Recent content by Ollie

How about the black push button lever that is inside the handle of our OEM chargers. Yeah, don't drop them or the tits break off the end. I tried scanning a good one but the black plastic gives my scanner fits.

OK I'm confused. My commercial charger rate, last I used it was $.48 (I heard it went to $.52), and my home rate is $.0879. I take it this the same sort of thing as like living in Texas were fuel might be $2.50 a gallon and I pay $3.99. As far as HSC. I just programed the #8 button on my dash...

And in what movie was Tangerine Dreams music used? Here's a clue - James Caan. No using Google now. Thief (1981)

I have two chargers with broken latches. They both work fine. You just have to remember to press the thumb button to cut the power before separation. I have a 3d printer to make new latches if I could find the g code program for it or I'm going to buy a scanner and go that route

Has anyone found a 3d print file for the rocker switch portion of our stock I3 (L1) chargers? The black button that when pressed unclips the charger handle from the vehicle? I have two functional chargers now with the front hook broken off. Yes, they work fine. You just have to remember to...

Ran in to this myself. Did everything, danced a little jig, held my tongue just right, tried singing like a fat lady. Even call the charger company. It was the handshake between the charger and the car. Lift up on the chargers handle a skoosh and nudge lightly forward. Ta da

There are a **** ton of opinion's on this and it seems very few experts. For instance, I've been around long enough to have heard (for decades) the old tale that you can't put a battery on concrete (cement) or it will drain the battery dead. Anybody want to guess??? Yup, ding, ding, ding. All...

Run both vin numbers through Realoem.com and look at some of the parts lists. Compare part numbers of both models and see if they share the same equipment/part number. Not a perfect solution, but a start.

They use the term "Fire Brigade". Not a normal NA term. I'd say definitely not USA.

I think the closest a car ever came to a removal from the road recall would have to be in the 1970's. That vehicle would have been the Ford Pinto. There were many people killed because of collision/fire safety issues. Lots of lawsuits. I also want to say I remember something about (don't quote...

You can check part numbers for mini's @ Realoem.com Check for different models and see if they are the same part number.

Whew! .03 cents a mile is a bit of a difference. Apparently the news agency I listened to was way off base. Now I can go back and recompute. That seems to be just about a wash. $5.00 for 32 miles in an ICE mini compared to $5.12 in my I3 on a 4.0 average per kwh. Unless you can do at home...

Maybe I went to far in my diatribe. My recommendation (reading between this individuals lines) is to not go with an EV, and now with the old governor newsome going with a .30 cents a mile tax plan on ev's that he signed (test my ass). Washington will follow suit quite quickly. It makes an EV a...

We use Electrify America (EA). We are in the same state of Wa. On our normal long distance overnite trips we find a walmart store with chargers at the end location. Make the run, go shop in the store for what we need, and let the car charge to 80%. Last was .48 to .53 cents kwh. (Our area home...

Since you say "18 years" ask if you have a traffic class/deferment option. Don't know your system and how it can affect you insurance rates. You can also try the best story a judge has ever heard or filibuster with such BS they throw you out. I don't recommend the last one.