather than the HV battery. I don't know what the situation at BMW main dealers is like in the US, but I...